A/T transmission removal 2001 - Page 2 - Nissan Xterra Forum
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#11 Old 02-20-2013, 10:58 AM
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First mark front and rear of each torsion bar - they should only go in front to front.
  • Put the front end of the truck up on jack stands
  • remove the wheels to take some weight off the fr. suspension
  • take the top nut off the adjuster screws (above the cross member)
  • loosen the nuts/bolts from the splined holder end on the lower a-arm
  • remove the adjuster bolt all the way - this will drop the front suspension to the lower bump stops. or you can block the a-arms up and the adjuster bolt will be easier to get out from the weight being off the t-bar the whole time.
  • wrestle the torsion bar out of the adjuster arm in the cross member then out of the holder on the a-arm.


depending on the amount of corrosion on the vehicle you'll probably want to soak both ends in a penetration oil or fluid like 50/50 acetone/atf. These can be stuck in both ends pretty tight.

And yes the crossover pipe has to come out of the car too. I tried to wrestle mine out without it and i might have been able to do it eventually but the trans is damn heavy and it was just MUCH simpler to take the exhaust down.

*Note: All posts I make on this site are fictional for entertainment purposes only. They are not legal advice, actual events, equipment owned or actual locations. If it bothers you, quit being so fragile.
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#12 Old 02-20-2013, 11:25 AM
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Thanks...

I tell ya, the transmission comes out of a front wheel drive Accord and a Ferrari 355 MUCH easier than this...
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#13 Old 02-20-2013, 11:31 AM
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When doing any maintenance work on this truck I've been using anti-sieze compounds when everything gets reassembled, and when you don't have to wrestle with the corrosion its really not that bad.

*Note: All posts I make on this site are fictional for entertainment purposes only. They are not legal advice, actual events, equipment owned or actual locations. If it bothers you, quit being so fragile.
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#14 Old 02-20-2013, 11:33 AM
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just be thankful there arent any requisite specialty tools, like spline/triple square drivers like with the damn VAG cars.

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#15 Old 02-20-2013, 02:46 PM
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http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2001_Xterra/su.pdf

Are these Factory Service manuals for real? They are nearly useless in their lack of detail. Just looking at the section for the T-bars and it's barely more than unbolt the T-bar and take it out.
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#16 Old 02-21-2013, 10:10 AM
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how you coming along?

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#17 Old 02-21-2013, 10:21 AM
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We got the SOB out last night finally. Holy mother of mary. The only thing we haven't removed on the vehicle to get this out is the roof rack and the rear axle. LOL.

I'd heard and read about the crank sensor somewhere on the bell housing but didn't find it until dropping the transmission carefully and something wasn't giving. Luckily saw it before we broke anything. Getting that bugger off took another hour, finally sticking my arm up from underneath with a 10mm ratchet and getting the stinking bolt out.

The two items I'm surprised noone has written up a DIY on this forum is transmission removal and cat replacement, the two items I desperately needed.

Now that I have the trans out, I'll be trying to get a new RMS in without damaging it and swapping out the cats.

Thanks for all the help so far. Just a quick question though, there's no timing involved between the flex plate and the torque convertor correct? Bolt the 4 bolts up any orientation? I thought I'd read somewhere about marking it but I couldnt see why I didn't.
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#18 Old 02-21-2013, 10:26 AM
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congrats!

you know, i cant remember off the top of my head if there is a clocking between the flex plate and tq converter. I want to say the spacing is such that it will go together either the way it came off or 180* opposite but I'm really not sure.

I think you should have marked it because the flex plate and the tq converter are balanced and putting it back in another orientation throws the balance off.

DO NOT reuse the bolts between the flex plate and torque converter. They are stretch bolts and will back out if reused. Ask me and my 2nd trans removal how I know.

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#19 Old 02-21-2013, 12:17 PM
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OK, well that's definitely good info about the bolts. We will definitely get some. I think I can figure out how they were oriented as I haven't really rotated anything since removal so I should be able to get them reclocked.
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#20 Old 02-24-2013, 09:00 PM
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Well after all this it doesn't look like the rear main seal was leaking. The U-shaped gasket between the o-ring bracket and the oil pan is leaking. So now I'm wondering if I just replace this gasket and put some sealer on it and call it done or pull the whole oil pan. The rest of the oil pan looks dry and it looks like a nightmare to get out (like everything else on this vehicle).
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