So lets see... My Xterra has been running great till yesterday..

I noticed I was low on fuel right about on E so I stopped at the local Krogers..
Added 1/2 of a tank.. then drove home 3 miles away.. Parked it all was fine..
Then I went to move it and got about half way turned around in my yard when it started missing and just died.. It started right back up but continued to miss and shut its self off..

Now I can only get it to turn over.. Every once in a while it sounds like its hitting but nothing..

My first thought is maybe I ran some bad fuel in the Xterra.. But.. I called Nissan to see if any of the recalls have been down..

Seen this year it had a fuel sending unit put in.. March 2011


Seems like when Ive had fuel pumps stop in the past they just would never start up.. But this ran fine for about 30 sec..

Any ideas??

Bump

i have no clue. just wait for soccerbrace or TJ to chime in

Can you smell gas in the exhaust when its cranking?

Look at the distributor, you are about due with age.

it did smell flooded.. like a carb would

Sounds a bit like what TJ had last time I was with him at RC. His fuel pump died on the trail and it wouldn't turn over.. I think its a safe bet right behind a dizzy.

It seems like whenever I had a customer who came in a with a bad fuel pump it happened right after filling up from almost empty. (Not always, just seemed like it)
I wonder if the pump overheats a tad from not being fully submersed and when the cool fuel hits it causes the pump to fail. Probably coincidence but it was always a theory. I try to never let my tank get below 1/4.

Paul

TJ had a bad fuel pump relay! Located right under the dash driver side. Could be the fuel filter too. Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key? Sounds like a high pitch wine or air leak for about 3 seconds. If you can hear that then the fuel pump is working and its clogged.

easy way to see is to disconnect the fuel line, light a match and the turn on the ignition. If the truck doesn't blow up then you have a fuel problem, if it does blow up then you know that was not it.

http://shirtoid.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/dont-try-this-at-home.jpg

you can pull a plug and see if you get spark when starting... especially if you hear the fuel pump when you first turn the key (don't try to start, just turn to ON - you probably know this but just saying :))

x2 on the fuel filter, coulda mixed up some of the junk at the bottom of the tank and clogged the filter. About the cheapest route either way.

so I'm sitting in it and pulling codes...
typical p0325 KS malfunction bank 1
p1447 manufacture aux emission controls
(had a broken line just fixed it)
and again the
p0325 KS 1 circuit malfunction bank 1 or 1 sensor

don't think it will pull a code for the fuel pump but you should be able to hear it turn on

I think I hear it... not sure though.. when Tom gets here ill get under it and listen better.

have you tried spraying something through the intake... if you spray a little maf cleaner into the intake it should try and start.. that would kinda limit your issues to fuel

My FSU went out shortly after I did my body lift... I don't know if doing the lift would cause any stress to the FSU.. maybe that's what happened... something to look at.. easy to replace too

if your fuel pump is out you will hear nothing at all. If its working you will hear a hissing sound when you turn the key on.

Update: Fuel pump is working.. I can hear it and when you crank it over.. you can smell the gas..

Replaced the Button and cap.. Still nothing.. Im not seeing arc so Im thinking its the distributor..

Since Im in a area I know zero about.. What should I look for? I figure since its down Ill change plugs and wires.. Ive read a couple things about bearings going out?

The Recall was done on this Xterra March of this years for the Fuel relay..


Thanks guys

Update: Fuel pump is working.. I can hear it and when you crank it over.. you can smell the gas..

Replaced the Button and cap.. Still nothing.. Im not seeing arc so Im thinking its the distributor..

Since Im in a area I know zero about.. What should I look for? I figure since its down Ill change plugs and wires.. Ive read a couple things about bearings going out?

The Recall was done on this Xterra March of this years for the Fuel relay..


Thanks guys

The spark plug had to be grounded for it to spark. Put it down on its side on something metal and see if you get spark.

take the cap off the dist and crank the motor. Get someone to look at the rotor and make sure its turning. if not then you have a bad Dist.

the distributor is turning, I put a screw driver between the dist and the plug wire and there was no arc.

is there a ignitor chip or something under the rotor?

Yes like Tom said we seen the button turning..

I'm sorry that we couldn't get it started.

Just a thought, get some scrubbing bubbles, or wal-mart knock off, and clean the engine bay, then pull the front passenger spark plug stick it back in the spark plug wire. Holding by the boot, place the business end of the plug on the block and have Kelly turn the key and see if you see spark.

Tom why did you keep asking me about my dip stick :D

The spark plug had to be grounded for it to spark. Put it down on its side on something metal and see if you get spark.

take the cap off the dist and crank the motor. Get someone to look at the rotor and make sure its turning. if not then you have a bad Dist.

That's what I was saying about spraying something flammable like maf cleaner.. maf cleaner is basically pure alcohol.. by spraying it in the intake the engine should try and start to turn over...

engines need oxygen, fuel, and spark to turn over... by spraying fuel (maf cleaner) directly into your intake you now know your getting spark and obviously air... therefore it something in the fuel or fuel delivery

anything flammable works.. but maf cleaner is the best.. open that bitch up and spray it in.. if it starts to turn over you've eliminated 2 of the 3 things

^^^^^

I could hear the fuel pump kick on when Dave turned the key, and you can smell fuel in the engine bay too. Dave even shot ether in there this morning.

