Carbon Canister / Evap Vent Control Valve Nightmare - Page 2 - Nissan Xterra Forum
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#11 Old 12-04-2012, 08:10 PM
MichaelC
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I bought mine on-line. The dealer wanted an arm and a leg, I think I paid $69, but I bought some other things for my other cars too, to save on the shipping.
Thank God you got yours off without stripping those bolts, that was the problem I had. Once the bolts broke off then I had to cut the valve off, grind down the broken stubbs and then drill and re-tap the holes for some other bolts. Either that or replace the whole canister at about $300 on-line $500 at a dealer.
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#12 Old 12-04-2012, 08:17 PM
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I just had the xterra in the shop last week because of the right manifold, It was leaking. It turned out that the manifold was cracked in several places. I had a shop do that one. Tomorrow it goes back in to get the muffler replaced. The original one is split open. I opted to get them to cut out the old muffler and then weld in a stainless magnaflow one instead of the galvanized crap that you buy for replacement.
It should cost me less than the replacement part and last another 10 years... oh and sound better too!
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#13 Old 12-06-2012, 10:31 AM
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Garage
im putting headers in shortly. my right manifold cracked and could kick mydelf for not putting headers in then

LIFE LESSON ONE=DONT SWEAT THE PETTY THINGS AND DONT PET THE SWEATY THINGS
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#14 Old 12-06-2012, 10:40 AM
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I never even considered headers, there's just about enough room for a small rodent in there... You might get a bit more sadly needed horsepower.
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#15 Old 09-09-2013, 02:07 PM
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I got the Vent Control Valve code same as you with the 0455 code.

I'm trying to find the valve online, so far Autozne has a "canister vent valve solenoid" ebay has the vent control valve nissan P/N 14935-5M00B which I assume is correct.

Is this aftermarket one good? http://www.1aauto.com/1A/engine-and-...MX00027/366691

Thanks
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#16 Old 09-09-2013, 05:18 PM
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Evap control valve

Looks ok to me... they are probably all made in China anyway, like everything else
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#17 Old 09-10-2013, 11:48 AM
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I wonder if "•Includes new mounting hardware for complete installation" means that they know the stock bolts will break, I'm not trying to remove mine until I have the spare part in my hand...

Neither autozone or o'reilly have it in stock, I found one in CarQuest for 1/2 less! I'm going there to get it
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#18 Old 09-10-2013, 12:11 PM
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I didn't have any issue with the new bolts, the problem was that the old ones just broke off when I tried to remove them. Then I had a little stubby end of two bolts holding the valve in place, with no way of pulling it out except for drilling. To actually get at the bolts I had to get the old valve off/out of the canister and that was impossible with the bolt remnants still in place. The whole canister is plastic with just a bit of metal around where the bolts are. Heating it up with a torch was no good, considering the fact that the canister has been venting gas fumes for ten years into charcoal, I didn't consider heat an option. So I cut the old valve off carefully with a hack saw. I cut on either side of the valve separating the valve from the bolts. That way I could pull the valve out while the bolts were still in place. I thought this way I'd get another crack at attempting to rotate the bolts out with vise-grips. That proved to not work as the bolts just eventually broke off. Then all I did was grind down the bolt remnants and re-drill the bolt holes with a smaller size. Then tapped the holes for smaller bolts. Normally I'd go larger and get rid of the old rusted metal, but I wasn't sure how thick the metal inserts were. Also the valve doesn't require a lot of bolt strength as the valve sits in there tight without the bolts. I figured that the first valve lasted 10 years, I assume the next will last that long.
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#19 Old 09-10-2013, 12:26 PM
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It took me most of the day, messing with the canister. As long as you are not in a rush it was ok, if a little awkward. I obviously had to remove the whole canister as the space up under the back of the truck is tight and I couldn't deal with it up there, especially after the bolts broke off. The other issue was the wire connector on the valve, it took for ever to get it off without breaking it.
I understand why the dealership told me that if the bolts break they replace the whole canister, in retrospect I would have had it done in an hour that way. But I had time and didn't want to spend the $500.
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#20 Old 09-10-2013, 03:10 PM
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I'll take a crack at it on the weekend, maybe I'll take the whole canister out and change the valve in the work table, much easier, going to check that cable connection you mention..
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