Hey guys major help here needed

okay heres the problem strait to the source and i promise not to blabber like other women,

was driving my kids from the pool the other day i noticed that xterra wouldnt click over

(so i opened the hood noticed the cables were kinda loose, so i tried my best to secure them, luckly i found some foil from my sons taco he ate earlier, so i used that to provide a press fit over the termial to get me home) turned out real quick after that


as i was driving on the highway, i noticed it was puttering on and off all the lights on the dash would come and turn off,

so as i gave it gas to try and speed up to get off the highway it did it more sparatically so i aussumed possibly that the cables probably got loose and being that i was using more power and a/c from the vehicle the alternator wasnt able to provide that much current so it caused it to turn off and on,

okay i apoligize im blabberin again,

long story short car died out i had enough momentum to pull over to the side of the rode, stop turned off the xterra let it take a breather, and double checked the terminals and to my suspension they were loose, so i redid the foil thing to secure it, and sure enough it was secured enough to give me good contact, the car would just turn over and over and over but no fire..

So i have it towed to the house, pull the manual out and start check all the relays, all the fuses were good,

pulled off the spark plugs (no spark)
pulled the relay for the fuel pump(then wired it to turn the fuel pump manually and sure enough i heard the fuel pump kick on)

i checked the white and red wire that goes from the pcu to the fuel pump relay( according the manual its supposed to provide power as soon as the ign is turned on, the click over the relay..

So my assumption is is my ecu fried?

This is my daily driver i need to do lots of stuff
my husband is in iraq, ive done all my part of trouble shooting but cnt go any further, i dnt have the fund to have a mechanic tell me something that i can check..

Like ive said i check all the relays etc all the fuseable links everythings all good

my last guess was the ecu or pcu whatever you want to call it

any last checks i should do before i pay for an ecu

o yeah im sorry im a dumb dumb

its a 2001 nissan xterra v6(3.3) 5 speed

any input would be highly thankful for

thanks,

vanessa

So your not getting any spark?

Pop the distributor cap and check to see if the rotor is attached correctly and that the contacts on the cap arnt burnt out.

im not sold on your ECU being fried. Unless you submurged the car in water or really screwed things up i doubt its the issue

P.S. carry a set of wrenches so that you might be able to handle something correctly a cheap set is fine 10 - 20 dollars

i find it real hard to believe its ecm

thanks for the replies, checked under the cap etc.. its good no signs of corrosion, checked the restiance from the two plug wire to the power transitor that checked out good, i dnt really know how to check the coil but on the 2 prong of the connector to the coil has fire,

so im still really bugged i hate to buy a computer, o yeah i disconnected the =bolt for the ecu and unplugged the wire assy from it all the lights are still the same still can crank over the engine etc,, so i know im not getting signal from the computer...

anything i should check?

This might be the alarm system? This is purely speculative but if the car thinks its lost power i think the alarm activates thinking someone cut the power.

Ive had alarm systems on other cars that if you lost power it would switch to armed mode and not let you start the car.

This might be the alarm system? This is purely speculative but if the car thinks its lost power i think the alarm activates thinking someone cut the power.

Ive had alarm systems on other cars that if you lost power it would switch to armed mode and not let you start the car.

I have cut the power to my Xterra by disconnecting the battery cables repeatedly over the last two months and have not had an issue so I would say a simple loss of power would not cause the problem.

Ive scanned this and have you tightened the wires...? If the battery is shorting.. truck wont run.. Might be a dead battery too

i really dont think its your ecu, if it is you would have the check engine light on and wont be able to drive at all after picking up the kids..i think its just your battery, just my 2cents!!

Does the distributor rotor rotate when you crank the engine over?

I had trouble similar to this over a year ago...I tightened the terminals and it worked for a while, then I replaced the terminals completely, AND bought a new battery (my X came with a p.o.s. battery, I needed one that could withstand sub-freezing temps). My X hasn't given me any trouble ever since :)

p.s. I also changed out the sparks and wires, no idea how old they were. Big difference :)

I hope you got it fixed...

One more thing...the correct diagnosis is the best way to avoid unnecessary and costly repairs, but if a diagnosis cannot be determined, the best thing to do is do the least expensive repair first. I'm sure a battery and new terminals cost considerably less than the computer and installation...

