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Advise Needed...

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  F150Xterra 
#1 ·
So ive been searching and reading for over a week now...I need advice and or pics if anyone is running what im thinking...

Heres what im working with:
2004 Xterra 2wd, everything is stock. Measured my front from my rear and there is a 2" dive towards the front (yes yes i know normal)

Im wanting do do mild offroading, nothing serious. With what ive read so far ive decided on:
16x8 Cragar Soft 8s 5" backspace
2" body lift

What im unsure of is:
Will the 2" body lift fit 265/75/16 ATs? Will they look too small? Will i need to do minor trimming? AND would it benifit costmetically to do the PML?

Thanks guys for your help!
 
#3 ·
265/75/16 will look fine with just a 2" BL...a PML don't look bad either :)

I have a 2+" Suspension Lift + 2"BL and have 265/75/16 and I don't even think they look too small
 
#4 ·
265/75/16 will look fine with just a 2" BL...a PML don't look bad either :)

I have a 2+" Suspension Lift + 2"BL and have 265/75/16 and I don't even think they look too small
Thanks! Do you think the 265/75/16 would work with just the PML too? During my research ive seen it work on a 4x4...but not 2wd. My only concern is im trying to get rid of my HUGE nose dive..i dont even mind if its just a little dive...but i want to avoid being ass high lol
 
#5 ·
that tire size will fit a stock 2004 xterra.

If you want to get rid of your nose dive, skip the PML...just adjust the front torsion bars to raise the front end up some. If you add shackles to the back, you will, at best, keep your same nose dive, or worst case scenerio, add to it.

Unless you are ready to dump serious cash into your truck for offroading gear (unlikely since it is 2wd), I would just adjust the front torsion bars to bring the nose up some, and throw the tires on there. If you want a little higher all around, get the body lift done, which will not add any nose dive at all, but be prepared for the little ins and outs of getting all the kinks out once the BL is done.
 
#6 ·
that tire size will fit a stock 2004 xterra.

If you want to get rid of your nose dive, skip the PML...just adjust the front torsion bars to raise the front end up some. If you add shackles to the back, you will, at best, keep your same nose dive, or worst case scenerio, add to it.

Unless you are ready to dump serious cash into your truck for offroading gear (unlikely since it is 2wd), I would just adjust the front torsion bars to bring the nose up some, and throw the tires on there. If you want a little higher all around, get the body lift done, which will not add any nose dive at all, but be prepared for the little ins and outs of getting all the kinks out once the BL is done.
Thanks a bunch!! You just settled my mind....it just gonna do the torsion bar on the front and get the rims and tires. I just wanna make it nice...and not dumb a huge amount into it since it is just the 2wd. Thank you again!
 
#7 ·
No problem man...now post some pictures when you get the new tires on!
 
#8 ·
Argh, took her in to get the power steering pump replaced today and they told me BOTH of my lower control arms are going out...i swear by the time im done with this X it will be brand new lol.

So the woman keeps asking about the body lift...and what kinda "kinks" come with it? (just for future reference). As far as tires..im thinking about going with Toyo Open Country A/T II? Anyone else running those?
 
#9 ·
Argh, took her in to get the power steering pump replaced today and they told me BOTH of my lower control arms are going out...i swear by the time im done with this X it will be brand new lol.

So the woman keeps asking about the body lift...and what kinda "kinks" come with it? (just for future reference). As far as tires..im thinking about going with Toyo Open Country A/T II? Anyone else running those?
If done correctly none, but if you fail to read the DIY body lift thread 3-4 times to make certain you have it all covered you can have problems ranging from slightly annoying squeaks to tearing out the dash to replace the heater core. Generally though with a solid plan it is a trouble free mod.
 
#10 ·
What did they mean by both lower control arms going out? The ball joints?
 
#11 ·
What did they mean by both lower control arms going out? The ball joints?
Yah the ball joints are going bad...n they said you hafta replace the whole control arms at the same time. When he said ball joints i was hoping he meant the UCAs...n which case id do a suspension lift...but i was wrong...its the lowers. But anyways he said they have play in them (why im hearing a clunk around turns)...and to keep an eye on them, when it starts clunking more often, they need to be replaced SOON.
 
#12 ·
Yah the ball joints are going bad...n they said you hafta replace the whole control arms at the same time. When he said ball joints i was hoping he meant the UCAs...n which case id do a suspension lift...but i was wrong...its the lowers. But anyways he said they have play in them (why im hearing a clunk around turns)...and to keep an eye on them, when it starts clunking more often, they need to be replaced SOON.
You can replace them yourself... it's just a huge pain. Took me 12 hours per side. As far as them being "unserviceable" it only takes about 30 seconds with a hammer and chisel to get around that. There's just little dimples in the nut on the old BJ that need to be knocked back.

