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2000 Nissan Xterra engine stopped while driving...

21K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  gunho 
#1 ·
All great stories start this way... So there I was...

Ok. I have to admit. The timing belt needs to be changed. I'm bad about not doing all of the proper maintenance when it comes to the timing belt. That being said...

So, I leave the house for a trip to work, which is about 12 miles. I drove about a mile, and stopped at my regular gas station. I put about $20 worth of premium in the tank, and headed on. I got about 7 miles into the trip, and at 70MPH, the engine stopped running. When I say it stopped, I mean it did not sputter that I could tell, it did not backfire, I looked down and the RPM's were at zero. I managed to get across 4 lanes of traffic to get to the shoulder of the road. When I got there, I cranked the starter. The engine cranked, but no start. Had it towed to my building, where I put it in the garage. Here's what I have checked.

Battery terminals have been cleaned, battery has been charged.
.1 ohm of resistance from the Neg bat terminal to any metal body part in the truck. I'd say it's grounded fine.
I can hear the Fuel Pump pressurize when I turn the key on.
I have checked all the fuses under the dash, and under the hood, including fusible links. All were still good.
Took the distributor cap off, and had a buddy verify that it was turning. I have NO idea how far it's supposed to turn with each second of cranking, but he verified that it did turn. As I understand, this should mean that the timing belt is still good. Not quite sure on the stripped belt teeth issue.
When the key is in the ignition, the door opening causes the chime to go off. Don't ask me, but I read that somewhere if the chime does not work, no start.
I removed the air cleaner hose just before the Throttle Body, and sprayed some starter fluid in. Probably 1-2 seconds of spray. Tried to start it. No joy. Dunno if this is still an accepted test method with a fuel injected vehicle, but did not experience it trying to start any differently.

From that, here are my questions...
How fast does the distributor move? If I crank the engine for a few seconds, are we talking 1-2 revolutions, or are we talking 10? is it possible that the cap is turning but the shaft is broken and I'm just seeing the friction move it?

I checked for engine codes, and I don't get any. Is this odd? If it wasn't turning the distributor, wouldn't I get spark errors on all cylinders?

If it's water in the tank, would it just have taken a little bit for it to come out of suspension and settle at the bottom of the tank? How the hell do I check for that, and how do I correct it?!?!

Guys, I am new to the forum, but not new to the Xterra. We bought two in 2000, and I love mine. It's not given me any trouble until now. If we can get it ressurected, I will promise, PROMISE to change the timing belt, and hell, I'll even do new plugs and wires. I am at a loss, and would rather ask the pros than to beat my head against the wall guessing. Any ideas? Thanks.

-Sky
 
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#2 ·
Ok, more intel on the problem. Checked the spark by pulling the number three plug and laying it on the engine. Nice bright spark. Did not check fuel yet, but working on that at the moment. Still going to replace all the wires and distributor cap along with plugs. Just an FYI.
 
#3 ·
And after two 10MM bolts and a plastic cup, I know that I have fuel going to the rails. At this point, I figure I have fuel, and I have spark. Gotta be timing, distributor isn't quite right, or enough plugs/wires are failing that I can't get it to catch. Seems like it would lope a bit if it were a plug/wire or two that wasn't performing. Ideas?
 
#5 ·
how does it sound when you try to crank it? Sound normal? No codes? The MAF sensor will kill the motor if it goes bad but will set a light. a belt with stripped teeth will throw off the timing therefore the truck will not run.

Side note. Premium fuel will do no harm, i always fill with medium grade.
 
#6 ·
how does it sound when you try to crank it? Sound normal? No codes? The MAF sensor will kill the motor if it goes bad but will set a light. a belt with stripped teeth will throw off the timing therefore the truck will not run.

Side note. Premium fuel will do no harm, i always fill with medium grade.
Mike - This side note is incorrect.

Premium fuel (AND mid-grade to a lesser extent), can result in unburned hydrocarbons that can become deposits in the engine.

Using a higher octane than the engine is timed for means that the feul burns too slowly for the timing, so the spark starts to burn the fuel, but the flame kernal propagation is late.

If the spark and ignited fuel, to push the piston, were timed like the push to push a kid on a swing...

...higher octane gas would be like pushing the swing when it was a further distance away again (It swings towards you, and you wait JUST until it starts to swing away again to push...

...if you push too SOON, so the swing is jolted on the way IN, that's knock or ping.....

...if you push at the right time, that's good timing....

if you push later (Higher octane), you can lose power, and can coke the engine, leaving dark deposits or even burned looking areas)

(I just wanted to clarify that issue, as there are many readers of these posts who will take these things to heart..and suffer the consequences if unlucky enough)

----------

As for the original post re engine failure...the timing is probably an issue, and the distributer may be a symptom, or at fault, depending upon how over due for a t-belt the poor beast is...

Even a little slip can knock the timing off enough to stop the engine.

Putting a timing gun on it and CHECKING the timing will answer that particular question though, and its what I'd recommend as a starting point.
 
#7 ·
Ok... Got the engine front taken apart, and I am to the point where I need to set the engine at TDC, and remove the crankshaft pulley. Here's my question. How the hell do I set it to TDC without the gauge. I can turn the crankshaft pulley until the dots on the camshaft pulleys match the dots at the rear of the timing belt cover. When I get it in position there, the marker at the base of the engine that points to the timing for the crankshaft pulley is pointing the leftmost mark, position one of five. Is this the correct spot? Is the crankshaft pulley keyed so that I can put it back into place if I move with when I am taking the main bolt out of it? What's the best method? I see that I need a strap wrench when I go to break it loose, but how do you do THAT without moving the freaking crankshaft? Ok, rant over. Next question. How in the hell do you get the number 6 spark plug outta there?!?! :)

I took the hood off, after marking it's location. I'm a big guy, but I get claustrophobic at times, and when I got my hand crammed down behind the engine, I freaked a bit. What combination of extensions and unis does it take to get to it? It took me a good 4-5 minutes to figure out where the heck it was, and that was with taking a few things off and getting them outta the way. Sigh.

