05 with vibration @ 40mph [Archive] - Nissan Xterra Forum

: 05 with vibration @ 40mph


boilerman
03-17-2009, 10:06 AM
Hey Nissan Folks....Glad to be part of the group. Been a steady Nissan owner for about 14 years. Bought a 2005 Xterra, S brand new, and car has been pretty solid with no real issues. Started having a vibration coming from under the vehicle at about 40mph. Brought to my local mechanic, and he diagnosed a bad front wheel bearing. $500.00 later, I still have vibration. Brought back and he road tested and told me it was most likely my torque converter hanging up when going into OD. There is no vibration below or above. He flushed transmission, cleaned screen, removed and cleaned pan, and refilled fluids. Truck seemed to be fixed for a couple of days, but started vibrating again this morning. Should I reattempt flushing and changing fluids again? Is there an additive that should go in with the fluids that will help the valve bodies operate better? Anyone else seen or had this problem with a remedy that works. I hate to think I need to resort to a new transmission with only 65,000 miles. Thansk in advance for your assistance.

Boilerman

TJTJ
03-17-2009, 10:40 AM
To have a ghost of a chance here...we'd need more info.

Oh, and Welcome A Board!
:wink-big:

First off...vibration can be many things...

You mentioned it vibes at 40 mph...is that AT 40, but not above or below 40...or, from 40 mph on up?

If it has a narrow RANGE that it vibrates between, but not above or below, that's typically a resonance vibration for example.

Does it only coorelate with speed, or does RPM make a difference?

If at the speed in question, but coasting, or braking, or accelerating, or turning, vs keeping a steady speed in a straight line...do those things make a difference?

Is the steering wheel vibrating, or the entire truck?

Does it seem to be based in the front or back?

Did it start to do it after any maintenance work or other event you can remember?

:D

boilerman
03-17-2009, 10:50 AM
Sorry for the lack of details. THe vibration feels like it's coming from under the middle of the truck. It reminds me of driving on the rumble strips on the highway (only not quite as loud). It happens mostly at 40 mph not above or below. It seems to happen when I hold at approximately 40 maintaining a load on the motor (not coasting). As I said before, I kind of think it has something to do with torque converters, because the problem went away for 4 or 5 days....now is slowly coming back. Also, when its very cold out (20 degF) it takes awhile for it to start happening. It appears to need to warm up a bit before vibrating. The steering is not affected. It does seem to me to be some sort of ressonnat vibration. All ujoints and propeller shafts were checked as well.

TJTJ
03-17-2009, 11:00 AM
If its the t converter hanging up going into overdrive, lock out the converter, so it won't try to go into overdrive, and see if it does it.

Also - the converter should result in a load related aspect, as in acceleration should give a worse vibe than steady state....which does relate to your reported symptoms....If what you mean by maintaining speed vs coasting as being more vibe prone....but adding gas/acceleration vs maintaining steady speed, should be worse.

I assume 40 is where the OD tries to kick in (As the hypothesis is the converter hanging going into OD, and, it happens at 40 mph...)...if you stay on it, so it doesn't try to upshift to OD...does the truck go past the 40 mph mark w/o a vibe?

boilerman
03-17-2009, 11:42 AM
I have tried on occasion, when the vibration starts,.... shutting off the overdrive (OD off button on shifter) and vibration goes away. What I meant by constant speed, was assume traveling slightly up hill and as I accelerate slowly fom 40 to say 41 the vibration starts. If I hold that approximate 41mph the vibration stays. If I continue right on up there is no vibration. My problem is there is alot of 40 mph zones in my area, thus I am forced to follow other drivers that keep me in the vibration zone.

TJTJ
03-17-2009, 12:05 PM
OK, then it sounds reasonable, that turning off the OD eliminates the vibe...that its the going into OD that could be involved.

If you have a tach, even though its one of those fancy smancy automagical trannies...you should see the rpm drop when the OD is engaged.

You should also see if this is WHEN the vibe is occurring. You should see the vibe stop WHEN the rpm drops again, indicating that the OD is no longer hanging up.

:D

boilerman
03-17-2009, 12:43 PM
OK, in the event we agree that the shifting into OD is causing my vibration, do you have any ideas on correcting the issue. As I stated in my initial post. Tried flushing, cleaning screen and pan then refilled with fluid. This corrected the problem for aobut 4 days.

Do you think its possible that there was some reidual crud left behind that the initial flush missed that has now found its way into an area, possibly in the valve that is hanging up the shifting?

TJTJ
03-17-2009, 12:47 PM
Sure, flushing is responsible for further clogs all the time.

As it IMPROVED temporarily, clogging could of course be the issue...and, it could of course, become re-clogged by something knocked loose, that traveled as far as it could, and then redeposited, etc.

A more THOROUGH cleaning may work.

Of course...some one might owe you for a wheel bearing job, etc.

:D

IE: Do you want the same shop messing with it?

dezurtrat
03-17-2009, 01:21 PM
Is it more like a real quick double clunk that's happening that I guess could feel like a vibration or is it steady at 40 mph?

boilerman
03-17-2009, 01:36 PM
Steady if I hold at 40 mph slightly accelerating. or holding at 40 up a slight incline

dezurtrat
03-17-2009, 03:21 PM
Well, it is possible that it's the TC. There is a TSB out but it's for the clunk that occurs as it comes in and out of OD. Reason I asked is that the TSB describes the speeds and conditions you mention just it's not a vibration but a clunking.

MECHCAD2001
03-17-2009, 07:44 PM
Flush it...do it yourself so you know it is right. My tranny was doing the same exact thing. Sounds exactly like rumble strips. Flushing the transmission fixed mine. Make real sure to use the correct Transmission fluid to refill....Nissans are picky. Check the filter/screen...be sure the oring is still intact. (I had issue with the aftermarket screen...neck was not perpendicular to the mounting flanges caused a cut oring.) The instructions for flushing are on this site. Clean everything yourself....very important (use lint free rags). Lint is enough to clog up the works.

boilerman
03-18-2009, 01:28 PM
Thanks!!!! I will give it a try.

