AC 3" lift: can't adjust T-bars further

[CanX]

I've had the AC 3" lift since 09 with no complaints save one: the leafs never settled so I have a 5 degree forward rake. Apparently this is normal, but I want to level it out.

My regular shop says there's nothing left to adjust on the t-bars. Isn't there normally 1.5 inches of t-bar play (PML) in addition to aftermarket lift? It doesn't sound right.

[intender]

Its not possible to get a level truck with the lift. With a pml you can end up mostly level with shackles in the back and uca up front and adjusting the torsion bars. If you want your truck level get rid of the add a leaf and get some shackles. The uca up front didnt give you the lift, they are angled different from stock to allow you to adjust the torsion bars more to get extra lift in the front.

[miskywhisky]

You need to reindex the bars, theres a how to for it. You just better have the ultra low bumpstops in or it will ride like crap.

[robcarync]

Look at my signature...there is a how to for re indexing the t bars.

You have to make sure you have bump stop room though! Even if you have low profile bump stops, you may be out of alignment if you get too close to them!

If you have larger openings in the bump stops than 1/2" you need to reindex to get the extra height!

let me know if you have any more questions

[M3C.CA]

Re-indexing can be.... fun.

I had a hell of a time freeing the torsion bars from their anchors on either end. Ended up using a nail puller as a wedge between the torsion bar anchor (front end) and the lower control arm. Few whacks with the BFH and they popped out. For that reason 'd recommend completely removing your torsion bars and loading up the splines on both ends with anti-seize, it will make your life a lot easier down the road.

[intender]

Originally Posted by M3C.CA

Re-indexing can be.... fun.
For that reason 'd recommend completely removing your torsion bars and loading up the splines on both ends with anti-seize, it will make your life a lot easier down the road.

I did that on mine when I reindexed and I guess I used too much. I ended up not getting one of them set right and had to pull it out and turn it a couple of teeth. The anti seize sealed the end and created suction and made it all put impossible to get the thing back out.

[CanX]

Originally Posted by robcarync

Look at my signature...there is a how to for re indexing the t bars.

Yup, my ride looks just like yours in the 'before' photo with the front rake. Now I understand why the shop thought they couldn't lift it.

About how long does this take, including re-adjustment if you don't get the right spline?

My only concern now: the cross member with the adjusters in it took a brutal hit on a trail this summer and is twisted. I'll need to see if the adjusters were affected by the warping.

[xcrazy]

Give us a measurement up front, right at the middle of the tire{hub} to your wheel well. I also have a 3 inch lift and 32s.I've had mine up to 38 inches with that measuring spot.I have the sway away TBs.Your Tbars could be tired also.Could get some newer stockers,or go aftermarket.Those adjuster bolts and bits and pieces can wear out also.I had my TBar spin through my adjuster. The female splines were worn away.I was on the trail.Not good.Things to consider.

[robcarync]

Measure at the bottom of the seam by the doors...the wheel wells by design are not necessarily on the exact same level....the straight seam below the front andback doors is a better place to measure because you know the truck is level when the front seam height is the same as the rear seam height.

It only took me a few hours to get them back in and lifted higher. Maybe 4 hours without really understanding what was going on at first...including the readjustment. I later re did them again to better position the lifters and was able to get both sides done in about 1.5 hours once I had the experience...but I got the right spline first try.

The ANNOYING part was the actual adjusting of the bolt and adjuster. Fine thread bolt takes forever to twist in only to find that you were one tooth out. AND, one sides adjustment affects the other, so don't adjust to a measurement until both bars are back in and the adjusters cranked semi-close to the final adjustment.

The nice thing is that you are not really doing anything that can give you down time...If all else fails you can install them at a lower tooth setting and just drive with a crooked posture in an emergency until you get to try again.

For reference, once you move the adjuster, you can only rotate the bar so far before the bolt is not long enough to reach the top of the cross member. I found the perfect spot to be ONE spline tooth closer than the maximum amount you could twist. First time I put it at the farthest setting while still getting the nut on the bolt, and found that I ran out of bump stop travel and my adjusters were not properly tucked into the cross member...one tooth closer did the trick.

Also, when reinstalling the torsion bars into the anchor, take the hammer and make sure the bar is correctly seated into the LCA anchor...and the adjuster. Just make sure all mounts are securely fastened.

[intender]

Which lift kit did you get. Is it the add a leaf, shackle, or revolvers. Only way you are getting it level is with the shackle kit. add a leaf will give you about 2 inch rake, revolver kit will give you 2.75. Did you get the full kit with the torsion bars or do you still have stock torsions. if they are stock, they can be worn out and you will again not get the full front lift.

Before you touch any of it have you checked the bumpstop gap up front. Do not go under .5 gap.