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2003 XE- Trans issue

2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  Malarky3113 
#1 ·
A little background- I just purchased this vehicle for CHEAP. I always wanted one, and it fell right into my lap. A friend's gf was looking for a reason to get a new car. From my questioning it seems the trans started to slowly slip until she got to a point where she had it towed home. The issue started and progressed to this point in one day (according to her). There was no abrupt failure or any grinding, metal sounds. Again, this is just what she said, but she had no reason to lie as I paid her exactly what the salvage yard was going to.

So onto my questions. Vehicle is a 2003 XE with about 140k.

1- How strong is this transmission? I haven't found much, or anything, about failure on Google. But I also haven't heard they are bullet proof either. I plan to drain the trans fluid, check the color (I don't believe it has been serviced recently, or ever), and fill it back up. Crossing my fingers that this will allow me to at least drive it home.

2- If the trans is dead, does anyone have a link to a write-up on how to swap a new one in? Can it be done in a driveway with a little beer for my friends?

3- The A/C is dead. The blower still works, but apparently doesn't blow cold air. Is this a common issue with these? Or should I check the system then attempt to recharge it? I'm personally a windows down guy, but in the event I sell it on, I'd like to say it works.

4- Is there anything I should check that I haven't listed?

Once I get it running right, I plan to SeaFoam it. Found the write-up on here and it looks like worthwhile thing to try. If it works, my 97 Integra will get one too.

I want to thank anyone who helps me in advance. I already have learned a lot about these vehicles from this site.
 
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#2 ·
Hi Malarky,
The trans is built pretty tough, but many people never service them and the ATF does break down, which causes a slow trans death.
The oil may not look burned, but that does not mean it still works in the torque converter and the clutches.
Also the filter can become clogged with debres (clutch particals and metal), so changing the oil and replacing the filter can be a good cheap try.
If you do have to replace the trans, make sure you also replace the torque converter, as it may be what is keeping it from moving.
Replacement is fairly easy and straight forward.

The AC on these trucks are pretty robust, but the two large intake and output hoses get hard and leak down. The thing to do, is replace them and the dryer tank, then rechage.
ps. You may be able to spot the bad hose by the green dye which leaked out. One thing to remember though, if one is dead, the other is right behind it. It is important to replace the dryer tank (which is pretty cheap).
 
#3 ·
Further on the AC: Go to a parts store and rent a set of gauges and see what it's actually doing. If they read 0, then you got a leak. Get some refergerant with a dye in it, and put enough in to get the system flowing, then check for leaks with a UV light. A cheap black light can work, but will be a bit harder to see. If it has pressure, then have a buddy turn on the front defogger while you look at the compressor. You should see the pulley actually pull into the belt and the middle start to spin (middle will be stationary when not engaged). If it's not doing that, then the compressor is toast and will need to be replaced.

You're at 140K, has the timing belt been done? It's due at 105 and can destroy the engine if it fails. Beyond that, grab the FSM, get up to date on the maintenance and be prepared for another 10 years of joy with this truck.
 
#5 ·
Further on the AC: Go to a parts store and rent a set of gauges and see what it's actually doing. If they read 0, then you got a leak. Get some refergerant with a dye in it, and put enough in to get the system flowing, then check for leaks with a UV light. A cheap black light can work, but will be a bit harder to see. If it has pressure, then have a buddy turn on the front defogger while you look at the compressor. You should see the pulley actually pull into the belt and the middle start to spin (middle will be stationary when not engaged). If it's not doing that, then the compressor is toast and will need to be replaced.

You're at 140K, has the timing belt been done? It's due at 105 and can destroy the engine if it fails. Beyond that, grab the FSM, get up to date on the maintenance and be prepared for another 10 years of joy with this truck.
The AC is on the back burner for now. No sense in fixing it if the truck doesn't move right? I did want to check the timing belt. I'm not sure if it ever got changed. I looked at the write-up on here and it looks pretty easy to switch out. Might just do it for the piece of mind.
 
#6 ·
The AC is on the back burner for now. No sense in fixing it if the truck doesn't move right? I did want to check the timing belt. I'm not sure if it ever got changed. I looked at the write-up on here and it looks pretty easy to switch out. Might just do it for the piece of mind.
I wouldnt call a timing belt an easy job...but it can be done by a mechanically inclined individual with the right tools.

In regards to the trans. I would pull it and take it to a transmission shop for a rebuild. THey will be able to clean out the solenoids and put new clutch packs on it. Might run you between 400 and 900 but your trans will be brand new if they overhaul it.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I wouldnt call a timing belt an easy job...but it can be done by a mechanically inclined individual with the right tools.

In regards to the trans. I would pull it and take it to a transmission shop for a rebuild. THey will be able to clean out the solenoids and put new clutch packs on it. Might run you between 400 and 900 but your trans will be brand new if they overhaul it.
Honestly, I bought the truck because it was dirt cheap and I figured I could fix it and sell it for a lot more. Hell, I could probably sell it for more than I paid in it's current condition.

But in the few days I've had it, it's growing on me. If I wind up keeping it, I'll definitely keep a rebuild in mind.
 
#8 ·
Yeah, check the A/C compressor and do a leak test. It is very likely your leak is in the high pressure hose between the compressor and the condenser, thouhg the low pressure side into the compressor can also leak. Right at the crimps is where the leaks will be. If your compressor clutch still engages and it works if re-filled, then it is easy to remove the hoses, worm them out, and reverse the process with new hoses from the dealer. replacing the compressor is a bigger pain, but I did mine a few months ago and it has worked fine ever since. You also replace the dryer and maybe the condenser if the compressor blew up inside, but at minimum you flush the condenser and replace te dryer.
 
#10 ·
The 00 X trans will fit your 03.
Make sure to get the torque converter too.
 
#12 ·
Finally was about to work on this a little. Yesterday I did a drain and fill, and went out and got a new battery for it. The battery was beyond saving, and turns out, not the right size one for the truck anyway. After all this the truck started right up and idled nice.

Unfortunately, I was late for something so I didn't have time to test the transmission. I plan to let the truck get to temperature, then with out moving shift the gears back and forth making sure they all engage before I even attempt to drive it. Honestly, It was low on trans fluid and what did come out was UGLY. If I get it moving I'll be doing another drain and fill soon.
 
#13 ·
Well its gone. The drain and fill did help... me realize that the trans cooler was ruptured. When I first checked the coolant, it looked like it just needed to be changed. After the drain and fill, it was black. Figured that out Friday morning just before jumping in the Jeep to head up to Lake Placid for the weekend.

Half way up there, got a call that someone in the development called complaining about it just sitting there. They said I had the weekend to get rid of it. Made some calls and sold it on. They picked it up early this morning.

It sucks, I planned to just run an external cooler (~$40) and hope for the best, but thanks to people with nothing better to do, I had to punt it. At least I came out ahead.
 
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