Hi All,

So here's the story, driving my truck all day, went to go pick up my wife, came to a stop in the road, wife jumps in, pressed on the gas peddle to start moving again and then nothing... truck dies in the middle of the road...

Truck Specs: 2003 Xterra SE, 2.5L V6 .. it's black ;)

So here is what I had diagnosed so far,

- Pulled the started had it bench tested - it works.
- Battery terminals, and any other terminals with in visible reach have been checked and cleaned
- Battery is brand new, old one died while the truck was parked while working on a solution
- When I turn the ignition on the dash lights turn on etc...
- All the rest of the electrical in the truck works just fine
- The Fuel Pump is OK, I can hear it pressurize when you try to start the truck
- When the key is turned to start there is no noise, no clicking, no movement
- Checked spark plugs, wires etc...

A couple of my ideas if it helps...
It has a alarm system ( came when I bought it ) .. not sure if I try to remove this or have it removed if this is the problem...
An electrical relay some where?

Anyways I am hoping for some ideas, insight, or miracles!
Thanks for all your help!

Kris

Hi All,

So here's the story, driving my truck all day, went to go pick up my wife, came to a stop in the road, wife jumps in, pressed on the gas peddle to start moving again and then nothing... truck dies in the middle of the road...

Truck Specs: 2003 Xterra SE, 2.5L V6 .. it's black ;)

So here is what I had diagnosed so far,

- Pulled the started had it bench tested - it works.
- Battery terminals, and any other terminals with in visible reach have been checked and cleaned
- Battery is brand new, old one died while the truck was parked while working on a solution
- When I turn the ignition on the dash lights turn on etc...
- All the rest of the electrical in the truck works just fine
- The Fuel Pump is OK, I can hear it pressurize when you try to start the truck
- When the key is turned to start there is no noise, no clicking, no movement
- Checked spark plugs, wires etc...

A couple of my ideas if it helps...
It has a alarm system ( came when I bought it ) .. not sure if I try to remove this or have it removed if this is the problem...
An electrical relay some where?

Anyways I am hoping for some ideas, insight, or miracles!
Thanks for all your help!

Kris

First of all, like the rest of the people here suggest, is to pull the code on the X, then go from there.
from my experience the code does not tell all. I would suggest to pull out your distributor and check inside if you have shaving of metal and other debree. on my X the bearing on the dizzy shaft was worn out, easy and cheap replacement for only 3-7 bux. life saver indeed.

other than that, check fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plug, plug wires, cap and rotor.
MAF sensor usually shows after pulling a code but then again it might not always be the case.

there are write ups here that can help you change the parts on your X. Im sure some other members might also suggest other things to check.
just hang in there and you'll get answers.

When the key is turned to start there is no noise, no clicking, no movement

** have your alternator checked too, since you said the starter is ok. just a thought.

First off:

You said 2.5l V6. is your X a Diesel? All Xterra's from 2000-2004 are either 3.3V6 or 2.4 4 cylinder.

Second:

You said if you try to start you get no noise no click no nothing? My guess its an ignition issue or that alarm you were talking about took a dump. Check you battery terminals. make sure they are clean and tight.

I'll guess that the alarm took a poop also. It prolly has an ignition disable dealio that may have gone south. You may get lucky and have a setup that only disables the ignition when the alarm activates. You can unplug the module and the beast will start. I'm not usually that lucky with stuff. Look under the dash for broken wires and scotch locks that idiots use to tap into wiring.

Paul

I'll guess that the alarm took a poop also. It prolly has an ignition disable dealio that may have gone south.

All alarms I know of only kill the starter, not the ignition (for safety reasons obviously.. should the alarm cause the ignition to shut off in the middle of an intersection, someone is getting their ass handed to them in a lawsuit)

It could explain the reason it's not cranking. It could be the neutral safety switch as well.

But the fact it died while running and now won't crank makes me think it's two problems (or a fuse that powers the alarm and some other circuit that keeps the car running).

check all your fuse, inside and under the hood. last time my x died was due to a bad fuse, replaced 3, 2 under the dash and 1 on the engine bay.

All alarms I know of only kill the starter, not the ignition

It all depends on how someone wired it up. I did car stereo/alarms for a long time and you wouldn't believe the stuff I saw. Theres nothing like the smell of a car that some ninny ran a four gauge wire from the battery though a door jam without a fuse. Slam the door and the wire becomes boiling copper that burns its way though anything it touches.
Some if the old systems only cut ignition. you could crank it all day and it wouldn't start. You wire a relay so that the ignition power flows when the relay is not powered up. When the alarm triggers that relay it kills power to the ignition system. If it's done right it's pretty much foolproof. The only way to have it kill power is if the wires fall off or the relay explodes for some unknown reason. Most starter circuits in older cars pull too much current to use a normal relay safely.