I had my xterra at the stealership this am for unrelated factory recall with the crash zone sensor. I arrived early and was waitiing outside with service tech. He told me that sometimes my problem is caused by the oil cooler in the radiator leaking and allowing coolant into the transmission and vise versa. We checked radiator fluid and transmission fluid and both looked normal. I was told another tell-tale, is an oil residual in your radiator overflow jug. This looked normal as well......

I was hoping for an answer to why my TC suddenly started acting up, but I guess I'm glad it wasn't due to a leaking cooler, as this is a very spendy repair.

I will post again when I finish my second flush with the use of lint-free rags.
Thanks, again.
-Boilerman

boilerman
03-18-2009, 01:54 PM
by the way. Where on this site is the procedure for tranny flushing?

Thanks-Boilerman

boilerman
03-18-2009, 01:55 PM
What transmission fluid does Nissan reccomend for 2005 xterrra Automatic??

MECHCAD2001
03-18-2009, 02:28 PM
I think it is in the DIY section...Possibly by Dezurtrat? I can't look for it right now.

It is pretty easy. (Brief description) Check fluid level while everything is cold before you start. Drain oil from transmissions pan. Remove pan. (Careful it still has around a quart in the pan) Remove filter/screen. Back flush screen with solvent (I used paint thinner). Locate magnet on pan and clean it. Completely clean and dry pan and remove old gasket. Reinstall screen (check oring) reinstall pan with new gasket. Measure the oil you removed. Refill with new oil (amount you measured) you need a large pan to catch oil and something to measure it with. Locate the transmission lines at the radiator. Remove the return hose (mine was rubber). Set drain pan up to catch the oil from removed line. Start up the engine (idle only). Oil will pump out. Pump around 2-3 quarts out. Stop engine. Measure amount you just removed. Put exactly that much back into the transmission. Start engine again and drain another 2-3 quarts (watch the oil color it should change when the new oil begins to cycle through). Repeat until you have cycled 5-6 quarts through the system. I think the transmission holds 9 quarts. (At least that is what mine holds 03 check that) So if when changing/flushing you use a total of 10 quarts you should be good. The dip stick should read the same as when you started. Make real sure not to overfill. Got to go....If you need more info let me know....Drive it then check level again. I hope I didn't leave anything out. Maybe somebody else can check me on the steps.....

Jason_08_xterra
03-18-2009, 07:19 PM
i had the same thing with my 08 x at about 65 70 but my dealership said it was my rear right rim being bent

dezurtrat
03-18-2009, 07:38 PM
What transmission fluid does Nissan reccomend for 2005 xterrra Automatic??


I'll double check on the 05 but I believe it's Matic J. Be careful about using anything other than that.

LA RANA
03-18-2009, 10:13 PM
Well, it is possible that it's the TC...

Agree with dezurtrat. Sounds like transfer case bearings, drive shaft, or connection between the two.

I would cut your losses and have a driveline specialist look at it, your current shop sounds clueless, sorry you've lost some $ man...that sucks.

LA RANA
03-18-2009, 10:20 PM
I'll double check on the 05 but I believe it's Matic J. Be careful about using anything other than that.

Correction: TC fluid is Nissan Matic D for 2nd gen, 3 quarts.

ATF was Matic J, but Nissan discontinued that (recently but confirmed) and is now using Matic S in its place. Royal Purple ATF MAX meets the specs, at least they list it as such on the back of the bottle, but its 3x more money (not worth it in my opinion).

MECHCAD2001
03-19-2009, 09:36 PM
Clarification Please.....In this case I think Dezurtrat's TC is referring to Torque converter. The Symptoms and testing indicate the shudder occurred at 40 MPH when the Torque converter attempts to lock in....OD "overdrive". This was tested by turning OD off...and the problem went way. This seems to indicate the problem may have something to do with torque converter shudder. Common to modern automatic transmissions with locking Torque Converters.

LA RANA
03-19-2009, 11:45 PM
Clarification Please.....In this case I think Dezurtrat's TC is referring to Torque converter. The Symptoms and testing indicate the shudder occurred at 40 MPH when the Torque converter attempts to lock in....OD "overdrive". This was tested by turning OD off...and the problem went way. This seems to indicate the problem may have something to do with torque converter shudder. Common to modern automatic transmissions with locking Torque Converters.


Sorry but TC = transfer case in frog.

dezurtrat
03-20-2009, 12:05 AM
Yes, sorry, I meant torque converter but should have realized it usually means transfer case. My bad!

boilerman
03-20-2009, 06:15 AM
I originally started this forum talking about torque converters. I agree with MECHCAD2001 comment. I turned off the OD on the way in this AM and the shudder went away. Any suggestions on how to correct a torque converter shudder.....I am willing to try most anything at this point.

Thanks.

MECHCAD2001
03-20-2009, 07:35 PM
Did you re-flush the tranny....Make sure to use the correct fluid. Fluid level?
It worked for my torque converter shudder.

I would say that since your tranny still shifts to OD. and at the correct speed (Shift point should be 43 MPH) there is not a problem with the SOLENOID VALVE, CONTROL VALVES, TEMP SENSOR or other items that control the shift. I guess the solenoid valve might be sticking or fluttering...but I think this is not likely. If the electronics are picking up an error it will be recorded in the TCM. The Haynes manual has instructions on how to retrieve the code using the Check Engine light. It is a Pain....and many times a malfunctioning transmission will not throw a code.

You can check the following items as a start:
torque converter clutch solenoid valve. (trouble code is P0740) Can be tested with multimeter....
Line pressure test. (transmission shop, or connect gauge to correct test port)
control valve assembly (disassemble and clean, check springs Free Lengths)
throttle position sensor (should throw a code)
Speed Sensor (helps control shift point, should throw code)
ATF temp sensor (prevents shifting to OD if oil is too cold) MIGHT BE THIS IF IT HAPPENS ONLY WHEN IT IS COLD!!!

