Has anyone bought and installed the locking hubs for 1st gen x.

I was thinking about getting some .

Im on my second set... if the factory ones are fine I wouldn't replace them

if you blow an auto hub then you have more of a reason to swap to manuals....if not, the auto hubs are pretty stout and take a lot of shit

if you decide to switch to manual, you have a few options:

nissan hardbody truck OEM hubs - the strongest hubs for our trucks, but are hard to find (and expensive through the dealer)

warn hubs - pretty strong, but you need to install them with different hardware because many people have broken the bolts that warn provides

mile marker / mile marker SS - many people complain that they've broken their MM hubs on easy terrain....i've wheeled on my mile marker SS hubs 5 times now without a problem

superwinch hubs - nylon centers, very weak

rugged ridge - i believe they are the same hub as the superwinch hub

x2 on that, I am running a set of mile markers, and the only reason that I switched was that both factory hubs were blown behind the c-clip. everything else about them is fine.

Ive seen the mile markers blow up.. Im sure they are ok but that has been my exp
with them. Like said above... I wouldnt change them out till you kill them.. The factory hubs are very strong. I would just head to your local junk yard and find a back up set...
Good luck

Ive seen the mile markers blow up.. Im sure they are ok but that has been my exp
with them. Like said above... I wouldnt change them out till you kill them.. The factory hubs are very strong. I would just head to your local junk yard and find a back up set...
Good luck

I think that if you are around long enough you will see everything blow up at one time or another. It is just one of thoes things, the longer you wheel, the harder you go, the harder your friends go, stuff brakes, you fix it. At least hubs are a very easy thing to fix.

I've been running the Superwinch hubs on my SAS'd Xterra for over two years with zero problems and my X see's the trail a lot.

I think that if you are around long enough you will see everything blow up at one time or another. It is just one of thoes things, the longer you wheel, the harder you go, the harder your friends go, stuff brakes, you fix it. At least hubs are a very easy thing to fix.

This is true but my mm hubs lasted 3 1/2 wheeling trips

Like said above... The MM didnt last very long.. and Ive wheeled for many years..
I think my post says enough...

I wouldnt tell some one not to buy them.. but that was my exp with them.

IF any thing I would search out for the Hardbody hubs...

know the part number or application? im searching nissan and come up with a few different ones....

im running warn manual locking hubs i love them <3!!!

IMHO the advantage of manuals is that;

they can be engaged/disengaged without moving the truck
they do not unlock for a sec when changing direction (forward/reverse) as do the autos, a disadvantage when you are stuck in a rock garden.
they look really cool (hey, I know that’s poser bs but they do)

The disadvantage of manuals is that it is a PITA to engage/disengage them if the weather is bad because you need to get out of your truck. That doesn’t sound like a big deal until you’ve get rain running down your back and then have to drive for a few hours in wet clothes.

Sooo IMHO unless you like the rocks (like me) stick with OEM autos.

If you really want them I’d get the ones made by AVM from an old hardbody, I’ve got ones from a ’96 Nissan part number 40250S3900 (pic. (http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/BklynX_photo/Mods/DSC_0003.jpg)).
They run around $100 new if you can find them “in stock”. A buddy of mine grabbed a back up set for me off an old HB at “Harry’s You Pull” in PA for way less so they’re out there if you look and are lucky.
Both your OEM autos and HB manuals are stronger than the WARN or MM manuals IMHO.

Tom,

RE: Factory Auto-Locker Hubs:

They ONLY unlock the hub in reverse IF you shifted OUT of 4wd first.

That's WHY you need to go a minimum DISTANCE in reverse AFTER shifting into 2wd, TO UNLOCK them.

:D

IE: When you drive in reverse in 4wd, you are driving in reverse in 4wd.

You CAN rock yourself back and forth, in 4wd.

:wink-big:

Ive got milemarker hubs they work descent but ive blown 3 to pieces from being airborn and landing. I should really quit but its to much fun.

Tom,

RE: Factory Auto-Locker Hubs:

They ONLY unlock the hub in reverse IF you shifted OUT of 4wd first.

That's WHY you need to go a minimum DISTANCE in reverse AFTER shifting into 2wd, TO UNLOCK them.

:D

IE: When you drive in reverse in 4wd, you are driving in reverse in 4wd.

You CAN rock yourself back and forth, in 4wd.

:wink-big:
Well F.
I apologize for my ignorance, posting misinformation and for now hijacking this thread into what may now become a two page tutorial by TJ for the benefit of my dumb ass.
My understanding of our auto hub has been that the combination of the hub “unloading” (shifting into 2WD) and a change in direction unlocked it. Being in 4WD does not send any kind of signal to the hub other than engaging the front diff; turning the front axles. When a front axle turns it “loads” the hub causing it to engage. It would stay engaged as long as you continue in the same direction. When you change direction the hub would briefly disengage until, when still 4WD, the turning front axle again “loaded” the hub. As the hub became loaded it would engage but the brief unlock would be a disadvantage when rocking back a forth.
Manual hubs do not need a load/unload or change of direction to engage/disengage, you do it manually by turning the selector and therefore when locked stay locked.
Have I explained my understanding of this correctly, is it wrong?

TJ? Anyone?

What is doing a broken stock hub? I raise my X in the air yesterday while doing my brake and after I started it, engaged the 4x4 and just let the for wheels turn (not touching the ground) and I noticed that only one wheels was turning in the front, seems like the other hub was to hard to turn. While giving more gas pedal, it started to turn, but on idle, only one of the front wheels was turning. Is it a broken hub or is it normal?

Was the wheel that was spinning doing so at twice the speed of the rear wheels? Could you stop the one side that did spin and would the other side spin?

It could also just indicate that the hub did not fully ingage, and just needs to be cleaned and re-greased. But it could be showing that the hub is bad, you will not know untill you pull it apart and take a look at it.

If you blow a hub is it not worth fixing the brocken pieces over replacing the whole thing?

I have been thinking about the warn manual hubs but after reading this I think ill wait till I blow my factory set. I am heading to the junk yards next weekend. Will any year hardbody hubs work?

I have been thinking about the warn manual hubs but after reading this I think ill wait till I blow my factory set. I am heading to the junk yards next weekend. Will any year hardbody hubs work?

Mine is from a '96 Hardbody. I think Bklyn.X's is the same year.