When the engine is cold or cool it starts and runs fine, but after driving for 20-30 minutes, if you shut it off it won't crank back up. You have to let it sit for 30 minutes or so to get it to crank back up. Also it stalled out while at a red light after a 30 minute drive and wouldn't restart until it cooled down.

The check engine light isn't on, and the temp gauge is normal.

it turns over fine - just won't start. sometimes when hot it will start for a few seconds then stall out.

If it's at least trying to start when hot, it means your solenoid is good. I'd guess you're starter is just gunked up or on it's last leg. Check/clean your battery connections and see if that helps any. Are you running the nissan stock battery? how old is the one you've got? Could just be a cheap battery that doesn't perform when hot.

If it's at least trying to start when hot, it means your solenoid is good. I'd guess you're starter is just gunked up or on it's last leg. Check/clean your battery connections and see if that helps any. Are you running the nissan stock battery? how old is the one you've got? Could just be a cheap battery that doesn't perform when hot.

No, then engine turns over fine. It just won't fire. So its not a starter or battery issue.

oh, ok... it's not like a slow start issue? mybad.

Is it overheating at all, or running normal temperatures?

In the mean time, you can run the heater while waiting. It will only help a little, but hey.

When you turn your key to the ON position (not trying to start it) do all the lights come on in your cluster? What I am talking about is you have the battery light, the CEL, the seatbelt, the low gas level lights. They come on for a second just to show you if it is working. While doing this does you CEL light come just to show you that it is working? Next time it does is cranking but not turning over. just turn the Key to ON and see if that CEL flashes or not.

oh, ok... it's not like a slow start issue? mybad.

Is it overheating at all, or running normal temperatures?

Normal Temperatures, and I had a mechanic verify that the temperature sensor is ok, and that the cooling system is working properly.

In the mean time, you can run the heater while waiting. It will only help a little, but hey.

When you turn your key to the ON position (not trying to start it) do all the lights come on in your cluster? What I am talking about is you have the battery light, the CEL, the seatbelt, the low gas level lights. They come on for a second just to show you if it is working. While doing this does you CEL light come just to show you that it is working? Next time it does is cranking but not turning over. just turn the Key to ON and see if that CEL flashes or not.

Yes, the instrument cluster lights come on when the key is in the ON position. I am pretty sure the CEL light is on steady - not flashing, but I'll check for sure this afternoon.

If it is flashing would that indicate that a code has been triggered??

I've been hoping for a code to tell me if I have a bad CPS or something, but have assumed that one hasn't been thrown because the CEL light is off during normal driving.

You're going to hate my suggestions....

Bad fuel pump...unlikely but check the pressure. The fuel pump shouldn't really be affected by the engine temp.

Bad distributor. Last winter seemed to be the season for them. They seem to have a variety of symptoms and the lack of a hot start could be one of them.

No, what I mean is when all the other lights come on as a check, does the CEL come on with it. It should. If when you cannot start it, that CEL does not come on when in the on position, that is an indication of something else.

What is your location and what is the temperature where you are at?

I'm in the southeast, the temps have been in the mid 70s.

check out the regional forums for members nearby you in the SE.

It is sounding like a relay to me. Sometimes they get really hot. Also, check for spark.

You're going to hate my suggestions....

Bad fuel pump...unlikely but check the pressure. The fuel pump shouldn't really be affected by the engine temp.

Bad distributor. Last winter seemed to be the season for them. They seem to have a variety of symptoms and the lack of a hot start could be one of them.

You're pretty good. It's at the dealer, and the first thing they thought it was was the distributor. They tried a new distributor and had the same problem. So now they are saying it's the fuel pump and that the thermostat isn't opening up all of the way.

They want $600 to replace the fuel pump and $200 for the thermostat.

I told them no thanks.

with all respect, did you put the filter in the right way? There is an arrow indication direction.

with all respect, did you put the filter in the right way? There is an arrow indication direction.

fuel filter??? the fuel system hasn't been touched yet.

if you turn your x on just to the start position the fuel pump will turn on for 5 seconds i believe it sounds like a low whine if you get underneath your car and someone does it then you can at least make sure its turning on.

How old is your air filter? Have you tried that? Also, clean your air inlet temperature sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.

I would definitely check out the distributor. I had the same problem and I went on thinking that it was the fuel pump/filter. I brought it to the shop and they said that it had a bad Knock sensor (which regulates the fuel/air that goes into your engine for max. performance.). The knock sensor stores a code, yet doesn't turn on the check engine light. They replaced it, let it run for about 20 minutes. I went to leave, turned it on and it was worse than before (rpm's would fluctuate and the thing would eventually die.) I left it there and they said it was the distributor coil. The parts ran me (I think) $300 for the dist. coil and around $150 for the Knock (from AdvancedAuto). After they replaced the distributor coil (and the knock) it runs fine. Just for the record I have a '00 with a 3.3 V6. Hope this helps.