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12866
 
#13 · (Edited)
http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2191

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9713

Read through those...every page.

The body lift isn't bad in the sense it causes kinks or problems...it is just a much more in depth install, so you have to be careful.

Here are the broad highlights (trying not to get too off topic in this thread here though)

1) Plastic clip holds the heater core hoses together. Remove it so you do not break your heater core inlets and outlets while lifting.
2) Power steering reservoir needs to be remounted so it sits lower (I just used zip ties and left it, I am lazy)
3) Radiator has to have the lower fan shroud removed, and the radiator unhooked from the body while lifting, you can mount it in the same spot later without the lower shroud or try to lower it 2 inches.
4) May have to unclip some brake lines.
5) Some people got a squeak at the rear interior body mounts, it can be fixed though.
6) Re fitting your bumpers correctly can be a pain.

Long story short, you are moving the cab of the truck upwards 2 inches, while the engine, transmission, frame, etc are staying the same height. Anything that is connected to BOTH the frame AND the body need to have slack in the hose or wire so when you push them apart, they do not become tense and break.

None of these things are actually "bad" per se, but it just takes some care.
 
#14 ·
You can replace them yourself... it's just a huge pain. Took me 12 hours per side. As far as them being "unserviceable" it only takes about 30 seconds with a hammer and chisel to get around that. There's just little dimples in the nut on the old BJ that need to be knocked back.

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12866
Dang after reading that i think i will just get em done LOL...

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2191

http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9713

Read through those...every page.

The body lift isn't bad in the sense it causes kinks or problems...it is just a much more in depth install, so you have to be careful.

Here are the broad highlights (trying not to get too off topic in this thread here though)

1) Plastic clip holds the heater core hoses together. Remove it so you do not break your heater core inlets and outlets while lifting.
2) Power steering reservoir needs to be remounted so it sits lower (I just used zip ties and left it, I am lazy)
3) Radiator has to have the lower fan shroud removed, and the radiator unhooked from the body while lifting, you can mount it in the same spot later without the lower shroud or try to lower it 2 inches.
4) May have to unclip some brake lines.
5) Some people got a squeak at the rear interior body mounts, it can be fixed though.
6) Re fitting your bumpers correctly can be a pain.

Long story short, you are moving the cab of the truck upwards 2 inches, while the engine, transmission, frame, etc are staying the same height. Anything that is connected to BOTH the frame AND the body need to have slack in the hose or wire so when you push them apart, they do not become tense and break.

None of these things are actually "bad" per se, but it just takes some care.
Without reading those (yet), all those makes me think a suspension lift may be more $$ but less potentially harmful to the rig if anything is done wrong...
 
#16 ·
there is a lot of information to read through, decipher, and understand. I wouldn't say it was very risky, it is just involved...as was said...just take your time and truly understand what you are doing.

SL is typically easier/cleaner to install as it's just replacing parts....unbolt part, re-bolt new parts, etc...it's fairly isolated in the sense that no other parts are really affected. BL impacts other areas, so it is just more information to know.

I just did mine a few weeks ago, so if you have any questions, shoot me a PM...it really was not difficult.
 
#17 ·
Super excited! I ran across rims & BFG AT KOs on CL for less then the price of just the tires alone! The tires are the 265/75/16s and the rims are 16x8 with 0 offset and 4.5 backspacing. I searched around on here and i found guys that were running a similar set up without any lifts but wanted to ask you guys before i pull the trigger n make sure i dont need wheel spacers or anything (reading the offset calculation thread was a little like reading chinese to me...didnt go so well haha)! Thanks guys!
 
#19 ·
I ran 265/75/16s on wheels with just a 4.5 inch backspacing w/ only a t-bar crank... Now I did have plastic trimming to do front and rear of th fenderwell and had to hammer back the pinch welds either side. 2 inch body lift fix the problem all together. I personally like the stance I gained from this wheel and tire combo. Any larger of a tire and you will be trimming metal though.

Set-up with t-bar crank


trimming done on the plastic (chose to keep plastic behind the fenderwell, thought it looked funny without it)



full-lock (best picture I have but clears no issues)


body-lift, t-bar crank,
 
#20 ·
lbishop, i love your X! Thanks for posting up pics...I pulled the trigger n bought the wheels. Now i just need to get the 2" BL and find a shop or someone to install it....i wish i could do it myself...but 2 accidents in 1 yr wrecked my shoulders :(. Sooo if you guys know of anyone in the Sacramento area...send em my way!
Heres a pic of the tires n wheels, super excited!!
 

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