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Heater core inlet outlet?

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#1 ·
Can some one please tell me which tube on the heater core is the inlet and which one is the outlet my previous mechanic connectedthe2 line together .
I saw thee thread about how to fix the broken tube on the heater core and I'm going to try fix it so can finally get heat
Thanks for the input
 
#3 ·
I couldnt tell you which one is which, but it shouldnt matter. if you are using the factory hoses the hoses should reach the barbs better for the correct ones length wise. A heater core is basically just a small radiator with a fan that blows across it to heat you car. as long as coolant in moving through it, it will work.
 
#5 ·
heater core tube repair

i have a 2000 model and just replaced the valvecover gaskets and intake plenum gasket. I had to cut the 2 water hoses in the back to remove them.
during reinstalling I broke off the top heater core hose attanchment on the firewall. In reading the posts..i do not want to have to do the heater core replacement. Has any one got the hose deminsions, so I can find some kind of repair fot this? my thoughts were inserting an male adapter with sealent, then reattach the hose..

Any thoughts..This is my first post..please help.Chef mike
 
#6 ·
I went to Home Depot and bought a 1/4 in x2 in brass pipe fitting. What I'm planning to do is grind the threads on on end so it can fit snugly into the heater core and then seal it with a putty, which I picked up at advance auto parts for like 5 bucks. Once this putty hardens it creates a water tight seal around anything you apply it to, hope this helps
 
#8 ·
Been running w/ my HC bypassed for a month now w/ $ pretty tight. Its winter so I decided to rig something up and picked up some 1/2" OD copper and shoved it into the upper inlet. Then I used that GOOP stuff. I use this crap on anything broken and its good when cured! Problem is I just read that the cured temp rating is maxed at 150 degrees so now im screwed!!! Im not even going to try and install the hose over this because if it fails, im going to have coolant spewing inside the cab. I think tomorrow ill remove it and clean it as best I can and re-do the fix with epoxy or replace the copper with PVC and use that PVC cement.

@Snickerdoodle... nice DIY on the HC replacement. It shows what to deal with if I tackle removing the dash.

Also here is the link to an exploded view of the dash. Starts on page 20...
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2000/bt.pdf
 
#9 ·
I busted some of the plastic off the ends of one of the lines when I disconnected them to do my BL. I ended up just cleaning the plastic and the inside of the line really well and ran some RTV around the plastic tube and shoved the line back on and clamped it up. It's been like this for about 6 months now and no problems. I did have to remove the rubber grommet to be able to fit the line and clamp onto the plastic further though.
 
#10 ·
The tip to getting those hoses off without busting the core is to use a razor blade and cut the Hose and split it off.

Although its too late here maybe this advice can be spread.

Are you sure there is not enough Heatercore nipple left to shove a hose on it? Mine broke when I did a BL and I was able to barely get a hose on it with a VERY tight clamp :D. Have not head troubles with it yet.
 
#11 ·
Happy New Year all... so heres an update on my issue.

Last night was cold as hell here in CA so I decided to just test the Jerry rig I did the other day (1/2" x 2" copper tube amazing GOOP'd to broken heater core inlet). I just connected everything up, topped up the water/coolant and test drove around town fro 20 mins. Then took her out and drove about 40 miles round trip and everything was fine. Nice to have HEAT on a cold NYE night! I still need to re-do this Jerry rig with epoxy. I think everything held up because the cold weather. I monitored temps at the inlet hose and it got up to 158-160 max. The GOOP states its only good up to 150 degrees and thats where my paranoia sets in!
 
#14 · (Edited)
If you want to know whether you have electrolysis in your cooling system go to walmart or autozone and buy a cheap VOLTMETER or MULTIMETER. Put the Black lead on the Negative terminal of the battery and DIP the RED lead in the radiator.

Do this Test with the engine off AND with the engine ON.

After you obtain your reading for Off and On. Turn ALL electrical accessories you can think of on and test again. These three tests should just about cover you. Make sure when you dip the lead in you are NOT touching the radiator. Coolant only. Also If you Just ran the vehicle BE CAREFUL when removing the Cap if you are going to remove it.

The Meter has to read 0 to .3
.5 and greater is bad in Cast Iron.
.10 or higher is bad in cast Aluminum.
 
#15 ·
I ended up going with some nylon 1/2" x 2". Well... as I was pulling off the copper more of the brittle heater core inlet tube broke off. I did what I could. Prepped and cleaned everything and did the epoxy thing. Let it set and cure for 4 hours before I topped up coolant/water. On the heater hose side I had to use some Honda bond (RTV) to get a good seal. All this work to have a small leak inside the firewall side somewhere where the epoxy meets the HC inlet tube. Errrrgggghhhh!!! Im gonna tackle the DIY and start removing the dash but Ill have to leave it in driving condition for the wife to get to work.

If I tackled the job in one day how long would it take 8-12 hours?
 
#17 ·
Total took me about 7 hours and that was with a lunch break.
key is to take photos as you remove things. It helps with putting it back together if you are planning on tackling it by yourself. I had help from the boyfriend so it was a bit easier.. however I did end up with 4 really shiny, bigger bolts left. But so far it's been a year and nothing has fallen apart or rattles so who knows what they went to lol
 
#18 ·
Total took me about 7 hours and that was with a lunch break.
key is to take photos as you remove things. It helps with putting it back together if you are planning on tackling it by yourself. I had help from the boyfriend so it was a bit easier.. however I did end up with 4 really shiny, bigger bolts left. But so far it's been a year and nothing has fallen apart or rattles so who knows what they went to lol
Thats great to hear! Dealer said cracked manifold would take them 6 hours to do and I got it done in 3.5 - 4. Never took out a dash that needed to be put back in though, LOL!

The good news though is the wife drove to work and so far there is no water missing from the radiator. I think all the coolant on the floor was from the copper I Jerry rigged earlier. Still... I hate knowing that this thing is rigged and I wil DIY the core ASAP!
 
#19 ·
I am going through this right now. I noticed a pool under the x when I parked and traced it up to the upper hose (i thought) but the upper hose adaptor was busted. I have been messing with average heating and have known the heater core was likely rusted up I decided to tackle this on while it was hot out. Got a sunburn and all.

Took about 5 hours to pull the dash apart and get the parts on order. I will be finishing up tomorrow. They sell the two hose adaptors separately for almost double the price of the heater core. I am replacing all of it since it is apart. It isn't really too tough to get everything cleared out of the way. I labelled all the harnesses and important bolts. Most of the screws are the same for all the panels. I will be nice to have good cooker heat when it hits -25c.
 
#21 ·
Can some one please tell me which tube on the heater core is the inlet and which one is the outlet...
...yes the hoses need to be hooked to the heater core correctly for proper flow top should be inlet and bottom should be outlet, just like the radiator (as thats all a heater core is) it should flow in top out bottom...
 
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