A good transmission shop should be able to run diagnostics while driving the truck...they can monitor things like slip, oil pressure, temp, shift points while driving. The information should lead you to the problem. (Sounds like the Torque Converter to me)

Only other thing that I know of....and I don't think it is a good idea with the low miles you have or with a Nissan tranny....is to purchase an additive that claims to stop the shudder. The additive will most likely cause problems in other areas of the transmission that will result in fried clutches, poor gas mileage, messed up shift points ETC....

And I can tell you from personal experience that it is no fun tearing down this transmission. Well actually it was the re-assembly that was hard.

Sorry I did not mean to write a book....

boilerman
03-21-2009, 06:26 AM
I have not had a chance to re-flush. Probably this Thursday will be first opportunity. I had thought about an additive, but after your comments, am now second guessing myself. As for fluid,..... I have heard that Nissan is now using Matic-S instead of the original Matic-J. Any truth to that............??? I am assuming if the torque converter is bad, it will need to be replaced. Are the parts and labor for this type of repair expensive??

MECHCAD2001
03-21-2009, 03:13 PM
I am not an expert. But here is what I would do.....

Ask your mechanic which fluid was used for the flush he did? Then I would call the stealership and ask which fluid is recommended. My guess is that unless your mechanic specializes in transmisisons...he may have unknowingly refilled with Dextron fluid or something that claimed to be an equivalent fluid. If it were me I would re-flush myself using the instructions and steps on this site before going to the transmission shop. (I only take my cars in as a last resort) You can probably do it....it takes minimum tools..and if it was just done then the gasket and filter are still good. (no $$)

I do not have the tech manual for 2005, my Haynes only goes through 2004. (Haynes has very little in the transmission section)

If the flush does not cure it...Go to a TRANSMISSION SHOP...not the local mechanic or Stealership. Have them test and scan you transmission.

You are correct...if the torque converter is bad it should be replaced. If the torque converter "OD" fails...you should still be able to drive it.

I am cheap...so anytime I have to pay for repairs I think it is expensive. Replacement will require removal of the transmission...plus parts. (1 torque converter, transmission fluid) I think it will cost $500-$800 dollars.
Sorry you are having issues.....

dezurtrat
03-21-2009, 03:33 PM
If they did flush it with something other than The required fluid and that turns out to be Matic J, don't wait to flush it. Do it ASAP!. You destroy the clutches. It will blister them bad!

LA RANA
03-21-2009, 07:34 PM
...I have heard that Nissan is now using Matic-S instead of the original Matic-J. Any truth to that............???

Yes, this is fact, so use Matic S in your 2nd gen Automatic transmission; I just did my drain/fill today (4 quarts). Use Matic D in the transfer case; did that also (3 quarts).

boilerman
03-22-2009, 07:10 AM
What is thae advantage of drain and fill over flush. Seems like flush (with 2 reovoirs--one with new fluid, and one for collecting old fluid) would be the way to go. If you drain, and then fill, you are running your transmission with low fluid, which dosen't sound like the best/safest alternative to me......I am no mechanic, but with a flush allowing the transmission pump to suck in the new fluid while dumping the old fluid into a seperate resevoir sounds much more efficient, thourough and safe.......Please correct me if I'm wrong.

My mechanic said he put in the Matic-J on the last flush. He has said that he will try it again for me free of charge with the matic-S. He also dropped the pan, cleaned the magnets and the filter/screen last time. Although I have painted a pretty bleak picture of my local mechanic, he is actually quite good and usually as honest as the day is long......So, I feel somewhat comfortable in going back to him for another shot.

He has also mentioned about an additive that's supposed to meke the valves work better in the transmission.....thought is that the valves may be a bit gummed up causing my torque coverter shuddering. MECHCAD2001 mentioned that this may cause more damage than good down the road. Is there an additive that may be safe and worth trying?

I am cheap as well MECHCAD2001, especially when it comes to spending money on a transmission that only has 68,000 miles and has not been treated badly in its life. Seems to me that Nissan should take some ownership in this. Seems almost too coincidental that the transmission starts to fail 5,000 miles after the drive train warranty runs out.......enough to piss-off any normal person.

Thanks for everyones input. Its been very helpful and educational......look forward to hearing any more input on this subject.

-Boilerman

MECHCAD2001
03-22-2009, 07:59 PM
No advantage that I can think of. I agree the transmission flush machine is way more efficient and easy. Unfortunately I don't own one or have access to one. I like to do things myself...so I know it was done right.(correct oil, right oil level etc) I usually can't afford to have something like a transmission go out on me. I am convinced that flushing is the way to go...it removes all the old oil and trash along with it. As long as the pan is cleaned first and it is not a reverse direction flush.

The flush I have tried to describe is a way to do it yourself...without the high dollar equipment. I have never tried it with 2 pans of oil (one for fresh and one for old). I don't know if the transmission pump will suck up the new oil from a pan/bucket. I would be a bit afraid of trash falling into the fresh oil pan. If I could do it that way it would make things easy. The method I have used basically does the same thing, but involves more labor and time. It is money and brains that I am short on. If you don't drain more than you should everything works out fine. I marked my drain pan with a line at the 3 quart level. For refill I use a 2 quart funnel with measurement, screen filter. (Picked it up at Advanced Auto) It has a long hose...with a fitting that fits into the filler tube, I hang it using a bungee cord from the hood.

When I had my transmission apart.....68,000 miles. No fault of Nissan or the design. The valves were very,very clean no gum or trash. In fact inside the control valve assembly they had placed small screens at the fluid inlets to protect the valves and prevent problems. The operating clearances were very very small....any trash or gum will make them jam for sure.

Your truck still shifts into overdrive correct? But it shudders right? So the valves and such are working. I totally agree that your mechanic is probably an alright guy and just made a very common mistake. If he is willing to make it right I think you should let him. He probably feels bad and desires the opportunity to make it right.

The problem is torque converter shudder (I'm pretty sure). Try the re-flush first....then if it does not work you can always use the additive. (but I wouldn't)

I think Nissan recommends transmission fluid change at 30,000 miles? The fluid degrades when it runs longer than that (even if you take it easy). I have had a number of different transmissions apart. As far as I can tell the Xterra has a really good one. I think the correct fluid has a good chance of fixing your issue.

