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AC 3" lift: can't adjust T-bars further

7K views 40 replies 12 participants last post by  xtacular 
#1 ·
I've had the AC 3" lift since 09 with no complaints save one: the leafs never settled so I have a 5 degree forward rake. Apparently this is normal, but I want to level it out.

My regular shop says there's nothing left to adjust on the t-bars. Isn't there normally 1.5 inches of t-bar play (PML) in addition to aftermarket lift? It doesn't sound right.
 
#2 ·
Its not possible to get a level truck with the lift. With a pml you can end up mostly level with shackles in the back and uca up front and adjusting the torsion bars. If you want your truck level get rid of the add a leaf and get some shackles. The uca up front didnt give you the lift, they are angled different from stock to allow you to adjust the torsion bars more to get extra lift in the front.
 
#4 ·
Look at my signature...there is a how to for re indexing the t bars.

You have to make sure you have bump stop room though! Even if you have low profile bump stops, you may be out of alignment if you get too close to them!

If you have larger openings in the bump stops than 1/2" you need to reindex to get the extra height!

let me know if you have any more questions
 
#5 · (Edited)
Re-indexing can be.... fun.

I had a hell of a time freeing the torsion bars from their anchors on either end. Ended up using a nail puller as a wedge between the torsion bar anchor (front end) and the lower control arm. Few whacks with the BFH and they popped out. For that reason 'd recommend completely removing your torsion bars and loading up the splines on both ends with anti-seize, it will make your life a lot easier down the road.
 
#6 ·
Re-indexing can be.... fun.
For that reason 'd recommend completely removing your torsion bars and loading up the splines on both ends with anti-seize, it will make your life a lot easier down the road.
I did that on mine when I reindexed and I guess I used too much. I ended up not getting one of them set right and had to pull it out and turn it a couple of teeth. The anti seize sealed the end and created suction and made it all put impossible to get the thing back out.
 
#7 ·
Look at my signature...there is a how to for re indexing the t bars.
Yup, my ride looks just like yours in the 'before' photo with the front rake. Now I understand why the shop thought they couldn't lift it.

About how long does this take, including re-adjustment if you don't get the right spline?

My only concern now: the cross member with the adjusters in it took a brutal hit on a trail this summer and is twisted. I'll need to see if the adjusters were affected by the warping.
 
#8 ·
Give us a measurement up front, right at the middle of the tire{hub} to your wheel well. I also have a 3 inch lift and 32s.I've had mine up to 38 inches with that measuring spot.I have the sway away TBs.Your Tbars could be tired also.Could get some newer stockers,or go aftermarket.Those adjuster bolts and bits and pieces can wear out also.I had my TBar spin through my adjuster. The female splines were worn away.I was on the trail.Not good.Things to consider.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Measure at the bottom of the seam by the doors...the wheel wells by design are not necessarily on the exact same level....the straight seam below the front andback doors is a better place to measure because you know the truck is level when the front seam height is the same as the rear seam height.

It only took me a few hours to get them back in and lifted higher. Maybe 4 hours without really understanding what was going on at first...including the readjustment. I later re did them again to better position the lifters and was able to get both sides done in about 1.5 hours once I had the experience...but I got the right spline first try.

The ANNOYING part was the actual adjusting of the bolt and adjuster. Fine thread bolt takes forever to twist in only to find that you were one tooth out. AND, one sides adjustment affects the other, so don't adjust to a measurement until both bars are back in and the adjusters cranked semi-close to the final adjustment.

The nice thing is that you are not really doing anything that can give you down time...If all else fails you can install them at a lower tooth setting and just drive with a crooked posture in an emergency until you get to try again.

For reference, once you move the adjuster, you can only rotate the bar so far before the bolt is not long enough to reach the top of the cross member. I found the perfect spot to be ONE spline tooth closer than the maximum amount you could twist. First time I put it at the farthest setting while still getting the nut on the bolt, and found that I ran out of bump stop travel and my adjusters were not properly tucked into the cross member...one tooth closer did the trick.

Also, when reinstalling the torsion bars into the anchor, take the hammer and make sure the bar is correctly seated into the LCA anchor...and the adjuster. Just make sure all mounts are securely fastened.
 
#10 ·
Which lift kit did you get. Is it the add a leaf, shackle, or revolvers. Only way you are getting it level is with the shackle kit. add a leaf will give you about 2 inch rake, revolver kit will give you 2.75. Did you get the full kit with the torsion bars or do you still have stock torsions. if they are stock, they can be worn out and you will again not get the full front lift.

Before you touch any of it have you checked the bumpstop gap up front. Do not go under .5 gap.
 
