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04 Xterra Build

11K views 95 replies 17 participants last post by  XterraJunky 
#1 · (Edited)
DONE

Tires & Wheels:
32x11.5r15 BFG KO2s
15" Cragar Soft 8s

Suspension:
3" front lift w/control arms
1.5" rear lift w/AAL
1.5" rear lift w/shackles
Rear sway bar removed
Low profile bump stops
30% stiffer torsion bars

Armor:
RCL Fab Custom front bumper
Hitch w/2" receiver and clevis shackle insert

Lighting:
2 LED Pod Lights
20" LED Light Bar
2 LED Flush Mount Reverse Lights

Steering:
Heavy duty TRAs, TRs, & balljoints
Heavy duty center link

Performance:
K&N Filter
Intake resonator delete
Magnaflow muffler w/2.5" pipes
NGK Premium spark plug wires

"Tech":
Alpine Stereo w/Bluetooth
10" Kicker Sub

Miscellaneous:
Side steps & mud-flaps removed
Plastics bedlined & roof rack painted
Headliner removed (kept falling down so I took it out)
Coverking seat covers
Weathertech cargo liner
Hi-Lift Mount roof rack


TO DO
CB radio + firestick
Winch
IAB (Idler Arm Brace)
DIY Snorkel
Rock sliders
Skid plates
Rear tire carrier
Rear air locker
SAS?!

To be continued...

Currently:


 
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#7 ·
Very Nice Start! Mine is the same color but an '01 and I was wondering how painted black rims would look on mine (I lack the visual imagination to picture it). I do like the look! Wish I could take off the site steps but some people (ahem, g/f, ahem) would complain of being able to get in and out. I guess being 6'2" I never give it a second thought.

I was going to mount a light bar on mine in the same spot, let's face it, the stock lighting of the Xterra is very poor. Where did you run your wires through to the interior? Any picture of your install of the lights and where you put the switch inside? Just looking for some ideas before I decide to go through with it.

Lastly, in regard to the airbox mod thing, any change in power, MPG, sound? Is it worth it or just get more of a growl?
 
#8 ·
Thank you! Yah I really like the look of black rims a lot. I'm around 6 ft too so it doesn't bother me either and (luckily) my gf got used to it over time haha :D

I'll get some picture of the light bar wiring when I get home later today, it would be a little hard to explain with no pictures. But you'll be happy to hear it is fairly simple, I'm no electrician and I figured it out pretty easily.

The intake mod claims to gain you about 5-10 HP (nothing really noticeable), but I have been getting more miles on each tank so my MPG went up for sure! Along with that there is a slightly deeper exhaust sound which I like.
The K&N Filter is definitely the heart of the mod though, after installing that is when I noticed the most difference.
Here's the DIY of the mod if you haven't seen it :
http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2192&highlight=intake+mod
 
#10 ·
You get any glare on your windshield or hood for the light bar being up top or is it back far enough you don't get that


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Since its up high, I've angled it so the beam goes right in front of the car. So no annoying glare on the hood at all!
 
#11 ·
Thank you! Yah I really like the look of black rims a lot. I'm around 6 ft too so it doesn't bother me either and (luckily) my gf got used to it over time haha :D

I'll get some picture of the light bar wiring when I get home later today, it would be a little hard to explain with no pictures. But you'll be happy to hear it is fairly simple, I'm no electrician and I figured it out pretty easily.

The intake mod claims to gain you about 5-10 HP (nothing really noticeable), but I have been getting more miles on each tank so my MPG went up for sure! Along with that there is a slightly deeper exhaust sound which I like.
The K&N Filter is definitely the heart of the mod though, after installing that is when I noticed the most difference.
Here's the DIY of the mod if you haven't seen it :
http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2192&highlight=intake+mod
Thank you so much for the pictures, like you said they get the point across much better. I think the positioning of your bar is perfect, high up and avoids the glare. I was contemplating between your position and the lower one before the air-damn but I think your spot has won hands down due to the glare issue alone.

I will be doing the airbox thing soon, just have to get my hands on those two plugs.

Perhaps the side rails will disappear off my truck some time at night when the g/f is sleeping... i will play the theft card (who in their right mind would steal those) or just tell her they must have fallen off due to age... I will think of something.

Thanks again for the pix as they definitely gave me a clearer picture and some ideas.
 
#12 ·
Thank you so much for the pictures, like you said they get the point across much better. I think the positioning of your bar is perfect, high up and avoids the glare. I was contemplating between your position and the lower one before the air-damn but I think your spot has won hands down due to the glare issue alone.