Paul

Oh, trust me, I know.. been in the remote start/alarm install world for over 14+ years now? I understand it depends on how whoever wired it up could have done it.. and I've seen some really sloppy, what the heck were they thinking/doing type installs in my years :) I guess the correct phrase I should have said is a properly done, as it's why they're called starter kills. Still stand behind the doing the ignition is an extremely bad idea.

Hey Guys thanks for the ideas!

Yes is is a 3.3L .. just sold my car which was 2.5L getting the engines mixed.. my bad.. but a Diesel xterra would not be too shabby, do they make a diesel motor?

After some digging, tinkering and the like, this is where I am at. But unfortunately no miracles...

Security system (even tho it goes off when the truck was driving at random ) is not the issue, it will still be removed...
Starter was dead, I replaced that, got the engine to try to start...and still not starting.
Now here is the scary part, pulled the distributer cap............... cry........... the rotor is not spinning when the engine is turned over....

ok, so the timing belt is busted.. on the the internet I go to find more information about the timing belts on xterra's .. oh guess what they are interference engines... awesome... yes I know I should have checked... but we are here now.

so I guess my next set of questions would be....
Any chance I did not stuff my valves..?? ( I am already banking on nope... _)
What engines would fit in my truck .. for example if I came across a 3.5L or 4L would it transplant and play nicely with the rest of the truck?
Anyone have a good lead on long blocks? I am in Kamloops, British Columbia, Canada but could have it shipped if necessary.... I am going towards a long block vs a rebuild on the heads because the engine is already at 250,000+ kms If I am going in 50% might as well go the whole way and have a new engine.
Any one who has been down this road and could share some details and ideas for me would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks again...

There is a 50/50 chance that your engine is OK. I'd take it to be looked at by a professional.


As for what will fit, just about anything. However, it would be easiest to put a stock 3.3L v6 back in. They aren't hard to find and should be fairly cheap.

50% is better then what I have heard so far, I have held out for some hope but everyone basically said don't hold your breath.

I am going to do a cylinder compression test, if that holds then I will check the rest of the cylinders and then see what needs to happen there... The only saving grace I may have is that I was at a stop and idle when it snapped....

Now, when I had previously put the starter back in ... before I knew it was an interference engine... I had tried to start the engine... so I am still thinking my 50% is more like 10% now...

If it was idling when it quit, I am pretty sure it will be sound! Put in a new belt, tensioner and waterpump!
Run it for another 105K!

Ok, so here is an update...

Compression test (please let me know if I have just done this all backwards)
Got the timing belt back on with the timing marks set and the #1 cylinder TDC
pulled all but the the far back spark plug.. lets be honest who the hell decided it was a good idea to stuff that sucker all the way back there.. that is crap.
screwed the compression gauge in to the #1 cylinder spark plug hole
said a prayer for correct timings, correct TDC, and no additional damage
turned the engine over 3 cranks read the reading
rinse and repeat for the remaining "available" cylinders....

Wow... they appear to be containing compression.. no bent valves???

Readings were as follows:

#1 - 125psi ( this seems high but I am not sure what they should be showing at )
#2,#3,#4,#5 - ~75psi
#6 - figured is probably ok .. 5 out of 6 ain't bad...

( I am going to have a second go at the readings during the daylight to reaffirm my findings... )

So I guess what my next questions are ..

Does this appear to be mostly correct?
Anything obviously incorrect?
Does this mean my valves are ok?

Thanks!

75 is pretty low. Are you using a screw in type or a press in and hold type of compression tester?

The general rule for compression test is to have all of the psi within 10% of each other. If you're using the press in and hold type its easy to not have enough pressure down on it or a bad seal and end up with lower numbers like you're showing. If you weren't basically over it pushing down really firm, I'd try doing them if you really want to check them or do a leakdown test

Sent from my GT-I9000 using AutoGuide App

I have found that people that do not do compression tests regularly, do not get consistant results.
If you placed the timing belt on correctly (make sure of this)
and If you changed the parts, start it up and see if it runs smoothly. Check the timing, if you removed the distributor.

The compression gauge is a screw in type, I didn't even know there would be a hold in type.. sounds flawed to me in terms of an accurate testing tool. However admittedly I am not some one who does a compression test everyday, or more accurately more then once a year...

I checked in to the compression and it is really low... from what I understand should be around 160 to 180 psi

Timing belt was installed as follows, lined up the points on the cams to the points on the block and TDC #1 cylinder. Tightened tensioner. Removed all but the back spark plug.

Found out some more information from a rebuilt mechanic, pretty much guarantee something is bent.. of course he has a vested interest in the fact that it could be bent, but I am pretty sure he was aware that I was not about to drop $5000+ into a rebuild on this engine... He had suggested a rebuild on the heads however for under $1000

After some looking we had found a used engine for $1700 with 100,000 kms on it.. ( mine is currently 250,000+ and not counting.. ;)

This is a pretty good route to go in my opinion..
So now the next steps any advise / direction on a engine swap?

Thanks!

Start it run it, what do you have to lose?
Are you not telling the whole story? Was there a loud bang or something ugly?