Hey guys I picked up a hornet remote starter today which I thought would be pretty straight forward install because I do a lot of electrical installs... well I was wrong I was just not confident enough (not doing it before) to do it...

I had the dash all apart and started locating wires but just didn't know enough to start splicing/ cutting etc.

Now I know a shop will install it but it'd be pricey so anyone somewhat close to the Albany area be willing to help me out with the install? I can supply lunch or whatever for the help just don't want to dish out $150 + right now for the install ...

Cliffs:

NEED HELP WITH REMOTE START INSTALL in Albany NY area, will travel for help!!!

thanks!

will help you with anything else needed to be done to your X!

anyone? :)!

bump!

:-)

You also need a immobilizer bypass for the chip in your key. You can either do electronic bypass or key in a box.

Shouldn't need one for an '04, the factory transponders didn't start till '05.

are you sure creep...i almost got one and they guy said i needed a key in a box....with my 02.

I've done tons of them in 1st gens, and have never seen one with it personally. I've heard stories of some dealers adding aftermarket one to them, but have never come across one myself. None of the color codes show them till '05 either.

Many places tell you that you need one, (just a scam to mark up their product an extra $100), and because so many people think they need them now a days, most people don't even question it. It happens all the time. It's a sick world out there, lol.

It's easy to check now a days, just go to pretty much any place that makes keys, and they have a little thing there that checks your key for a transponder.

Off topic a bit. The dealer told me that my 03 is a chipped key. (not that I believe them) I'm planning on getting a key made and trying it so I don't have to shell out the 100-124 bucks for a friggin key.

05+ have chipped keys. Earlier models don't (or shouldn't). Easy way to find out if your local key cutting place doesn't have one of the little devices that checks to see if it has a chip is get a metal blank cut. If that starts your car, no chip. If it doesn't, you have a chip. Costs, what, $2-$3?

As for helping you install the remote start, here's the wiring info:

EDIT>>> Use this link instead http://www.filedropper.com/2004xterra
It doesn't have all the pop-up crap. I'll leave the other link here as the filedropper says something about a 7 day free trial, so the link may not work after 7 days.
END EDIT>>>


http://www.mediafire.com/?7y27mi3znms7q0o
(that was the first place I found with a quick google search that allows free file sharing.. stupid pop up ads you'll have to close. It's a .MDI (Microsoft Document Image or something of the sort.. only way I could "copy and paste" since you can't do that directly from DirectWire's app, so I had to "print it" to a document)

My key is not chipped... I covered the area where the key would have the chip with tin foil and the car started... also had copies made and they start it without the key..
I'm just nervous about cutting wires... it's my ignition and I keep reading

IF YOU'VE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE DONT!!! lol just would like some guidance before dropping $100 + for an itstall.. I have the starter already

I mean if I had like pictures and a walk through of where wires were... no problem, but just saying it's a green wire with white striped worries me

Just take your time, use a Digital Multi-Meter to test each wire before you hook the wire from the remote start to it. It's not hard.

For example:
*Power Lock **lt. green/red **- **SECU to right of column, pin 5

Find the SECU to the right of the steering column, and pin location 5 there should be a light green wire with a red stripe. if your DMM's positive lead is small enough, you can stick it into pin 5 (otherwise you'll have to strip some of the wire and connect your lead there). Take your negative lead and connect it to ground somewhere (something metal). You should see 12v on the wire. When you press the power lock button, or turn the key in the drivers door to lock it, you should see the meter go to ground. Let go of the button (or turn the key back to center in the door cylinder) and the meter should now read what it read when you first hooked the meter to it. If so, that's your lock wire.

You just proceed like that. The POL column in the document lists what polarity the wire reads when it's active. If you look at Ignition, it say POL +. That wire doesn't read anything until the key is in the IGNITION and START positions, at which time it will read +12v.

Most of your connections you'll use for the remote start will be at the SECU. Hood, pin, lock, unlock, factory alarm ARM, factory alarm DISARM.

Here's a quick list of what wires you're going to want to use:

12 VOLTS always has +12 volts

STARTER will show +12 when key is in START position

SECOND STARTER will show +12 when key is in START position

IGNITION will show +12 when key is in RUN and START position

ACCESSORY will show +12 when key is in ACC and RUN positions, but not START position

2nd ACCESSORY will show +12 when key is in ACC and RUN positions, but not START position

Power Lock Will go from +12 to ground when you turn the key in the door or rear hatch

Power Unlock Will go from +12 to ground when you turn the key in the door or rear hatch

Parking lights + Will rest at ground, but will go to +12v when you turn the parking lights on

Hood Pin (this way you can use the factory hood pin instead of having to use the one provided with the remote start.. they tend to rust out if you live in a snowy/crappy area) Will rest at +12 or open, and will read ground when the hood is popped. Best way to test this one is put your Negative probe on the wire, and the positive probe on a +12 source. Wire should read nothing, but when you pop the hood should read around +12v

