Can some one please tell me which tube on the heater core is the inlet and which one is the outlet my previous mechanic connectedthe2 line together .
I saw thee thread about how to fix the broken tube on the heater core and I'm going to try fix it so can finally get heat
Thanks for the input
I couldnt tell you which one is which, but it shouldnt matter. if you are using the factory hoses the hoses should reach the barbs better for the correct ones length wise. A heater core is basically just a small radiator with a fan that blows across it to heat you car. as long as coolant in moving through it, it will work.
i have a 2000 model and just replaced the valvecover gaskets and intake plenum gasket. I had to cut the 2 water hoses in the back to remove them.
during reinstalling I broke off the top heater core hose attanchment on the firewall. In reading the posts..i do not want to have to do the heater core replacement. Has any one got the hose deminsions, so I can find some kind of repair fot this? my thoughts were inserting an male adapter with sealent, then reattach the hose..
Any thoughts..This is my first post..please help.Chef mike
I went to Home Depot and bought a 1/4 in x2 in brass pipe fitting. What I'm planning to do is grind the threads on on end so it can fit snugly into the heater core and then seal it with a putty, which I picked up at advance auto parts for like 5 bucks. Once this putty hardens it creates a water tight seal around anything you apply it to, hope this helps
Plastic and metal have different coefficients of thermal expansion. It may create a problem between the metal and the plastic. It may make a water tight seal but the fact that the two materials expand at different rates it may cause the putty to crack if the putty isn't flexible enough. Just my two cents though.
Been running w/ my HC bypassed for a month now w/ $ pretty tight. Its winter so I decided to rig something up and picked up some 1/2" OD copper and shoved it into the upper inlet. Then I used that GOOP stuff. I use this crap on anything broken and its good when cured! Problem is I just read that the cured temp rating is maxed at 150 degrees so now im screwed!!! Im not even going to try and install the hose over this because if it fails, im going to have coolant spewing inside the cab. I think tomorrow ill remove it and clean it as best I can and re-do the fix with epoxy or replace the copper with PVC and use that PVC cement.
@Snickerdoodle... nice DIY on the HC replacement. It shows what to deal with if I tackle removing the dash.
I busted some of the plastic off the ends of one of the lines when I disconnected them to do my BL. I ended up just cleaning the plastic and the inside of the line really well and ran some RTV around the plastic tube and shoved the line back on and clamped it up. It's been like this for about 6 months now and no problems. I did have to remove the rubber grommet to be able to fit the line and clamp onto the plastic further though.
The tip to getting those hoses off without busting the core is to use a razor blade and cut the Hose and split it off.
Although its too late here maybe this advice can be spread.
Are you sure there is not enough Heatercore nipple left to shove a hose on it? Mine broke when I did a BL and I was able to barely get a hose on it with a VERY tight clamp . Have not head troubles with it yet.