I will be doing the airbox thing soon, just have to get my hands on those two plugs.

Perhaps the side rails will disappear off my truck some time at night when the g/f is sleeping... i will play the theft card (who in their right mind would steal those) or just tell her they must have fallen off due to age... I will think of something.

Thanks again for the pix as they definitely gave me a clearer picture and some ideas.
No problem man! Happy I could help.

And you can find those plugs at somewhere like Ace Hardware, thats where I got mine.

Hahah whatever works! Have fun.
 
#14 ·
Nice going so far.
Just an observation,are your rear shocks mounted upside down?
 
#15 ·
Nice going so far.
Just an observation,are your rear shocks mounted upside down?
Thanks man! And I do not believe so, the "sleeves" on the shocks had drain holes for water to get out on the ends closest to the ground. So I'm pretty sure they were meant to be mounted that way.
 
#18 ·
Monotubes like the 5125 can go either way, IE: They work upside down too, etc.

The 5125 comes with added protection to run that way for example.

:D

BTW - WHICH 5125 did you get?

The 255/70 valving is probably what you'd have wanted...

and

What extended/compressed lengths did you go with?

If you have the part #, I can look it up: It would be 33-XXXXXX (33 dash six more digits).
 
#19 ·
BTW - WHICH 5125 did you get?

The 255/70 valving is probably what you'd have wanted...

and

What extended/compressed lengths did you go with?

If you have the part #, I can look it up: It would be 33-XXXXXX (33 dash six more digits).
The extended and compressed length is somewhere around 24" and 15". I'm not sure on the valving though lol so here's the part number: 33186542

I know they aren't giving me my maximum potential flex, but for what I do and my budget they work great!
 
#20 · (Edited)
The extended and compressed length is somewhere around 24" and 15". I'm not sure on the valving though lol so here's the part number: 33186542

I know they aren't giving me my maximum potential flex, but for what I do and my budget they work great!
Hmmm, well, the OEM shocks were 23" long...and, you replaced them with ~ 24" long shocks....not much improvement.

(An inch DOES make a noticeable difference, but is less dramatic an improvement compared to THREE inches etc)

Those ARE 255/70 valved , which is good.



You WOULD have been better off getting 33-185552 instead of 33-186542 though, as they still fit compressed, but, would extend to more like 26", 2" more than you have now. (For ~ the same price)

That would have improved you from 23" stock to 26", instead of only to 24"....with the same 255/70 valving, etc.


In fact, the one's you got are about the same size as the Calmini's you replaced because they were too short.

:(


On the plus side, the Calmini's were crappy twin tube and not state of the art monotubes, and, the Bils are going to ride and handle much better even if the wheel travel is not improved.
 
#21 ·
Really? I measured the shocks side by side when I took them out, it was a good 2-3" difference. Maybe the old ones were just really worn down.

Again, I'm happy with what I got. They do what I need them to do flex-wise and on road they ride a LOT better. Later on I'll probably upgrade to longer ones, but for now I'm happy with what I bought.
:D
 
#22 ·
Really? I measured the shocks side by side when I took them out, it was a good 2-3" difference. Maybe the old ones were just really worn down.

Again, I'm happy with what I got. They do what I need them to do flex-wise and on road they ride a LOT better. Later on I'll probably upgrade to longer ones, but for now I'm happy with what I bought.
:D
Wow.

The Calmini's lift shocks would have to be SHORTER than stock for there to be that much difference!

:D

Maybe they went even skimpier, but, yeah, it could be they were so shot after a few miles, the piston could not extend anymore, etc?

So, no matter what, you are better of than with the crapminis or OEM shocks...so, that IS progress at least.

:D

If you raise the lower mounts up farther from the rocks, you can get more droop from the same shocks...food for thought.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Hmm might have to look into that...any DIY write ups on the best way to do it?

Thanks for the input!
Darlington's UB Skidderz replaced the lower leaf pad/shock mount with a higher mount point.

If you can find a set, that's probably the easiest way. (Don't think they are in current production)



What they look like.



Fabbing a set would not be that hard if you know/are a machinist, etc.


When I relocated my mounts, I put the lowers right on the axle itself where the sway mounts were.

>:D




Lower mounts on axle where rear sway brackets used to mount. - Note OLD (yeller) set of unused UB Skidderz still used as leaf pack plates but not as shock mounts.
 
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