Factory Alarm Arm (optional, but if you use this it will activate the factory alarm when you press lock on the remote). Test like you test the LOCK function

Factory Alarm Disarm (you'll want to use this one.. if someone locks the car via the lock switch or key, it will enable the factory alarm. If it's enabled and you only hook up the unlock from the remote start, it will unlock the door but set the alarm off as soon as you open the door, and will most likely trigger the alarm when the car remote starts)
Test like you test the Unlock function

TACH (I'd tag it behind the cluster as it's not that hard to get out. To test TACH, if your meter has a RPM or Hz function, switch it to that and put the positive probe on the car's tach wire, and the negative probe on a good ground. Start the car, and slowly give it more gas. You should see the RPM or Hz read out increase as the engine revs up. Let off the gas and the reading should drop and settle. If your meter doesn't have RPM or Hz, you can use the AC voltage setting, though sometimes a tach wire doesn't show its self as well that way.)

Brake Wire (test this but putting Pos probe on the listed wire.. should read 0 volts normally, and +12 when you depress the brake pedal)

That should be the only wires you need to complete the install.

^^ wow thank you so much, I wish you were closer to me I'd pay you to do mine, sounds like you really know your stuff!!! I'll take a look today and mess around with some things... Just have to work up the courage to do it!!! I'm good with everything on my X BUT this I've never done one before, good with electrical wiring etc. but I guess everyone has to start somewhere..

I also know some people say you must connect 1st starter to 2nd starter or something along those lines? what do I have to do for this as well? I want to make sure before I start I have all the instructions so I can go slowly and take my time ha.

My only suggestion to you is bench prep. Read what the wires on the remote start do, and cut back and cap/tape any you won't need... BUT leave enough wire left you can extend it if you find out you f'ed up. Group the wires that are going to run to the same area so you can make a nice little "harness" to each area. Then what I do is install the antenna (middle or close to middle of top of windshield) and run the antenna wire to where I want to mount the brain. Plug in the antenna, and then mount the brain in an area where there's no wires you're going to need and it's up out of the way. With the brain now mounted (zip tied to some think wire harnesses, around a brace, etc) you can route your wires to where they need to go, trimming them to length as you go. This way you end up with a nice clean install, instead of a ball of extra length of wire you need to hide.

And yes, I've been installing these things for over 11 years now. The worst I'd have to say was the Saab with the key in the center console, you have next to no room to get to those ignition lines and install the ring for the universal key in the box bypass lol

All I have is a very basic remote starter, so I don't believe I even need the lock/ unlock it's just 1 button starter.

Lol, I hate Saabs too.

Yes, you'll need to hook up both starter wires, and they must remain isolated from each other (the second is for the cold start injector)

Since it's just a starter unit, (if you don't install an anti crank), you shouldn't have to cut any wires on your X at all. Everything will just tap in to the factory wires, no actual cutting.

The biggest thing is, make sure you hook up a hood pin! This way if you are working on your rig and you lean on your keys, it wont accidentally start up and chop your fingers off, lol.

I wish someone lived closer to me to help damn you guys no your stuff!!! in NY I'll travel an hour + lol

to hook up the 2 starter wires then... how exactly??

And tap meaning- just T-Tap into everything??

You can T-tap everything except the high current wires (the 10ga ones), those you want to T them in by soldering them. (T-taps will melt over time on high current wires)

What make and model is your remote starter again?

You can T-tap everything except the high current wires (the 10ga ones), those you want to T them in by soldering them. (T-taps will melt over time on high current wires)

What make and model is your remote starter again?

I don't know model... but it's a python simple 1 button push... Never soldered before... may be worth just getting it installed grrrrr
I just like doing thngs on my own because a. cheaper b. if it stops working I know how to fix/ where to trouble shoot :(

Well the keyless part you don't have to worry about then, but everything else applies.. except maybe the OEM alarm arm/disarm outputs if the rem start has them. Since you're going to have to use the key or remote to get into the car, you're going to be disarming it when you enter anyhow. THOUGH I'm pretty sure the OEM alarm will sound when the rem start kicks the ignition on. Some cars do, some don't.. pretty sure the Xterra does, so you'll still want to hook up the OEM ALARM DISARM if it does trip the alarm. (Easy way to test... get in the car, and lock the door via remote or key cylinder. Let X sit for about a minute, and then stick the key in the ignition cylinder and turn it on.. see if the alarm goes off or not)

^^ yup done that and no alarm on, checked that earlier

Then you should be good to go, just minus the OEM alarm, disarm, lock, and unlock wires from my list.. and Creepy mentioned about the dual starter wires on page 2

thanks for the help... we'll see what tomorrow brings and FYI its a hornet IDK where i got python from... it's been sitting in my draw for THAT long lol