Please let us all know what happens. Maybe we can all learn from your experiences and input.

dezurtrat
03-22-2009, 11:19 PM
I had a machine flush at the dealer. 15k later I dropped the pan and there was allot of metal shavings and gook on the magnets and the bottom of the pan so those machine flushes have there limitations IMHO.

boilerman
03-23-2009, 07:10 AM
Dezurtrat..........do you think the flush forced all that crap into your pan? I think that would be a good thing.....Getting all that crap out of your tranny and into the pan and magnet where it will do less harm....Am I wrong in thniking that? What are the limitations that you speak of???

MikeHenry
06-09-2009, 10:40 AM
Boilerman, I have the exact same problem as you. Please let me know if you have found a solution as I am not getting anywhere with my dealer either.

MECHCAD2001
06-09-2009, 08:58 PM
My vibration was completely addressed when I flushed the tranny. I did the flush myself. I think there is a write up on here somewhere...anyway I have driven 6,000 miles since the flush. The problem has not returned yet. Mine is an 03.

MikeHenry
06-10-2009, 08:00 AM
Thanks MECHCAD2001. I have already sent my Xterra into the dealership this morning becuase I am still under extended warrenty. I'll see what they come up with and see whether its covered. I just did a transmittion fluid change at 97,000/km and it's at 125,000/km now. I didn't do a flush though. A flush would make a big difference you think?

MECHCAD2001
06-11-2009, 04:43 PM
I am convinced that flushing is the way to go (if done correctly). If you just drain the pan and clean the filter you are only changing out 5 qts or so. This new oil soon mixes with the old nasty stuff in the turn converter, pump, and hydraulic circuits. I am not an expert by any means...but it sure made a big difference in my case. I guess you have read on this site about the need to be careful about which fluid you use? Good luck..hope it all works out well.

boilerman
06-15-2009, 09:35 AM
I Have been to a tranny specialist that informed me my tranny problem was caused by a leak in my tranny cooler that allowed engine coolant into my transmission. This ate up my clutch pads on my torque converter. It also ate the brass bushings and caused me to spend about $3k to get it fixed. Easy check is to open your radiator cap and see if you have any white scum in your radiator. Tranny fluid will get pushed into your radiator as there is more pressure from your transmission. When your engine is not running, coolant will leach down into your tranny. The whole prolem stems from a faulty radiator. The radiator is ....top 2/3 for engine coolant and bottom third for cooling tranny fluid. The weld inbetween has been failing and causing fluids to leak back and fourth.......Which reminds me you will also have to have your radiator flushed. Nissan was absolutly no help.....In fact I tell everyone now NOT TO BUY NISSAN... They have lousy support. Seems to me in these times, they would want to build more customer loyalty.....I have been a loyal NISSAN owner for the past 17 years.....NO MORE NISSAN FOR ME!!!!!! Some people have been flushing or changing fluid.....All this does is mask the problem for a while....The damage has already been done. By changing fluid you just make it more slippery in the tranny, which makes the clutch on the torque converter not shudder when it slips......It will come back, and your clutch is still slipping....you just cant feel it anymore. How many miles on your "X" and what year is it???

boilerman
06-15-2009, 09:43 AM
MikeHenry....See my post 6-15-09

MikeHenry
06-23-2009, 10:50 AM
Hey Boilerman! Thanks for that info. I have a 2005 Xterra with 123,000/km or 76,400/miles. (I bought the 160,000 extended warrenty becuase it was the first year with the new model of Xterra and thought there would be problems, Cost approx. $2500 cad) I took it in to the dealership and they first tried balancing and rotating my tires. This was needed anyway so I let that go but didn't fix the problem.
2nd time in they replaced my Radiator exactally for the reasons you said....they flushed the tranny twice as well. Nissan covered the Rad and 1 flush but I had to pay for a flush as well. The service guy said that Nissan will only replace the transmittion under warrenty if I get this done first. I got it done last week and this has made the problem go away at 55/km or 34/mph, BUT now it shudders at 110/km or 68/mph...the shudder is not as bad but has gotten worse even in the week that I have had it back. The dealer said that if I got the rad replaced, and did the flushes, Nisssan tech support said that the next step would be to replace the entire transmittion under warrenty. I took it back in after noticing the shudder at 110/km and they haven't gotten back to me about it. I was verbally guarenteed that after the rad replacement and flushes, if the tranny was still slipping or studdering, it would be replaced. The people at the service desk said that they hadn't heard of the problem before but then I took the mechanic who was a younger kid for a drive to show him the problem at 110/km. He said that they have been getting the tourqe converter/tranny problems in a lot from Pathfinders and Xterra's and said that the damage could be permanent. The Extended Warrenty has saved me big time to this point. I will post what the result is after hearing back about replacing the trasmittion as promised. From what you and the mechanic have said so far, this rad leak has f'd my tranny permanently so I will be pushing them big time to do the right this and replace it under warrenty. The dealership has actually been very good so far but now they are backed into a corner with a very costly tranny. I'll let you know.

yetiman
12-03-2009, 02:11 AM
Had the same problem at 60 mph. Thought it was the mt tires or something. Replaced the front drivetrain and problem was totally fixed.

surfnobc2
12-03-2009, 04:54 PM
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17705

maybe this will help ...

seems to be a thing with 05 model

buckethead47
12-15-2009, 03:35 PM
any one know of 1st gens with the issue of a faulty radiator? because my truck will shutter when on the accelerator be smooth off and clunk coming in and out of o/d but i never turned o/d off to see if thats the issue.

buckethead47
12-15-2009, 04:05 PM
ok so i checked the coolant and it was green so i am good with that issue. so the drive with out o/d for the clunk. if the tranny still clunks after that what should i check?

edscholl66
01-14-2010, 09:30 PM
I just recently purchased mine and am having the same exact issue .I am getting the tranny flushed soon as well as the other drive train fluids replaced, i will let you know if the problems are lessened.

