Nissan XTerra Forum banner

dreaded heater core

43K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  Rocky 
#1 · (Edited)
I purchased an aftermarket core (spectra) minus the the plastic inlets(probably the cause of the leak) . I looked at nissan oem core, these parts come with the assembly. Is there a place where I can buy just the inlets and orings? Also, I read that there is a method of replacment without removal of the dash. Is this true?
 
#7 ·
so what are we supose to do for us that have the heater manifolds broken any aftermarket co. building then or is it your just SOL
The heater core itself has two long plastic tubes coming out of it...so, the tubes and the core are all one piece.

Those are the tubes that pass through the fire wall, and are the nipples you connect the heater hoses to in the engine bay.



There is no "manifold" per se...and the core cost me ~ $35 or so from Courtesy Nissan IIRC.


The swap itself takes 5 minute, super easy.

The process of getting AT the mofo, which is flat against the firewall behind the dash, etc...takes hours.

Putting it all BACK takes a few hours too.

I imagine that a pro dash guy could do it in less than an hour, but I was methodical, and taped labels on all the wires and screws, etc...so I'd remember where things went later, as I didn't do it all on the same day.





If LUCKY, the only broken parts are at the ENDS of the tubes IN the engine bay itself, where you can reach them...and, fit a hose section OVER them to essentially patch the leak point.

If the break/leak is on or too close to the passenger side of the firewall, you're screwed and glued.

:angst-big:
 
#8 ·
The heater core itself has two long plastic tubes coming out of it...so, the tubes and the core are all one piece.

Those are the tubes that pass through the fire wall, and are the nipples you connect the heater hoses to in the engine bay.



There is no "manifold" per se...and the core cost me ~ $35 or so from Courtesy Nissan IIRC.


The swap itself takes 5 minute, super easy.

The process of getting AT the mofo, which is flat against the firewall behind the dash, etc...takes hours.

Putting it all BACK takes a few hours too.

I imagine that a pro dash guy could do it in less than an hour, but I was methodical, and taped labels on all the wires and screws, etc...so I'd remember where things went later, as I didn't do it all on the same day.





If LUCKY, the only broken parts are at the ENDS of the tubes IN the engine bay itself, where you can reach them...and, fit a hose section OVER them to essentially patch the leak point.

If the break/leak is on or too close to the passenger side of the firewall, you're screwed and glued.

:angst-big:


oh i know how to do the job itself but everyone that i checked only sell the core but not the manifold tubes ( plastic tube) that connect core to heater hoses .... mine broke flush with the fire wall lol the only thing that i can think of is to tig some aluminum tubing in place of that plastic manifold
 
#9 ·
Mine broke pretty much flush with the firewall also:



I was able to fix it by removing the rubber grommet and pushing the hose through the firewall hole. There was enough room to get a clamp on it and make a secure connection. I don't have any photos of the fix, but can snap one if you want.

By the way, were you doing a body lift when this happened? Just curious, that's how mine happened.
 
#11 ·
There is no manifold....the tubes off the heater core are very long, and THEY are what stick out through the firewall...they are PART OF the core.

IE: When you clamp the heater hoses onto those tubes sticking through the firewall, the CORE is what you are attaching to....directly...in the engine bay.
 
#12 ·
There is no manifold....the tubes off the heater core are very long, and THEY are what stick out through the firewall...they are PART OF the core.

IE: When you clamp the heater hoses onto those tubes sticking through the firewall, the CORE is what you are attaching to....directly...in the engine bay.
lol tj the when you buy the core it is just that just the core the plastic inlet and outlet hoses arent part of the core .... this is why it is called or considered as a manifold cause it bolts on to the heater core and yes i am referring to the to the tubes that come out of the core and go threw the fire wall
 
#13 ·
LOL

OK.

But, as its a cheap part, and all the work is getting TO it...its not worth all that work to "fix it".

Heck, if you wanted to not BUY one with the tubes to start with, because the $30 is just too much, etc....

...you could just get some heater hose tubing and some clamps, and splice a section on to extend out to the firewall and make a nice new, longer insert/place to then clamp the heater hoses too.

But that just adds a new leak point.

Hmmm, maybe just cut the firewall around it, and make a hatch, and do it from the engine bay side.

:feuerkopf-big:
 
#14 ·
that is funny that you say that there were some 99- about 2006 gm/ chevy trucks 1500-3500 series trucks that we would do that to punch threw the fire wall with air nibbers and make an access panel to get to the heater cores threw the fire wall
the only problem with the xterra is that the core sits in the middle of the fire wall so that puts allot of motor in the way
but you say that you can buy it with the tubes ? do you have a link ? so next question is how do you guys that dont fix it stay warm ?lol
 
#15 ·
that is funny that you say that there were some 99- about 2006 gm/ chevy trucks 1500-3500 series trucks that we would do that to punch threw the fire wall with air nibbers and make an access panel to get to the heater cores threw the fire wall
the only problem with the xterra is that the core sits in the middle of the fire wall so that puts allot of motor in the way
but you say that you can buy it with the tubes ? do you have a link ? so next question is how do you guys that dont fix it stay warm ?lol
I just did a quick peek, and holy crap, they went up in price for tubed ones.



:grimmig-big:
~ $30-40-ish w/o tubes, and closer to $180 WITH tubes.



That's hwy robbery.


http://www.courtesyparts.com/27115-...terra-wd22-2001-2004-p-579828.html?cPath=532&




 
#17 ·
I had to get a whole core from coutresy parts but pulled out my evaporator core and just replaced the tubes. no dash removal for me. it was tricky but i did it in about an hour (disclaimer my a/c system was not charged so dont just undo your a/c lines) and for the record i have had any leaks and its been a year.
 
#18 ·
I had to get a whole core from coutresy parts but pulled out my evaporator core and just replaced the tubes. no dash removal for me. it was tricky but i did it in about an hour (disclaimer my a/c system was not charged so dont just undo your a/c lines) and for the record i have had any leaks and its been a year.
How did you "Pull out" your heater core, w/o moving all the stuff in front of it?
 
#19 ·
I had to get a whole core from coutresy parts but pulled out my evaporator core and just replaced the tubes. no dash removal for me. it was tricky but i did it in about an hour (disclaimer my a/c system was not charged so dont just undo your a/c lines) and for the record i have had any leaks and its been a year.
I pulled out my evaporator core and case. Left the heater core in and changed the tubes only
 
#20 ·
It looks like there are aftermarket tubes available:

http://www.carid.com/2000-nissan-xt...cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CI2b0LivjrwCFTHZQgodSmAA9Q

$50-$80

Nissan Xterra 3.3L 2000-2004, Heater Core Tubes by Dorman®, 1 Piece. This is an aftermarket part that replaces factory OE # 271407Z102. Don’t get stuck with an overheated engine due to a failed heater hose tube. The solid plastic or metal construction that define so many Dorman products makes our HVAC tubes robust and reliable.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top