My X is not running as i posted in another post.

I was told to check for a spark.

I picked up a 12 volt checker the guy at the auto parts store says this was what i needed.

It is like a screwdriver with a sharp point and i light built into the base of it and a wire with a clip on the end.

I hook the clip to the body of the car.
Then when i toutch it to the + side of the battery it lights up.

Now for testing the cars spark.

With it clipped to the car body i stuck the screwdriver point end into one of the spark plug wires i undid from the cap and tried to start the car.
We see no light it is not lighting up.
I then tried placing the screwdriver end into one of the spark plug cap holes and tried that and it will still not light up.

My ? is
am i doing this right to test for a spark. this did not have any instrustion with it for testing for a spark.
Do i even have the right tester?

If i am doing this right (well it's not working)..
What next... what might be wrong that i can check and fix or replace???
Thanks

The spark is generated from the Distributor Cap, you cannot detect one with the wire disconnected from the cap. I've only once used one of those testers years ago but I'm pretty sure that I just touched that sensor wire end to the outside of a spark plug wire while the engine is running and everything was still connected. I've usually just licked my hand a little and felt the electrical shock when I grabbed ahold of a spark wire with one hand and the other hand on the fender for ground because the spark could be felt through the wire's insulation.

Thats just a test light. you can use it but its not the best. They didnt have any inline spark testers? I wouldnt suggest grabbing it though. 50,000 plus voltags is common on todays vehicles. if not over 100,000 so you might not like the feeling of that going through you.

we have always just taken out the spark plug and set it on the motor and while you are cranking it over it should spark... and if you do touch it you will get bit.... LOL

you could do that too. just dont hold on to any part of the car especially the motor to avoid 'getting bit" as jason so wisely put it. lol

and just let me tell you when it bites you you will know it.. LOL i dont know how many times i have gotten "BIT" LOL

I did more testing with this screwdriver light thing and i can not get it to light up.

Looking in this book i have
I then tested the wires that plug into the side of the disrtibutor and the one wire dose have power going to it as it should.
But i can not seem to find the coil in this book it is a bit mixed up showing both 4 and 6 cyl versions that are both different.
What i see in the photo i do not see in my car.

So how can i test my coil V6 version 2001 4x4???

Going to see if i can find a inline tester to make sure on the spark...

easy way take out the plug and keep the wire attached, crank engine but do not hold onto the plug or wire, place it on a rubber mat as u do it and see if you see a spark also did you check that ur getting fuel to the engine at the injectors

easy way take out the plug and keep the wire attached, crank engine but do not hold onto the plug or wire, place it on a rubber mat as u do it and see if you see a spark also did you check that ur getting fuel to the engine at the injectors

No, you have to ground it,and threading it into the block is what grounds it. that is why everyone is saying ground it to the block

Eddie, like Ian said, you have a test light. I do not recommend this for spark plug wire testing. Ask for an inline spark plug wire tester. pull one wire off of the distributor cap and put the tester in between the two.:)

agreed with james... its the same way to do it.. LOL

Not to mention, you may have cooked your test light, lol, They are good only from about 6v-24v and if you tried to test for spark your running about 50,000v to it, lol.

Ok i did get a inline spark plug wire tester. It looks like a spark plug with a ground clamp on it.

Bad news.. i tested two different wires and nothing no spark..

So now what.. is my distributor shot? .. Any way to test it.
The parts store says around $340 for a new one with new rotor and cap.
I would hate to buy one only to find out that it is still something else.

What would make it go bad??

Any other sugestions..
I need to get it back on the road soon and then have a new timing belt put on.

Thanks.

PS test light still works to i guess it did not get any power to blow it..no spark

Cool, lucky, lucky, lucky, lol.

A repair manual will tell you each part and how to test each piece.

Start checking wrecking yards for one. Make sure your power going in is good first though.

Where exactly did you ground it to when you tested it?

did you put the ground to the motor?????

Yea, I wouldn't be surprised if the distributor went. Don't you have 110k or something? They seem to go around about 100k.

Yeah, I remember you said that you ground it to body. I just want to make sure that you did not ground it to a painted surface. It must be BARE METAL.

Looks like it's the second year of "distributor season".

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_1.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_3.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_4.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_5.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_6.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a50/dezurtrat/Xterra/CPS_7.jpg

Still not fixed..
I have not got a new distributor yet i am thinking i will buy one $300 and then that will not be what was wrong..
I had just saved up to buy the car so i do not have much extra $$ right now for a ton of parts.
But i did just order a
Equus 3100 Innova Diagnostic Code Reader with Memory Backup for OBDII

Do you know if a code reader will tell me if its my distributor for sure????

Yeah, it should. One other thing, does your battery start dying after cranking? Als what happens when you try to jump start it with jumper cables?

Still not fixed..
I have not got a new distributor yet i am thinking i will buy one $300 and then that will not be what was wrong..
I had just saved up to buy the car so i do not have much extra $$ right now for a ton of parts.
But i did just order a
Equus 3100 Innova Diagnostic Code Reader with Memory Backup for OBDII

Do you know if a code reader will tell me if its my distributor for sure????
$300 ???? :eek: It's only $20-$30 for a new Distributor Cap Assembly, you might want to check if the Rotator Head is included since it's referred to as an "Assembly". It's usually only the contacts inside the cap and sometimes on the rotator head that get worn.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/xterra-wd22-2000-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/engine-electrical/221-distributor/-c-532_14_47_49.html

No, the Nissan distributors are pretty pricey. I think $200 -300 is what people were paying. Check the thread above as I added all the info about the camshaft position sensor. It's in the distributor and when it fails it won't start. Seems the last couple of years there has been a rash of them failing as all the Xterras get older (gen 1s).

Nissan Distributor (http://www.thecarpartwarehouse.com/nissan-frontier-pickup-quest-xterra-distributor-dtr--58916-item.html)

So, the whole Distributor has to be replaced??? :eek: I've usually just replaced the cap and Rotator Head on my past cars. Any idea what else besides the electrical contacts on top are going bad in it??

You mean rotor;)?

Yea, I mean Rotor but Nissan seems to like to call it a Rotor-Head for some reason. You know how they have their own names for everything that make no sense to the rest of us. :rolleyes:

A lot of them have built in igniters and coils, like on the 95 up KA24DE. It's all stuffed inside of there, lol.

No wonder they went to Distributor-less on the 2nd gens. Now, I'm glad I don't have a distributor on either of my cars after reading that.