TCarter
03-04-2010, 10:16 AM
[QUOTE=boilerman;146854]I Have been to a tranny specialist that informed me my tranny problem was caused by a leak in my tranny cooler that allowed engine coolant into my transmission. This ate up my clutch pads on my torque converter. It also ate the brass bushings and caused me to spend about $3k to get it fixed. Easy check is to open your radiator cap and see if you have any white scum in your radiator.QUOTE]

I know this thread is older, but I am currently having the same issue on an 05 Xterra SE that I bought two months ago. Ran fine until about two weeks ago. I checked the radiator fluid and there is no film or scum in/on it. So there has to be some other explanation than replace tranny and radiator. I have appt. with dealer next Tuesday and hope to find out more then. I did ask if they had heard of similar issues and they said nothing jumped to mind. Could be BS, but could be this issue isn't as common as we think.

Plus if (sorry I forget who) flushed the system and hasn't had any issues for 6k miles I doubt there would be a liquid leak there or the issue would have came back before that kind of mileage.

Anyone else have any experience with this issue?

TCarter
03-04-2010, 10:18 AM
edscholl66,

What happened with your situation? Did anything get resolved?

MECHCAD2001
03-04-2010, 11:11 AM
Thanks!!!! I will give it a try.

I had my xterra at the stealership this am for unrelated factory recall with the crash zone sensor. I arrived early and was waitiing outside with service tech. He told me that sometimes my problem is caused by the oil cooler in the radiator leaking and allowing coolant into the transmission and vise versa. We checked radiator fluid and transmission fluid and both looked normal. I was told another tell-tale, is an oil residual in your radiator overflow jug. This looked normal as well......

I was hoping for an answer to why my TC suddenly started acting up, but I guess I'm glad it wasn't due to a leaking cooler, as this is a very spendy repair.

I will post again when I finish my second flush with the use of lint-free rags.
Thanks, again.
-Boilerman

You may want to check the radiator and tranny fluid level really closely...Because Boilerman checked it at the beginning of this thread....and later on I think he was told that the radiator had been leaking and caused a problem.

By the way I have 90,000 on mine now....and the torque converter shudder is still gone. Don't drive it if the tranny is in question.

TCarter
03-04-2010, 03:58 PM
Thanks for the input, MECHCAD2001. I did check the fluid levels when I bought it the first of this year and I just checked them again and they are fine. No residue in the radiator or overflow container, just clean green antifreeze. The tranny fluid still looks good too. Good color, no smell, and definitely no water/antifreeze floating in it. I guess I will see what the dealer says next Tuesday and try to limit my miles until then.

Kyle5599
03-04-2010, 08:50 PM
I had the same issue in my 2005 S Xterra at 42,000 miles and it was actually a bent drive shaft from a bad wheel bearing, so you might want to have that checked out. Hopefully you get it figured out!

Barbiegirl3203
03-04-2010, 09:43 PM
I just bought my 2005 Xterra a month ago. As soon as I hit the freeway on my way home from the dealership there was a vibration when the vehicle would shift anywere from 40mph and up. I call the dealership to report it and they had me come back in to check it out. Turns out the radiator was broke and the liquid inside it leaked into the transmission....anywho, a new transmission and new radiator later, all vibration has stopped. Let's hope for your sake, and your wallet's, that your problem isn't this bad!=]

TCarter
03-10-2010, 07:28 AM
Had the truck at the dealer yesterday and they found nothing. I even specifically asked them to check the coolant and tranny fluid to see if there was any leaks. They didn't see anything either. They told me that this overdrive shift issue is common in the Xterra and that they got that informtion directly from the Nissan Help Desk (not sure if that was really what they called it). I plan to do a fluid flush or filter and fluid change.

soccerbrace
03-10-2010, 08:37 AM
You mean the tech line.

edscholl66
03-10-2010, 09:33 AM
had the same issue myself with my 2002. had the tranny flushed and the vibration disappeared....

TCarter
03-11-2010, 07:41 AM
Doing the Tranny Flush ASAP. Waiting for a new catalytic converter from the dealer too. Between the new catalytic converter and the tranny flush (with filter change) I hope all will be back to normal.

TRON
03-14-2010, 09:00 AM
Just bought my 05' Xterra S yesterday. Didn't feel any vibration during my long test drive. On my way home i felt the vibration. Later on that evening on my way to the store, felt it again at probably the 40mph range. The X has 102,000 miles. No telling how long this was going on with the previous owner. I did buy a 3 year warranty though. I'm now nervous to go outside and check the coolant. Dammit!

NoXterra4Me
03-16-2010, 04:21 PM
You have a bad transmission. I m having the same problem with my brand new Nissan Xterra 2006. Took it to my local dealer and they told me bad tranny, two months later a check engine came on, took it to another dealership and same result and they sent me to Cottman Transmission. The first dealership told me that the Radiator went without any warning and antifreeze is mixing up with trans fluid, what a mess. They now want $5,000.00 to fix it.

NoXterra4Me
03-16-2010, 04:25 PM
Don't waste your money doing the flush, you have a bad transmission. What color is your antifreeze. Your radiator went out without notice and it blew the tranny. I have the exact same issue. You need to go to http://www.safecar.gov and file a complaint.

NoXterra4Me
03-16-2010, 04:31 PM
I just paid my 2006 Xterra off and the day I received my Title, I also received confirmation from another dealership that my tranny is bad. The radiator went bad without giving any notice, no overheating or anything, and the tranny fluid mixes with the antifreez, nice milkshake like fluid now. You should report this to HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV, that way Nissan will reimburse you for any inconvenience and expenses incurred.

soccerbrace
03-16-2010, 05:14 PM
I just paid my 2006 Xterra off and the day I received my Title, I also received confirmation from another dealership that my tranny is bad. The radiator went bad without giving any notice, no overheating or anything, and the tranny fluid mixes with the antifreez, nice milkshake like fluid now. You should report this to HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV, that way Nissan will reimburse you for any inconvenience and expenses incurred.

You are really starting to look like a spammer.

NoXterra4Me
03-16-2010, 05:29 PM
This is the case of a dying transmission like my 2006 Xterra, this Nissan defect should be reported to www.safercar.gov, eventually we ll get our money back for buying this piece of junk. This thing happens to All 2005-2009 Frontier, Xterra, PathFinder. Toyota trying to kill us all and Nissan trying to hit our pocket hard. Shame on these Japanese manufacturers

soccerbrace
03-16-2010, 06:13 PM
Hey what was that website again? I wasn't able to catch it the first 3 times.