Hornet, Valet, Python, Viper.. they're all DEI (Directed Electronics) brands

Find the model number on it, so we can look up the wire colors and inputs/outputs.

http://www.hornetcarsecurity.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=810

Hornet 569T

thanks guys

Jeez Creepy, have to create a table now... Why do I have to be so eager to reply to these type threads! lol

Edit> I've noticed it's getting harder and harder to find DEI Install Manuals online anymore.. haven't found this one yet either, though the wiring colors are the same across the models, which wires they offer differ

thanks again guys... I took out the starter today and can't find the booklet that tells me what the wires are for the system (problem) if you know where I can get it... I've been googling it but no luck thus far

what a bummer! I hope I can find this panphlet otherwise IDK what any of the hornet wires mean :(

I can't find it either... theres a backdoor way to get the guides on directed's website but the hornet doesn't come up

I know... I hope its in my draw at home... if not I'm S.O.L damnit!

Ok well on the back of the brain it says:

Pink/ White (IGN 2)--> Says N/A?? NVM found it, it's Red/ Yellow wire on X
Red +12 V --> Green wire on X
Pink (IGN) --> Black/ White on X

Orange (ACC) --> Red/ Yellow on X
Red +12V --> is this a different 12v than above?
Violet (Starter) --> Black/ Yellow on X

and via 12volt website
I'm waiting to see if I can find the wiring diagrams at home so I know what the other harness is...

Blue
Grey - there is a grey wire for the on/ off switch (kill)
Black- there is a black wire for the on/ off switch (kill) if those just go to eachother? not sure..
Violet/ White Stripe
Brown
White/ Blue Stripe
Green/ Black Stripe
White

then there's one more that just has blue and a green wire on it but plugs into a different side so... I'm hoping I have that install guide at home

now the 2 ignitions I need to hook up any idea on the 2nd ignition wiring? also the 12V source... besides that green wire...?

OK, yeah their info is wrong. The black SHOULD be your ground wire.. the Gray (thought I remembered them being gray/black but either way) is for the safety switch. You just hook the switch to the gray wire, and the other end to ground (or connect it in line with the ground wire off of the brain). Some people don't bother with that and just connect the gray wire to the black wire so it's always grounded.. which I'd only do if you made sure the hood pin was connected and working.

At some point today I'll make up a table for you to cross-reference

thanks a lot! I'm messing around with the wiring and slowly writing everything up...

is it the Second Starter or Second Ignition that is needed for the X i dont' remember... Creepy I think said Starter but my Brain calls for a Second Ignition

Sun of a b..... I can't even open my own .MDI file on this win 7 machine for some reason. The other XP machine I made it on opened it, as well as another Win 7 machine at school... if anyone gets a chance to convert it to a word doc and put it on that first sharing site I used on page 2 or 3 that'd be great.. otherwise I'm going to have to type it all out by hand :)

Ok here...

http://www.filedropper.com/2004xterra_1 (.docx version for editing/updating)
http://www.filedropper.com/2004xterra_2 (.pdf version for clean printing)

It's not complete since I can't remember some of the DEI wire colors off the top of my head (or not 100% sure)... It's been a few years since I've used DEI as the company I'm working for uses Prestige piece of crap units. Maybe creepy has a DEI install manual for a Valet handy he could cross reference with, or something of the sort.. but it's a start

Amazing... I can't access that yet becaue I'm at work and they block certain sites, but I will when I get home...

I hope it works I need to get a relay right for the first starter to the second one??

I'd rather install the starter myself

if not I have a buddy that will for $100 and it's my brothers system which is a starter, security alarm and unlock/ lock so either way not a bad deal but I'd rather do it myself first.

last thing I need clarification on is the RELAY... and how that would work between the 2 starters... and which to get
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762

something like that or..?

That relay would work fine.. I don't remember if Creepy posted the wiring diagram or just the info on what to do, but yup, that relay works

ok thanks a lot doing so far so good...

wires I can't find yet: 12 v Green, I see a skinny green one... not sure

oem alarm disarm- yellowred
hood pin black/pink
tach pink/ blue

what does his SECU look like the only thing keeping me stumped right now.

THANKS!!

Keep searching for the manual, because most DEI's have what's called the flex wire (pink/white) and it can be programmed to be 2nd acc/ign/starter, so you wouldn't need a relay or any extra wiring at all. Not all, but most have them, and you just need to know how to program it to the correct mode. If not, I can draw you a map later.


Have you look through this thread yet (I have not yet), but it might help. http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22350&highlight=second+starter

There are quite a few remote start treads on here actually.

