I am planning on picking up a used Shrock bumper this weekend. It's for made for a non-body lifted X. I have a 2" body lift on mine. I was curious as to how any of you relocated your shrock style bumpers to close up that gap a bit.

Pics would be awesome.

Drbandkgb relocated an ARB he could prob help you out

My friend with a welder and who can weld, Dave from Bandit4x4 (http://bandit4x4.com/), had promised to move my Shrock bumper up awhile back to get rid of my ghetto gap and maybe gain an inch or two on my approach angle. Dave had the angle plates cut and ready to go on when I got to his shop. We got the bumper off easily with his engine hoist. He welded the plates onto the wire brushed frame horns; we positioned the bumper and clamped it in place. He drilled four new holes through the bumper and the plates. Then we pulled it back off, wire brushed and spray painted everything, lined it up again and ran some grade 8 hardware. I drilled one more hole per side through one of the pre existing holes in the bumper into the frame horns and put another bolt per side, rewired the fog lights, CB antenna, PA and gave the whole mess another coat of spray paint on.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/BklynX_photo/Mods/DSC_0126.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/BklynX_photo/Mods/DSC_0129.jpg

Poser shot in the garage of the relocated Shrock bumper;
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/BklynX_photo/Mods/DSC_0123.jpg

Before relocation;
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/O1SalsaX/A2AA4232.jpg

I have since winched myself and others out of being stuck many times without issue.

Poser shot in the garage of the relocated Shrock bumper;
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/BklynX_photo/Mods/DSC_0123.jpg

Before relocation;
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/O1SalsaX/A2AA4232.jpg

I have since winched myself and others out of being stuck many times without issue.

Making me want to the BL and Shrock stat!!!!:love2-big:

I did mine about like Tom did his, only not all on the same day....and w/o the added bracing.

:D



On day one, ALL I did was make new holes in the frame horns ~ 1.25" higher.

I didn't make them 2" higher, because I planned for body flex that occurs off road...and that gave me 3/4" of fudge factor for flexing w/o hitting sheet metal.

The two side holes were simple...I just measured up 1.25", and drilled new holes, DONE.

I then welded an "L" on top of the frame horn, with a hole in it 1.25" higher than the oem hole in the end of the frame horn.

That gave me the two side holes, and the one front hole, to position the Shrock...and that was that for height adjustment.

I later added a "V" shaped brace from the cross member to the frame horn ends to reinforce it...not because I was seeing flex on the horns on winching, etc....as much as I kept hitting deer with the bumper, and was worried about catching one at a bad angle....as I am not a lucky person.

Years after that, I also added a section of angle iron across the horn to horn span to protect the space/triangulate the mount.



Raising an ARB was harder, as we found that the mounting wings had to be cut-off, and a complete replacement brace was needed, as those wings that mount back onto the frame horns are critical to its strength....so, its a LOT MORE work to get an ARB raised for a BL...doable, but harder than the simple steps to do the Shrock. (And the new Shrocks come with a set of holes for the BL, so the new ones don't need ANY work...)



http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6221/6312834560_68d35956cd_o.jpg
Before the bumper raising...with the "Gap".

:D


http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6113/6312315195_2487373c54_o.jpg
What the new higher side of frame horn bolt points looked like.


http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6058/6312835152_dd0ff50a1d_o.jpg
What the "L" welded to the top of the frame horn front looked like...for the front bolt.


http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6052/6312834904_9f0cd9c65c_o.jpg
What the "V" welded to the cross member to the fronts of the frame horns looked like.



http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5002322437_ec853335ed_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/5198476714_c78737da87_o.jpg
What the angle iron across the front of the horns looked like.

Thanks TJ and Tom. It sounds like there is no way to really keep the structural integrity in tack without welding some sort of support on. I really need to learn to weld!

Looks like I will be driving around with a gap for a while until I can find a solution similar to one of yours.

Yeah, the problem is that by moving the bumper up you are also moving the location of the load in a tow, winch or lift of the truck from the bumper. It would no longer be in line with the frame but above it. Those frame horns are also designed to crumple so they're not as strong as they would be otherwise.
IMHO ya need to weld...

Thanks TJ and Tom. It sounds like there is no way to really keep the structural integrity in tack without welding some sort of support on. I really need to learn to weld!

Looks like I will be driving around with a gap for a while until I can find a solution similar to one of yours.

Frankly, you could simply bolt on the front hole angle iron by sleeving the end of the frame horn, and need no welding at all.

Some people have done that, and no one has had a problem that I know of with that solution.

:D

If you have a welder, well, its like having a hammer, you LOOK for nails...but its not the ONLY solution.

:D


And, for the record....if there's a welding shop in your area...those L tabs would cost you maybe $25-75 at most.

And, for the record....if there's a welding shop in your area...those L tabs would cost you maybe $25-75 at most.

Concept Customs and Hefty are both out here. :)

I just picked up the bumper. TJ, I like your solution with the L tabs. Would redrilling the holes up and adding these tabs be sufficient, or do you think that support brace you put in is a must have?

Also, the non-welding sleeve scenario you described, can you explain that a little more. I'm confused as to how to do this.

Concept Customs and Hefty are both out here. :)

I just picked up the bumper. TJ, I like your solution with the L tabs. Would redrilling the holes up and adding these tabs be sufficient, or do you think that support brace you put in is a must have?

Also, the non-welding sleeve scenario you described, can you explain that a little more. I'm confused as to how to do this.

Sleeving a frame horn is slipping a 3-4 sided box over it, and bolting or welding this box to the horn to reinforce it.

You can bolt the sleeve on via washered through-bolts (Through the horns), and then install braces between or across the horns using the sleeve for support.

If the end has the moral equivalent of the "L" tab to put a hole up where you need it in front, its a fairly streamlined solution.


NOTE:

The bumper ITSELF braces the fronts of the frame horns across the bumper face...and the large mounting plates that you bolt to the frame horns also brace them.

The Mounting Plates on the Shrock are also the recovery tabs in front....they are two solid slabs of 3/8" metal that pass through the bumper, and become the mounting points as well as boxing the bumper frame...

So, by simply BOLTING ON the bumper, you have a triangulated frame horn mount, which is very strong.


Being huge fans of over engineering though...most of us elect to add MORE reinforcement "just in case".

:D

By the time you sleeve the horns and mount the front/side bumper mounts....its an incredibly strong mount.

:D

I guess the AC relocation brackets that I already have aren't good enough either lol. I'm going to try to figure out this sleeve thing. I'm still not 100% clear on it TJ, but I'll post again if I can't figure it out. Thanks for your help!

I guess the AC relocation brackets that I already have aren't good enough either lol. I'm going to try to figure out this sleeve thing. I'm still not 100% clear on it TJ, but I'll post again if I can't figure it out. Thanks for your help!

Sleeving is like armoring the horn, but with some extra sticking out to attach stuff too.

:D

Anyone else have pics of the sleeving option or do their relocation a different way?

Next Sunday I am probably going to meet with a Ronin guy to weld a solution up.

Quick Question along these lines:

When you replaced the bolts with the grade 8 hardware, what are the sizes of the bolts that are used to hold the bumper? I broke one taking off the stock bumper and I figured there's more knowledge on here then taking one of the bolts to home depot