I think it was www.ghettolowlifeeuropeanhookertrashspammer.com right?

soccerbrace
03-17-2010, 08:38 AM
carry on-these are not the droids you are looking for.

TRON
03-17-2010, 12:42 PM
My roomate(Mechanic at a local Nissan Dealership) after hearing about my problems checked my radiator for issues. Yup nasty white crap all in the cap and all around inside the radiator. I bought my X from a Honda used car lot. I am still waiting to hear back from these guys about bringing my X in for inspection. I bought the Xterra on 3/13/2010. I am starting to get concerned about them finding the correct problem. I don't want to end up paying money for some BS wheel bearing, balancing crap. I love this truck, and i hope they take care of this problem.

Lopez80
03-22-2010, 01:41 PM
I cant believe they didnt recall these radiators or made a statemnet concerning MATIC J;s corosive properties..the reason why they switched to MATIC S...ughhh am i totally screwed?

TCarter
03-22-2010, 09:51 PM
Still having the issue even after the catalytic converter was changed. At least Nissan floated teh bill for that. Still haven't gotten to the tranny flush. Hope to tackle that this weekend. Also, still no sign of white residue in the coolant.

dejablue
03-22-2010, 10:08 PM
why dont you put a aftermarket cooler on the tran before the white shit shows up and the tran is toast?

TRON
03-23-2010, 06:58 AM
I second that.

Bluegrassen
03-23-2010, 08:38 AM
why dont you put a aftermarket cooler on the tran before the white shit shows up and the tran is toast?

Yes, I was wondering if there was anyway to preempt this problem and that sound like a good idea. I was also wondering if some kind of radiator stop leak additive would help.
Wow you guy have really got me worried now. I have had two vehicles so far that had trans problem and I can tell you they are no fun.

Bluegrassen
03-23-2010, 09:10 AM
OK, I went out and looked at the X and I'm not to sure but I believe I already have a separate trans fluid cooler. I traced the lines and they go back under the engine and connect to two steel lines. I will investigate further but if anyone is sure let me know. I'm pretty sure its not an engine oil cooler.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l146/Bluegrassen/100_5665.jpg

dejablue
03-23-2010, 09:15 AM
sorry if i sounded like a smart ass , i regretted my comment as some as i hit enter but i hate to see you mess up a good tran knowing that the rad is going to fail some day. so why not fix it before it does ,dont put any stop leak or any thing else but antifreeze or water in the rad it will come back and bite you down the road. here is link to a low cost cooler and if you want up grade go to b&m tran they have nothing but class a stuff. if you do a search on trans cooler install there is how to do. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4110/

dejablue
03-23-2010, 09:17 AM
send a .pm to fzzt im not sure on the 2 gen if its a oil cooler or trans cooler

Bluegrassen
03-23-2010, 09:23 AM
Let us know.
Yeah I know its not a good idea to use stop leak, I was just throwing ideas out. Everyone knows your a smart ass anyway.:mocking:

Bluegrassen
03-23-2010, 12:51 PM
Checked a little further on this and it does appear that this is a trans oil cooler. But it is not a closed system. It looks like it is a secondary cooler. One line from the trans runs into this cooler and the other runs into the radiator and the radiator and this cooler are tied together with a line. Go figure. Wonder if I can flush this cooler out and reroute the line going into the radiator into this cooler? In affect bypassing the radiator.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/xterra-parts-n50-2005-2010/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/310-auto-transmissiontransaxle-fitting/-c-533_534_667_672.html

TCarter
03-23-2010, 03:37 PM
Tomorrow I am going to do the Transmission flush and install the transmission cooler to my 2005 SE. I hope to still use this exterior cooler plus the one I install. Do you see any reason this will not work or will potentially cause issues?

TCarter
03-23-2010, 06:57 PM
My concern is that I will lower the operational temperature too low. Also is there any write-ups or how tos that people know of for installing the trans fluid cooler with bypassing the radiator and still using the other external cooler?

dejablue
03-23-2010, 07:15 PM
the tran will thank for being cooler i see no problem with your plan.

wedjy
03-24-2010, 01:38 PM
I have a 2002 Xterra two wheel drive and I too have this issue. Specifically when the vehicle is going into overdrive. If overdrive is turned off so is the vibration. To me it seems to be coming from the rearend but that might be wishfull thinking hoping to not say the T-word (transmission). From what I'm reading it is suggested to replace tranmission fluid, is this correct? Should the filter be replaced as well?

Thanks

dejablue
03-24-2010, 01:55 PM
either change the filter or clean , dont use any lint rags near the open tran it will plug up the valve body.

dstout
03-24-2010, 06:05 PM
i have the same problem. i was told its the dispus coupler on the end of the drive shaft, because i lifted the rear i changed the angle of the drive shaft just enough to cause a viration. so ill drive it till it brakes and have a new driveshaft made with a pair of ujoints for the rear.

dejablue
03-24-2010, 07:07 PM
thats a bad decision to fix the u-joint now is about 50dl if you drop the drive shaft is going to cost 600dl plus and if the shaft hits the gas tank it could put a hole in the tank or come thru the floor and injure some one in side the truck.

TCarter
03-25-2010, 08:51 AM
Did a drain and fill, due to the dealer giving me the wrong gasket for the pan. I also affectively bypassed the radiator. The transmission cooling lines now go through two external coolers in front of the radiator (factory one and the aftermarket I purchased). I will see if the vibration goes away with just a drain and fill. That only replaced 6 quarts of the 12 that the system holds (50% new). If the vibration is still there I will try to do another drain and fill with a screen and pan cleaning (75% new). Thoughts?

TCarter
03-26-2010, 09:39 PM
Vibration at 45 with overdrive shifting in and out almost completely gone after the drain and fill. I am almost sure that once I do another drain and fill with the screen and pan cleaning I will be good to go. I appreciate all of the insight and help. Plus I do feel a lot more secure with two external transmission oil coolers rather than the line running through the radiator. $40 is a pretty cheap insurance policy, right dejablue!

dejablue
03-27-2010, 05:07 PM
sounds good !