#11 ·
If your stock torsion bars are worn and saggy....they will droop the front end...which in turn will flex the UCA leaving a larger bump stop gap...and allow more room for adjustment. Saggy t-bars...that will just alter the adjustments and re indexing that you have to do but will not alter the final ride height that is possible to achieve.

It is true that you won't get it completely level. For the front end...adjust to the 1/2" bump stop gap on each side...and fine tune the adjustments to even out left and right. Whatever you are left with as a rake front to back...is just the way it is...you can't go any higher without sacrificing tire alignment.
 
#12 ·
I have the AAL kit with the AC t-bars. The damaged cross member wasn't the one I thought it was so the adjusters are fine. I'll need to look at the bump stops and get back to you.
 
#13 ·
And I have the Bilstein shocks.

The bump stop gap looks like 1.5-2" so there's lots of room.
 
#14 ·
You did measure the upper bump stop gap, right? DOn't get it confused with the bump stop gap below on the lower control arm. Not trying to doubt your intelligence, it's just a common mistake to look out for :D
 
#15 ·
You did measure the upper bump stop gap, right? DOn't get it confused with the bump stop gap below on the lower control arm. Not trying to doubt your intelligence, it's just a common mistake to look out for :D
From the pic in your 'how to' I was looking at the stop gap on top of the lower control arm near where the idler arm adjuster is. I'm no suspension wiz :)
 
#16 · (Edited)
Look a little higher...where the Upper control arm is. There should be a flat surface on the bottom of the upper control arm...and a black rubber dome below it. If the tire drops lower, this is the bump stop that will catch the upper control arm from dropping all the way to the ground.

2" seems like a big gap which made me think you may be looking at the LCA gap
 
#17 ·
Look a little higher...where the Upper control arm is. There should be a flat surface on the bottom of the upper control arm...and a black rubber dome below it. If the tire drops lower, this is the bump stop that will catch the upper control arm from dropping all the way to the ground.

2" seems like a big gap which made me think you may be looking at the LCA gap
The gap is the distance between the two red arrows OP.

 
#18 ·
better frame of reference...exactly what you are looking for. thanks for the pic
 
#20 ·
The gap is the distance between the two red arrows OP.

Yup, that's what I was looking at. I haven't measured, but on a second look this morning I'd say 1.5" gap. Does this mean I could get lose 1" of the 2" rake by adjusting the t-bars? That's my goal is to not look like a drag racer ;)
 
#21 ·
Yup, that's what I was looking at. I haven't measured, but on a second look this morning I'd say 1.5" gap. Does this mean I could get lose 1" of the 2" rake by adjusting the t-bars? That's my goal is to not look like a drag racer ;)
If it's 1.5" now possibly you could lose a lot of the rake. Best way to measure is to get a piece of wood and whittle/sand one end down until it is .5" thick and use it as a go/no-go gauge to determine when you have a .5" gap.
 
#22 · (Edited)
one inch of bump stop gap does not necessarily mean 1 inch of lift...Because the UCA is rotating around where the CAM bolts are...and the tire and bump stop are different lengths from the point of rotation...so for the same rotation, the two points have moved a different length...you could do some complicated trig math to determine the relationship of the two points...but I think that would be overkill for this application :) but yes, you can lose a lot of the rake by adjusting your torsion bars, you just need to adjust the no load position of the anchors, so they can twist the bar more before they hit the back of the cross member :)

And yeah, use a go-no-go gage type of spacer...I used 3 paint stir sticks taped together....and adjusted to the point where I could just barely slide them in the bump stop gap. did that to both sides...then measured the ride height...and fine tuned each side so there was no lateral rake from passenger to driver side.

I believe one of my bump stop gaps ended up being a little larger...I adjusted so that the smallest bump stop gap was .5" and the other was just slightly larger to result in a leveled ride height laterally
 
#23 ·
I finally got around to having the T-bars indexed as per the guides. Looks right, rides with a bit more bounce. I'll drive it for awhile before I take it back for an alignment seeing as small adjustments may be needed.

Thanks for all the advice.
 
#24 ·
great! glad to help!
 
#25 ·
/facepalm

I love my shop, but they went too far the other way: I'm now resting on the bump stops. That would explain the extra bounce ;) They have your threads as a reference, but I gather this back and forth adjusting will be part of the process.

Quick measure has me 8" from wheel to edge of fender up front, 7" in the back.
 
#26 ·
Measure not from wheel to fender, but from the horizontal seem under the doors...the one parallel to the floor boards!

The fender cut outs are not necessarily positioned so that the truck is level when the fender gaps are the same...measuring at the seam below the doors...you know it is parallel with the floor...and when that seam is parallel to the ground, you know your ride is leveled!

Back the torsion bar adjusters off some to get a 1/2" gap between the bump stop and upper control arm!
 
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