Tom why did you keep asking me about my dip stick :D

I have to explain everything mechanical to you huh? :D

Ive tried ether

Alright...

it was worth a shot..

either way its good info for any noob that reads this thread..

do you know when the last time the plugs were replaced?

Ive tried ether


Wait, you did spray it in the engine right?


Not on a rag so you could huff it....

?????

Come on, anybody? anything?

Is there a way we can test the Distributor?

See if theres +12 volts going into the distributor (no clue which pin would be the feed).

Just asked my father-in-law and he said advance can test the ignition module and the coil and all that, but obviously youd have to rip the guts out of the distributor for them to check all that.

I forget if you said youre getting a spark (and if so is it white or yellowish?)

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checked all the fuses today.. all still good..

tomorrow I'll start down the distributor path

I'm trying to get free for Saturday, so if you don't have it running I can come down. Has Kelly chimed in yet???

no Kelly hasn't popped in yet

slacker, he acts like he is busy or something.

I know right?

Ok so Ive got it down to two things.. Distributor or Crank Sensor..
I talked to the parts guy at my local Nissan dealerlship and he said they keep 2 distributors on hand at all times.. but they do not keep in crank sensors..

So Im thinking its the distributor.. So now Im searching for the best price..

slacker, he acts like he is busy or something.

Or something......:mocking: I texted Dave this morning and I would go with the distributor at this point with the information available.

I keep one at home fore the same reason. It goes everywhere as a trail spare. The position sensors almost never go bad but the distributers have a limited life span.

so no one thinks crank sensor?

Didnt cyclemut once say if the crank sensor goes the ecu defaults to the cam sensor or something so it at least stays running (well in not so many words)?

Im still banking on my first guess when you first posted that the distributor took a dump

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http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/263978_10150211069786596_610981595_7782120_2775707 _n.jpg

what did that cost ya?

More than it should have.... I seen them for 120 on eBay.. I bought this one at Autozone..

same one i went with... i think mine was $230 at advance. i went with that vs online since they'd have it the next day

They had in stock.. I couldnt believe it

did you put it on yet?

not yet

Not yet? pffff... Its a 5 minute job :) (okay maybe 10... The clip that mounts the plug on the metal brace is a bit of a bitch.. I think I remember that needing to be unmounted.. Or maybe I fought with it for a few minutes to find out it didnt need to be unmounted, I forget)

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you need to find tdc to put it in?

Just mark where the rotor is currently at on something outside the distributor (i marked both sides of the metal area on the rotor and one dead center back side of the rotor). Line new rotor up but just shy counter clockwise (iirc) and drop it in. the gear at the bottom will turn the rotor a bit when you put it in hence the have it slight off of where the old one was. Verify rotor is aligned with your marks.

I lined the bolt that secures it as close to where the original was marked, but im sure there may be a better technique than that

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easy...

get that Dave?

Sometimes the old one can bit a little bit of a pain to get out, just work the rotor back and forth a little bit while pulling the housing up. Mine didnt want to budge until I did that and then it poped out

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Lol I work part time at oreilly auto and pulled out one and looked at it today...ignition control, coil, condenser, all in the distributor, no replacement parts: coil/condenser/ig. control module. Also not to put a wrench in anything but there is a cam position sensor that communicates with the pcm...Both the sensor and distributor can produce the same results. Although on the lighter side, oreilly's carries the distributor in stock(usually only in stock if it is a common issue) and the sensor is a couple days out.

YEah I went to Nissan today.. They keep 2 distributors in stock at all times.. He said they do not stock a crank sensor.. so do the math

Just mark where the rotor is currently at on something outside the distributor (i marked both sides of the metal area on the rotor and one dead center back side of the rotor). Line new rotor up but just shy counter clockwise (iirc) and drop it in. the gear at the bottom will turn the rotor a bit when you put it in hence the have it slight off of where the old one was. Verify rotor is aligned with your marks.

I lined the bolt that secures it as close to where the original was marked, but im sure there may be a better technique than that

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That is the best way to do it.

Before you do all of this take off the access hatch to view the top of the tank. Unplug the wires going into the tank. The big one is the gas gauge the little one is the fuel pump. take a mirror and look under the plugs on the tank top (fsu) and look for corrosion. This is a widespread problem known as the fuel sending unit. IT corrodes untill driving is intermitent and then not at all. If you can hear the fuel ppump everytime you turn it on then your okay. But make sure it is Everytime. I know this because im currently in the process of replacing mine. My symtoms were driving great all of the sudden it quits and only want to run at 300-400 rpm. Then starts up fine and i drive away then quits again and doesnt want to start at all. I replaces the fuel pump and nothing. I took the old pump and used it straight to the battery and it pumps. http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/wolfer95/2011-06-21131040.jpg This isnt a very good picture but the green is corrosion.

Update?

I think the Xterra was starving and ate him...

running great... timing was dead on when I put the new distributor back in
Followed the service manual and.. bang.. done

started right up...

running great... timing was dead on when I put the new distributor back in
Followed the service manual and.. bang.. done

started right up...

running great... timing was dead on when I put the new distributor back in
Followed the service manual and.. bang.. done

started right up...

running great... timing was dead on when I put the new distributor back in
Followed the service manual and.. bang.. done

started right up...

He's so excited he posted 2 times! lol

Yep I'm that excited

Did you put a screwdriver down the spark plug hole to find TDC? That's the best way. 0_o

GLad to see you got it running. Wish I could be on the same page.