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Oil Pan replacement

64K views 49 replies 25 participants last post by  Xterra Mike 
#1 ·
I'm new to this forum and spent a little while browsing. With you the amount of knowledge here I was hoping to find some suggestion. I have a 2001 Xterra that I recently pulled the oil pan out only to find my local dealer to have none in stock and 7 people in line when it comes to ordering one. I've tried finding something online with no success. Any suggestions on where I could find a new oil pan that I wouldn't have to wait a month plus to receive? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
#4 ·
Fontana is cheaper though.

And a Sponsor.

:D
 
#5 ·
Yeah but I was posting at the same time you were :)
 
#7 ·
You got it!
 
#10 ·
just wanted to bump this thread- ive got a 2004 and the oil pan is rusted out and leaking oil.

how hard a job is it to swap out the oil pan.....it looks like its difficult to get access to with all the steering parts in the way.

my local shop is saying 3.5 hours needed to do the job- i assume its a trivial job to remove 1 part, made complex by having to remove half the front end to do the job!!!!

thanks, Bruce
 
#11 ·
it might be easier to pull the engine than mess with all the front end stuff . easier to get the new pan on change the rear main and add a new clutch if its a stick.
not easier in any way.
 
#12 ·
it might be easier to pull the engine than mess with all the front end stuff . easier to get the new pan on change the rear main and add a new clutch if its a stick.


since you have to drop the front diff to remove the engine I would say, don't worry about removing the engine.
 
#13 ·
I guess I'll add to this thread.

I've got a pan on it's way for my 03 4wd with 70K, and am planning to do the swap this coming weekend.

Are there any parts that I can pretty much count on destroying and needing replacing? Special nuts/bolts, cotter pins, hoses/lines, seals/gaskets?

It looks like it is recommended to skip the oil pan gasket and just use RTV? Is CV grease ok to use for the hubs? Looks like they need to be disassembled, and some fresh grease won't ever hurt.

I'm going through the OEM service manual reading the procedure. Are there any special tools I should need? I have impact sockets (to 24mm), impact gun, jacks and stands, wrenches (up to 22mm), regular 1/2" sockets up to 21, plus 1", 1-1/4" 30mm and 32mm. I also have snap ring pliers, and a decent torch. I'm going to pick up a can of PB blaster, and start soaking everything. I do not have an engine hoist.

Once you have the front diff and cross member out of the way, do you need to lift the engine? Does the transmission need to be dropped? The manual shows to remove the rear trans-to-engine mounting bolts. It also looks like I shouldn't actually have to remove the front diff, just disconnect the front axles and lower it down?

I know, a bunch of questions, but I haven't ever had to work on this thing, it's been nice and reliable aside from this leak, and just want to know what to expect. I start a new job on Monday, pan should be here Friday/Saturday, so I'd like to get everything in order before hand so this will go as smoothly as possible. Thanks!
 
#14 ·
Got this done a few weeks ago, twice. The first time I followed the book and lost the rear gasket in the oil pan, the second time I took some short cuts.


You will want extensions and wobbles/universals, to get at quite a few of the bolts.

Drain the oil.

Unbolt the steering arm from the passenger side frame rail (3- 19MM bolts and nuts). This allows it to drop down giving you room to swing the differential out.

Drop the differential- unbolt the propeller shaft (14mm nuts) and the CVs (6 12mm bolts) -from the diff, unbolt the rear support (2-17mm bolts) and then front mounts (19mm) and it will drop out.

On the front cross member, loosen the diff mount and swing it towards the front of the truck (2- 17mm). This eliminates the need to lift the engine.

Remove the starter from the passenger side of the engine- 2 14MM bolts using about 2' of extensions, plus a universal.

Then remove the engine to transmission brackets (14mm bolts, 3 per side)

You should be able to access the 18 10mm bolts holding the pan on, though you will still need universals and extensions to get at them.

Clean off any sealants on the block.

If you are using the oil pan gaskets, silicon them to the block, then lift the pan into place, after applying sealant to the top edge. Bolt back on starting with the center bolt, and then spiral outwards.
 
#17 ·
im doing this pretty soon and take pics. im replacing all the bolts. they are six mm. looking for a one pc gasket but they are non exsistant unless one of you guys knows something i dont? maybe a quest gasket works since they are the same block. BTW you guys that are having a hard time finding pans, looks like the late 80's thru 90's pathfinder and hard body nissan oil pans work for the first gen X's
 
#18 ·
You are correct with the 3.5 hr quote, that is what I was quoted also, and the oil pan itself is not cheap. Mine is also rusting pretty bad, I hate to pull the engine to swap an oil pan, but I guess that's what we gotta do. I am always afraid things won't go back together right, (not that I am doing it myself, but even at a dealership, sometimes those guys don't have their head in the game, haha) They forgot to put my oil filler cap back on one time, and of course I didn't know it until I had sprayed oil all over my engine, it even damaged the rubber seal around my headlight, (that was on a Honda)
 
#19 ·
had to do it this spring for a different reason [dipstuck stuck then end broke off- had to get it out]. I'm not much of a mechanic but it wasn't too bad. I just followed the DIY from the list from Phrog Man on front diff drop and install. This got it out of the way, then I just took off the starter [to reach some of the bolts] then the oil pan.
The hardest parts were getting the pan off [the old seal was really stuck] and getting the diff up and down. For the seal you'll need an old knife to cut it carefully. For the diff it's heavy and hard to hold. A couple of buddies to lift really help. [ I did it solo with two jacks, lots of blocks, patience, and stubborness]. hope this helps-any questions feel free to ask I'll try and explain.
 
#20 ·
im doing this pretty soon and take pics. im replacing all the bolts. they are six mm. looking for a one pc gasket but they are non exsistant unless one of you guys knows something i dont?
The gasket comes out of a tube -- Permatex Ultra Grey, but there are a couple of pieces that go around the case seal retainers.
Install instructions: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2001_Xterra/em.pdf#page=73
Permatex cross refrence: http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/permatex/permatex-product-catalog/25365-149041-_78.html
 
#21 ·
Ya I know but a one piece is better
 
#22 ·
Just pulled this off w/o raising the engine

I just did a complete DIY replacement of the oil pan, oil/water pump, timing/serpentine belts, etc... without removing or raising the engine using your thread suggestions. I have pics to help if anyone wants to see. I understand why the labor at a shop is quoted as soooo much. It took 3 weekends, but was welll worth it.
 
#23 ·
I just did a complete DIY replacement of the oil pan, oil/water pump, timing/serpentine belts, etc... without removing or raising the engine using your thread suggestions. I have pics to help if anyone wants to see. I understand why the labor at a shop is quoted as soooo much. It took 3 weekends, but was welll worth it.
Ok, post them,please.
 
#24 ·
I just replaced the oil pan in my 2000 Xterra and did not have to take the front end out. It is just a little tricky to pull the front end of the drain pan out. It is a 3.5 hour job. Take your time and it will come out ok. When placing the oil pan back, it is a good idea to get the master cylinder in the up position.
 
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