I found the manual

Blue- 200 mA ??
Violet/ White- Tach (WHICH IS WHERE???)
Brown- Brake (found)
Gray- hood shut down
Black ground
White/ Blue- Remote Start Activation Input (WHICH IS??)
Lt. Green/ Black (FAD/RAP Cancellation???? this is??)
White- parking light flash output

I have the purple to the black/ yellow
red I can't find the solid 12v green wire so at the battery for now..
orange to I think the right accessory...
Pink to ignition (black/ white)
Red again to batter for now
and pink/white - (output to Ign2/ Acc2 circuit) I cannot find the acc2 wire... white/ blue where is that??

and where is SECU/ Tach wire

thanks again

ok lol well I hooked it up so far and she cranked and then shut off, tried to start again cranked and shut off... got a burning smell from my brain so don't like that... keep going!!!

and yeah creepy I looke @ that but it's for a different year than mine and pics are different looks like..

i guess my question is now... where does that pink/ white wire tap into to start her up

ok well she started... I hooked up the pink/ white wire into the black green (think thats the other ignition)??? and then she'll run and then shortly after just... die and shut off

Have you hooked up the tach wire? If so, did you program the RPM signal yet?

The pink/white wire would only hook to the 2nd starter wire if your manual says it can also be programed as a 2nd starter. If not, don't worry about hooking it up for now. I'm not anywhere that I can make you a map right now.

Burning smell from the brain it not a good sign.

no more burning smell lol idk what it was... I hooked up the pink/ white wire to a black/ green wire the second starter wire I believe, no tach wire hooked up yet don't know how to/ where to do that... i think thats why shes dying on me otherwise I'm in business looks like..

I saw you can hook the tack to a fuel injector wire under the hood? IDK where that is though... to get the rpms to go I'm 99% sure that's why it's dying bc if i start it and rev the engine she stays running

There is no second ign required, and I don't have a black/green on any of my color codes.

2nd starter should be green/yellow, but unless the pink/white can be programmed to be a 2nd starter don't hook it up there.

Slow down and make sure everything is correct before you just start randomly trying stuff, because you can cook the ECU in your X very easy and that costs hundreds of dollars to replace.

ok yeah I didn't see anything on that so I unplugged it.. and just going to wait til I get a full write up... lol it's getting cold out too

I just have to find where this white/ pink wire goes and I should be in business...

look in you manual and see if it can be programmed to be a second starter

Ok, I with what you posted from the manual I can fill in the missing wiring info:

http://www.filedropper.com/2004xterra_3

Hopefully you can follow that... Now let me scroll back up and see where you were stuck

The BLACK/GREEN is listed on Techservices.audiovox.com as another option for the 2nd starter instead of the GREEN/YELLOW Directed lists as the 2nd start. Audiovox also lists WHITE/RED as another color option instead of GREEN for the +12 main feed.

The SECU should be a metal box to the right of the steering column, somewhere above the gas pedal area. That's according to Directed.

The tach can be found either behind the instrument cluster (IE> Pull the cluster out and in the harness that goes into that you'll find a TACH signal), or you can find it at the ECM which should be in the center console area to the right of the gas pedal, hidden by carpet. Another option for a tach signal (which would be a bitch) would be to use the ODD color on one of the fuel injectors. By odd I mean, each (or more than one) injector will have one of the two wires feeding it be the same color... so Injector one say has a GREEN and a RED.. injector two has a BLUE and a RED, etc. You'd use the color that's NOT RED. Hopefully that gets your further.

As for the PINK/WHITE, make sure you don't have that connected to your 2nd starter. Easy way to check, and the PROPER way, is use a DMM, strip the wire you think is whatever you want back, put your meter on it and watch what the voltage does as you turn the key in the ignition cylinder.
+12 - will show 12v in ALL positions.
ACC- will show power in ACC and RUN
2nd ACC - will show power in ACC and RUN (though some just show in RUN, but either way it will be dead when you're actually in the START position)
IGNITION - Power when key is in the RUN and START positions
STARTER - Power ONLY when in START position
STARTER 2 - Same as starter

Sounds like you're making good head way. It would have gone a lot smoother had we known the hornet colors lol. But trust me, your first one always takes the longest

Hornet colors
H1:
blue- 200 mA status output
violet/ white- tach
brown- brake
gray- hood pin
black- ground
white/blue- remote start activation input
lt green/ black- FAD/RAP cancellation
White- parking flash output

H2-
purple- output to starter circuit
red- 12v
orange- output to accessory circuit
pink- output to ignition circuit
red- 12v
pink/ white- output to ign2/ acc2 circuit

Check out the www.xterrafirma.com site. They have a great write up on the Xterra remote start install. Whoever did it did a great job. Look under the articles area. Mods and how tos.

Paul

Here is that map for you (sorry for the delay)

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn2/BrainDead13/secondstart.jpg