I own a 2004 stick shift Xterra with a bit less than 70000 on it. For the first 2 months that I owned it, I couldn't complain.

One day when I turned the ignition after work, it wouldn't start. The lights came on, there was no tell-tale clicking, the radio was fine, etc. No turn over, not a sound, just a fully lit up panel and no cranking. I got jumped and it cranked fine. Stopped to pick up my daughter got back in, no crank. Got another jump and drove it to my mechanic. Battery, alternator, etc. checked out fine. He figured I must've drained the battery somehow and I assumed I left the back hatch up.

Two days later. Same problem. I jump it with my other car since I'm home (Nissan 240) and take it to Autozone. They say it's the alternator. I purchase one on the spot, have it installed, and it cranks right up....until the next day. I jump it again and take it to my mechanic. He says it's a bad wire or part in the starter or something. He gets the part, fixes it. I'm golden for about a week.

I come out after a movie with the fam and yep, it won't start. Same as always: lights, etc. work, radio works. Except this time, I can't get it jumped. I call my roadside assistance. The guy who comes up can't get it jumped so he looks under the car and says that a wire was loose. He temp fixes it and tells me to take it to my mechanic for a permanent fix. It cranks right up, I'm elated!!! My mechanic finds the wire the guy spoke up. Does a perm fix in about 20 minutes and I'm on my way.

Two weeks of no problems. I finally relax and yesterday it won't start when I come out to head back to work after lunch. Jump is unsuccessful. My mechanic says he'll come by after a meeting and has gone awol. He is probably sick of this car. I fiddle underneath looking for the wire. Try to jump it again. No dice.

Then, this morning, it cranks right up.

I've read every relevant thread in the 34 pages here. One came close but isn't quite the same.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Battery is new. Alternator is new. Starter is new. Wire underneath fixed (not sure which wire it was). What next?

Check the neutreal safety switch on the clutch pedal.

Ok, let's go over the starting/charging system for a minute.

The battery

There is a ground from the negative terminal that is grounded directly to the block. there is no good direct route for the wire, so it goes to the fender well first and then to the block. I am going to recommend brass clamps to everyone that I run into, They always seem to solve starting/charging problems for me. I had my girlfriend buy some for her car yesterday.

You need to pull the ground wire off and clean off every but of it where it contacts metal. You HAVE to have a good ground.

As far as grounds for the Alternator, there is a ground wire coming off of the alternator that goes directly up to the driver's side fender well.

This wire is actually pointless and you can remove it if you want. I would actually. The reason it is pointless is because the alternator is grounded by the bolts that attach it to the block. So to make sure that has a good ground, you should double check the tightness of the alternator to the block.

While you are at it, go ahead and check the tension on the alternator belt.

Also, since they had you replace the alternator for no good reason, take it back and put an alternator from an 03' Nissan quest in there. It will put out 125 amps opposed to 80. You could possibly have a 95 amp alternator but that is uncertain. Regardless, it is a direct bolt on that will require no alterations whatsoever.

There are 2 positive wires coming off of the battery

1 comes off of the + battery terminal and goes to the alternator.

1 comes off of the + batttery terminal and goes to the starter.

buy a digital mulitmeter for cheap at walmart or target or even harbor freight. Make sure that there is an ohms setting. with the X off, take off both ends of the battery cable and if there is resistance then there is a bad cable there. Repeat for both + cables. Also repeat this for the negative cable that I mentioned earlier that goes from battery - to block.

Another wise idea would be to get a new ground wire. Go to your battery section of the local car store and get the correct length ground wire and get the LARGEST GUAGE POSSIBLE! The guages actually read that the smaller number is a larger wire diameter. therefore, a 2 AWG(American wire guage) is larger than a 4 AWG wire. Get the 2 AWG if you can.

There are 3 plugs by the air box. Pull these off individually and throw QD electronic cleaner on there.

Take a wire brush to every place on the cables that are exposed and every place that they secure to.

-James

Wow!!! Thanks for the quick and thorough replies. I'm going to print these out and show them to the mechanic.

I was talking to my trainer today and he suggested it was the fuel injection relay. Since I'm in Alabama and the we're being hit with some warm days, he suggested that electronic parts such as the f.i.r. are sensitive to temps. Right now it canks right up. I suppose it self-resolved overnight which makes me feel worse.

I'm going to go through what you all have listed here to be proactive. Then, should it stop again, I'll find more suggestions or a steep cliff. :)

Thanks again.

Where are you located in Alabama? I'm in Decatur.

Sounds like a starter relay or a clutch switch. How far down do you have to put the clutch pedal to start it? Do you have to bury the pedal?

When you can't jump it, will it bump start? Do you have power at the starter when the key is turned over? Could be an ignition switch issue as well. Rare, but a possibility.

Sounds like a starter relay or a clutch switch. How far down do you have to put the clutch pedal to start it? Do you have to bury the pedal?

When you can't jump it, will it bump start? Do you have power at the starter when the key is turned over? Could be an ignition switch issue as well. Rare, but a possibility.

My thinking too especially since you don't mention any clicking.