Ok, those questions asked, here's the current situation. The belt is intact, and isn't exactly worn out. I mean, yeah, it's got wear, but I don't see missing teeth, etc. The engine turns without a problem, and there isn't any visible signs of damage to the block, but the engine will not fire. I have spark, I have fuel. I've been told distributor, but I haven't gotten to that one yet. :) I did notice that while turning it by hand, the belt will slack at certain spots and has about 1/2" or more of play between the camshaft pulleys. Yeah, it's got some age on it. So, what else could be giving me the problem with the engine not starting? Thanks guys, I appreciate your help.

-Sky
 
#8 ·
first dont take any spark plugs out with blowing a lot of compressed air around the spark plugs ,there are big pockets for dirt and rocks to fall into the cyl as soon as you remove the plug .second are going to change the belt and is the old one still on or have you removed it yet?
 
#10 ·
a strap wrench is not going to work .put the socket in and lay the breaker bar on top of drivers frame rail take a bath towel between the bar and the frame so it doesn't slide off and bump the starter and the bolt is out .you need to to auto zone rent a puller for the balencer, dont try to pry it off the oil pump is right behind the balencer and can easly be damaged and you will be a lot hurt.before you start pull the cap of and mark #1cyl with marker and crank the engine around so the rotor is pointing to the mark on the dis,look down at the balencer and get tdc as close as you can.
 
#11 ·
I picked up a 6" 3-Jaw gear puller to pull the crankshaft pulley(s). All of that is keyed, I should be able to break the bolt loose, turn things back to where they need to be, and then remove the bolt and pulley, right? So, the crankshaft pulley has three pulleys connected together, right? Where is the harmonic balancer? Is that behind the pulley cluster?
 
#13 ·
Ok, I did it. I changed the timing belt, and put the whole shebang back together. Thanks for all of the help everyone gave, and the positive mental support that everyone transferred to me while reading my posts. :)

It really wasn't that bad, but the worst part is getting things set just right before buttoning it all up. I second guessed myself for a bit, but ended up just going for it. When I started the engine, it ran like seven yards of ass, but I found that one of the cylinders (#6) had a bad plug. Apparently I didn't do that one when I changed them, and it was the original plug. That one has GOT to be the worst I have ever had to deal with. New plugs, new wires, and it runs like a champ.

I did notice that my fan seems to be gunked up, and does not freewheel like it should I will change it out at some point, but it does it's job of keeping the engine cool at the moment. Past that, the truck is in good shape. Thanks again everyone, and if you're worried about doing your timing belt, just take your time, read alot, and think your way thru it.

-Sky
 
#15 ·
All great stories start this way... So there I was...

Ok. I have to admit. The timing belt needs to be changed. I'm bad about not doing all of the proper maintenance when it comes to the timing belt. That being said...

So, I leave the house for a trip to work, which is about 12 miles. I drove about a mile, and stopped at my regular gas station. I put about $20 worth of premium in the tank, and headed on. I got about 7 miles into the trip, and at 70MPH, the engine stopped running. When I say it stopped, I mean it did not sputter that I could tell, it did not backfire, I looked down and the RPM's were at zero. I managed to get across 4 lanes of traffic to get to the shoulder of the road. When I got there, I cranked the starter. The engine cranked, but no start. Had it towed to my building, where I put it in the garage. Here's what I have checked.

Battery terminals have been cleaned, battery has been charged.
.1 ohm of resistance from the Neg bat terminal to any metal body part in the truck. I'd say it's grounded fine.
I can hear the Fuel Pump pressurize when I turn the key on.
I have checked all the fuses under the dash, and under the hood, including fusible links. All were still good.
Took the distributor cap off, and had a buddy verify that it was turning. I have NO idea how far it's supposed to turn with each second of cranking, but he verified that it did turn. As I understand, this should mean that the timing belt is still good. Not quite sure on the stripped belt teeth issue.
When the key is in the ignition, the door opening causes the chime to go off. Don't ask me, but I read that somewhere if the chime does not work, no start.
I removed the air cleaner hose just before the Throttle Body, and sprayed some starter fluid in. Probably 1-2 seconds of spray. Tried to start it. No joy. Dunno if this is still an accepted test method with a fuel injected vehicle, but did not experience it trying to start any differently.

From that, here are my questions...
How fast does the distributor move? If I crank the engine for a few seconds, are we talking 1-2 revolutions, or are we talking 10? is it possible that the cap is turning but the shaft is broken and I'm just seeing the friction move it?

I checked for engine codes, and I don't get any. Is this odd? If it wasn't turning the distributor, wouldn't I get spark errors on all cylinders?

If it's water in the tank, would it just have taken a little bit for it to come out of suspension and settle at the bottom of the tank? How the hell do I check for that, and how do I correct it?!?!

Guys, I am new to the forum, but not new to the Xterra. We bought two in 2000, and I love mine. It's not given me any trouble until now. If we can get it ressurected, I will promise, PROMISE to change the timing belt, and hell, I'll even do new plugs and wires. I am at a loss, and would rather ask the pros than to beat my head against the wall guessing. Any ideas? Thanks.

-Sky
Its most likely the cam Positioning center witch you have to replace the whole distributor
 
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