Lopez80
03-29-2010, 01:05 AM
ok had all the problems stated b4.white sludge in radiator..with transmission shutter..got a new radiator, flushed and cleaned the tranny..flushed cooling system...got it back from the shop..drove ok for a bit then drove an hour or so to pasadena then i went to pass someone then the rpms went all over the place like the trans was slipping or not engaging..any ideas it did it three more times...then fine on the way home...new tranny???? any info thanks

revhi
03-30-2010, 07:31 PM
Hi im new here. Ive been lurking for a while. I just bought a 05 X with 57k yesterday. I felt vibration at exactly 40 mph and over on the way home. Sounded like rumble strips. I was pretty pissed after reading this thread. I work for an aftermarket shop and we deal with a local Nissan dealer, Cherry Hill Nissan in NJ. I did not buy it from them, but I had their service check out the truck for me anyway since we do all their remote starts. The service writer said right away that he doubts its the dreaded "contamination" issue. Hes only seen it happen about 10 times. He suggested it was the u joints. I get a call about 3 hours later telling me they fixed the truck and I can pick it up. I asked what the charge was cause I did not authorize anything. My rep says that he took care of everything under powertrain warranty even though I didnt buy it from them. They replaced front drive shaft, rear u joint, and propeller shaft. Plus they did a crash zone sensor recall all under warranty. I cant tell you how relieved I was that it wasnt the trans.

I want to do the bypass to be safe, but most of you guys seem to be in the south. How will the bypass effect the trans in NJ where it can get real cold and real hot? Also, I only drive the X on weekends towing a boat and snowboarding. If I do drive it to work, its only 1 mile away so its never going to warm up properly. Are there any downfalls in my situation?

dstout
03-30-2010, 10:56 PM
im new here also, and just installed a rancho qiuck lift and a 2"bl thats when all this vibration crap started. step on the gass and just before it down shifts,, vrrrrp then it goes away when. it happed almost everytime i hit the gass. did the replacement of the rear ujoint and rear propeller fix the problems. i do seriousely need a total fluid change and flush on top of the vib, ill do this first to see if the problem goes away. i wouldnt say the sound is like rumble strips, but thier is dif a vibration. any input would be helpfull. illl post pics when im done with it. thanks

TCarter
03-31-2010, 01:16 PM
1st I live in SW Michigan, so up to and sometimes over 100 in summer and singles to below 0 in winter at times. I get the extreme weather concerns, but the cooler the better is what I was told/researched with ATF. Two external coolers will do better than a radiator and one external cooler in my opinion. I just did a drain and fill with a radiator bypass. This way the ATF runs through the original external transmission oil cooler and then through an aftermarket one that I put on before heading back to the transmission. The original drain and fill got rid of the OverDrive shudder I was experiencing. But to be a little more thorough I dropped the pan last night cleaned it and filled again. Should be good to go for a while and it wasn't very difficult at all.

KAYSXTERRA
03-31-2010, 02:47 PM
I have an 05 with 70,000 miles. I have the rumbling sound when I hit 45mph. My rad fluid got mixed with my tranny fluid and after several tranny flushes my tranny went. I noticed a few days after the rumbling sound came back but realy light. Eventually the rumbling came back just the same. I'm also noticing when I step on the gas the the engine doesn't seem to get all of the power right away (nothing really noticable but I feel it) My tranny is still under warranty. Not sure if I should just take it to the dealership or if that's a tranny problem. Please let me know if I'm not clear about something....
Thanks in advance :)

dstout
04-01-2010, 05:21 PM
well my problems got worst today still got the vibration, and on top of that shifted into 4wlow today and it didnt sound good, and im stuck in 4high and the on screan display is out. ha almost forgot shifting real hard. off to the dealer with it. im sure this wont be cheep.

TRON
04-01-2010, 05:57 PM
I have an 05 with 70,000 miles. I have the rumbling sound when I hit 45mph. My rad fluid got mixed with my tranny fluid and after several tranny flushes my tranny went. I noticed a few days after the rumbling sound came back but realy light. Eventually the rumbling came back just the same. I'm also noticing when I step on the gas the the engine doesn't seem to get all of the power right away (nothing really noticable but I feel it) My tranny is still under warranty. Not sure if I should just take it to the dealership or if that's a tranny problem. Please let me know if I'm not clear about something....
Thanks in advance :)

I would take it to the dealership. Now will they fix it under warranty? That's a different question. They could come back and say that it was a cooling component that caused the tranny problem, and deny the warranty work. I really don't know, i would definitely give it a shot though. It could save you thousands. Good luck. :D

dstout
04-01-2010, 06:58 PM
WHAT NOW!!! i was reading some of these posts trying to figuer out what could be wrong. i read a post about coolent getting into the trany fluid, look in the overfill bottle to see what you see it said.i did i say sluge whiteish/ yellow. could someone help me understand what this means and what they think its going to cost. i did have the collent system flushed this past winter because it would not blow hot air (local dealer) and at that time they sugested to change me diffs and trany fluid,also tc. i choose not to do it at that time. because of other mods, did i make it worst.


symptoms:
shifts hard
vibrates in rear od on od off
vib at 40 mph
vib on exceleration
lowgear buzz
stuck in 4wh high
slip comes on sometimes on corners

TRON
04-01-2010, 07:12 PM
The radiator is leaking coolant into the transmission and tranny fluid into the radiator, giving your coolant a greyish, white-ish, creamy color. Some people on here say, after seeing that your tranny is pretty much toast. Some others say after they did a radiator flush, and a tranny flush, plus bypassed the radiator and just used the stock tranny cooler everything got better. And some say after doing all of the previously mentioned, things got better then got bad.....leading to having to buy a new tranny. Where your X falls under.....not sure. I would get it looked at. I am in the same boat, except i am pretty sure my tranny is toast. I am gonna bypass the radiator and just use the stock tranny cooler and get everything flushed just to see what happens. If the tranny is screwed i am gonna drive it until it won't drive anymore, then spring for a new tranny.

