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CV joint help

12K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  tameroflions 
#1 ·
Whats up guys?

I broke my CV joint last Saturday, my truck has been parked since.

I already have the CV and planning to get to swapping it out tomorrow.

Problem being I have never done this before so I am kind of lost on how to do it:

If anyone has a write up I would greatly appreciate it.

I am guessing I would have to jack up the truck, put a stand under the diff and the jack under the LCA, disconnect the UCA and steering, take off the auto hub and turn the knuckle as far as possible, unbolt the cv off the diff and wiggle the CV out, put the new one in and reassemble.

Only thing I dont know how it works is the splines into the diff when I replace it and how it assembles onto the wheelbearing.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Cheers :)
 
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#2 · (Edited)
If I remember right this is what we did.
Put the truck up on jack stands and take the wheel off.
You need to take the auto hub off because of the snap ring that holds the axle;
Here are some pictures from the ”servicing front bearings” instructions everyone uses that show the snap ring removal;

Removing the snap ring from the fixed cam assembly.


Working the snap ring with the flathead screwdriver.

Then remove bolts (I think 6) that fix the drive shaft to the final drive on the other side of the axle. Separate the drive shaft from the spindle by tapping the outside end with a hammer and work that crap out. You Might have to take out the shock to give room. Don’t lose the washer and the fixed cam assembly. Grease and then work the new one in, drive shaft fixing bolts (I don't know the torque spec on these bolts, sorry), then the fixed cam assembly, washer, snap ring, auto hub (torque spec is 18-25 ft/lb on the hub bolts). Did I forget anything besides the torque specs on those bolts? Anyone else have those?
 
#3 ·
Holy crap, that is awesome, I am forever grateful.

I guess I will need to buy snap ring pliers and a torque wrench.

Seems simpler than I thought, we will see how it works out.

Is the grease regular automotive grease or a specific one?

Thanks :)
 
#7 ·
Note the air tools. I don’t know about running 35's. I run 33's and it’s just about at it’s limit. Breaking that crap on the trail kill’s the day.
 
#8 ·
Agree to disagree :) if a cherokee with an ls1 cab run 37s locked with a stock dana 30 I'm sure the bigger diff less power open carrier and smaller tires of the xterra will be ok. but thank you very much for the quick imput.
 
#10 ·
Agree to disagree :) if a cherokee with an ls1 cab run 37s locked with a stock dana 30 I'm sure the bigger diff less power open carrier and smaller tires of the xterra will be ok. but thank you very much for the quick imput.
Old post, but just read it. :D

The D30 is a live axle with no CV's, so there's actually no comparison of strength relative to the topic of what's more likely to break a CV.

And plenty of people have snapped shafts on D30 turning 33's with open diffs, let alone locked with 37's....etc.

So, you cannot predict the overall nissan's IFS CV survival rate based upon a single example of a Dana live axle's.

:D

I have to do both CV's on mine when I get a chance, so, I can try to remember to write it up.

:D
 
#12 ·
My boots are torn, but the joints are sound, so I probably won't get to this asap, I'll probably just keep squirting fresh grease in for a while yet.

If the ~ 4' of snow melts, etc, I might give'r a go though.

:D
 
#13 ·
haha...so....i guess i wont wait. ill try it and take pics?

any idea how similar this would be for a late 90's pathy? a buddy needs to do his as well and were just gonna make a day of it.
 
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