dstout
04-01-2010, 08:21 PM
ugh man this sucks, but thanks for insite let the game begin

dstout
04-01-2010, 08:22 PM
how much $$ will this cost

dstout
04-02-2010, 01:19 PM
just dropped the x off at the dealership, and explained to the service tech all the issuse that need to be addresed, wow he siad wonder if they are all related.. lets hope. ill keep everyone updated. new rad, ext tranny cooler double flush. change all fluids.. ALL FLUIDS!! it needed it anyway. thats the first step. tell you how much later

TRON
04-02-2010, 02:24 PM
Good luck dude, yeah let me know how much the flush cost, how much fluids you had to buy yadayada. I hope everything works out for you.

bethmarie_2
04-19-2010, 01:45 PM
I have a 2005 Xterra with 113,000 miles on it. I have been having these problems for a while now. Started at 102,000. Had the trans serviced once and the problem went away for about three weeks. Then vibration came back. Had the problem diagnosed b/c temperature started to go up and was barely any coolant in my radiator but a white film at the top. They said the coolant with trans fluid or vice versa. Took to my mechanic and they flushed the trans and said it didn't seem to be the trans cooler and the problem went away. He put additive in to help. Couple days later, problem is back but not as bad so going to take everyone's comments to him so he can figure this out. Will keep you posted.

Loki512
04-19-2010, 08:31 PM
bethmarie, it sounds like you have an on-going leak. you may need to replace the radiator. if you don't then the fluids will continue to mix. if you do the bypass and still don't replace the radiator then the coolant will leak into the circuit for the ATF and possibly boil out.

bottom line, you NEED a new radiator and at least 2 drain and fills on the ATF, i hope that saves your transmission because that is really expensive. also, when they change the ATF make sure they add Matic-S, there are rumors that the Matic-J is the cause of this, not the radiator, though Nissan will say otherwise . . .

bethmarie_2
04-21-2010, 01:52 PM
Loki512 - Thanks for the info, i will pass this onto my mechanic and keep you guys posted on how this goes

dejablue
04-21-2010, 03:13 PM
if you dont get the problem fixed soon you will be buying a new transmission.

dstout
04-21-2010, 10:12 PM
i can tell you. it cost me 1500 bucks at the local dealer, drove for about 150 miles, then decided to look in the overflow WTF sluge is back . i replaced to rad installed a second external cooler, flushed engine, and double flushed the tranny, bypassed the rad so how how how is this possable im soo pissed.

TRON
04-26-2010, 02:33 PM
I had my stock radiator replaced, flushed tranny once and there is now only a slight vibration. Gonna flush again and see what happens.

dstout
04-27-2010, 09:54 PM
i took it back and sad what i had to say. they did redo everything no charge. flushed tranny two extera times. total flushes 4. vibration is still there, tranny shop said a soft overhaul will correct the damage that the coolent created, while hes in their im having a shift kit installed. as for the sludge in the engine nissan tripled flushed the engine and could not get rid of the sludge, they said it was cooked into the system and the only way to get it all out was to tare down they engine bolie the engine and replace all colent parts. tooo pricy for me. they said all will be fine with the coolent system. tranny seems to be fine put a thou miles on it this weekend. vib has not gotten worst and it shifts fine , but im not taking any chanchs

Rook
04-29-2010, 01:45 PM
this is a very common problem among gen2's....there is a bypass mod out there that everyone with gen2's out of warranty should be doing....it bypasses the internal transmission fluid loop IN the radiator and It prevents the fluids from EVER mixing...for more info check here:
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26991&highlight=transmission+fluid
and here:
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25955&highlight=transmission+fluid

dstout
04-29-2010, 06:32 PM
thanks for the post wish i knew about this earlyer, the tranny is the issue now

jltunme
05-07-2010, 10:27 PM
Any one that has this has a radiator leak into the tranny and viseversa.

rpecot
05-10-2010, 10:43 AM
I have an 05 with 106k miles. I had the radiator problem everyone is talking about. New radiator, transmission flush. I'm getting vibration around 60mph. Dealership says it's my u-joints. Showed me the play and rust slung from the journals on the underbody. I'm tired of putting money into this vehicle. Probably going to trade it in.

dcaslin
03-08-2011, 01:07 PM
So I have a 2005 w/ 70k miles on it. Luckily I have the extended warranty (and it looks like the Nissan warranty applies to me as well). I have the rumble and the radiator gunk and I'm scheduled to drop off at the dealer tonight. Any tips on what I should make sure they do (demand a new transmission or extended trans warranty)? Has Nissan actually fixed the design issue or will this happen again even if they fix everything?

dcaslin
03-10-2011, 07:48 AM
Well, that went well. Getting a new transmission, radiator and a few other parts under the radiator extended warranty (since I was under 80k). They're also fixing my U-Joints under my extended warranty and hooking us up w/ a rental. Total charge should be $50 deductible for the U-Joints. According to the dealer the new radiators are from a different supplier and shouldn't have the same problems...

pooks
03-21-2011, 02:41 PM
i'm having this very same issue. i'm not exactly handy when it comes to cars, and i'm worried about what it'll cost me to fix :-\

pooks
03-25-2011, 01:09 PM
i got mine back from a tranny shop yesterday. they confirmed that it at least is not because the radiator fluid is mixing in with the tranny. they're going to change the fluid, filter and add an anti-vibration/shudder type liquid. they're not 100% it'll fix it, but they seem to think it will. another tranny shop i spoke to today said the same

adamh1281
03-16-2014, 10:48 AM
I'm aware that this is an old thread, but it was on the home page, and I'm having a similar problem, and I have a video of my drive shaft doing some pretty funky vibrations. 2003 2wd 2.4L xterra.
http://youtu.be/Sx4hTc9jlIc

Barbiegirl3203
03-16-2014, 08:04 PM
I ended up taking my rig to the dealership for them to look at since it was still under warranty. I think they replaced the transmission and everything else that went along with that. Thank goodness it was under warranty!!