Id say get a new distributor cap and rotor. and try that first.

sorry guys and thanks for the response, the battery is the yellow top optium, took it to get it checked it was good, the cables were replaced yesterday, still no go, and yes the cap and rotor are brand new and it does spin when i crank the motor, still no spark.. so i changed out teh spark plugs for grins and smiles still no spark, and i still cnt hear the fuel pump relay kick on when the ignition is on, i still can trigger it i jumpo the wires for it to turn on

any other ways to check the ecu?

what other ecus are compatable with mine?>

what other ecus are compatable with mine?>

Wouldnt you be better off having a mechanic looking at the car rather then just throwing parts at it? on one hand you could just waste money buying parts or you can get a professional to help you fix the problem.

suppose the alternator was the problem and caused a short. do u think that could trigger for the ecu to get fried? or if the alternator was bad would it prevent the car from turning on?

like i said i put the new battery and cables and and cranks right over really fast just no spark or fuel

if the Alt go's bad your batts will not charge... So that might be dead on... and the car will not run long on just a batt

Check the alternater and all your wires coming off ur battery. Make sure u have a good connection

okay i still cnt figure out whats wrong

update changed battery and cables
engine will crank but not fire up
pull cap of and cranked engine.. rotor does spin
cap and rotor no signs of corrioson
checked all relays they are fine
i even swaped back and forth to double check they work
still no fuel or fire
on the fuel relay i have to with fire and two with out, i jump one of the fires with teh blue and white and i can hear the fuel pump kick on

so what is it? can it be the ecu?

ive done some researching but still everyone keeps pointing towards teh typical t-belt theroy or battery, look im that naive not miss that ive been doing alot of troubleshooting and its getting me nowhere any suggestion are still highly appreciated.

what is the idpm? does mine have one?

correction on my vehicle after looking at the title

its a 2002 nissan xterra v6 3.3 manual transmission
and the computer reads mec07-370 c1 1807

How many miles on it?

Very strongly doubt its the ECM....that'd be the very last thing to go.

not saying it is, but if it WAS the ECU you may not get a CEL. May be a dumb question, but did you check your fuses? I know my Prelude had a main +12 feed on the interior fuse box, as well as a 7.5 amp fuse under the hood labeled as RADIO/BACKUP (constant for the radio + backup power for the ECU).

While highly unlikely, there is still a chance just the right fuse or fuses popped so either your ECU isn't functioning correctly (again highly unlikely but not impossible) or your fuel pump isn't operating. With all you've posted above, I've seen you pulled relays etc etc but never mentioned having checked the fuses

it has 140k, okay so supposed that "the distirbutor is bad" would that also cause not for the fuel pump not to kick on?

does the computer rely on a signal first

like does the computer have to sense the distributor coil or something first then it activates teh fuel pump etc? could that be a reason why its not getting fire?

140k miles...has the timing belt been changed at all? Should've been done at 105k miles

If not, that could be the possible culprit and you're looking at a new engine if that's the reason....

dont think the tbelt went, if it had i think there would be a ton of clatter when she tried to start it

come on guys ,, i already told yall its not the timeing belt the rotor is spining

no spark
no fuel relay kicking on

it has to be the ecu and i bet it is i guess im going to have to buy to it to prove yall all wrong and that this woman was right

Do what you wish. You will need the specific engine and transmission to match im not sure about the year to match

Make sure the X is totally in park, I went to Jacksonville last Christmas, had an 04 focus then, and I spent three extra days there because the car wouldn't start. Just when I was about to have it towed to a repair shop my mothers boyfriend askied me if it was in park all the way. The car would turn and turn but never start and it had no spark, I even replaced the coil pack. Finally after he asked me that I put the key in and turned it all the way before starting and put it into neutral then back into park and it fired right up!

So give that a shot, shift the X threw the gears and then back to park and see if it starts.

Oh yeah this is only a possible solution if it is a automatic.

yeah its not an automatic its a manual, i wish it wouldve been that wasy, now im on the hunt for an ecu...

im really really really thinking about taking a week off for vacation and swaping in that small block chevy 350/combo with the 700 r4.. i that seems extreme but when my husband was here we did kit cars all the time and had to customize alot

any body kknow of anyone doing this swap? and any aftermarket kits that might assist someone doing this swap

yeah its not an automatic its a manual, i wish it wouldve been that wasy, now im on the hunt for an ecu...

im really really really thinking about taking a week off for vacation and swaping in that small block chevy 350/combo with the 700 r4.. i that seems extreme but when my husband was here we did kit cars all the time and had to customize alot

any body kknow of anyone doing this swap? and any aftermarket kits that might assist someone doing this swap

i dont know your year but this is 3.3L manual trans 4x4 computer

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-Nissan-Xterra-3-3L-Manual-4x4-MEC07-330-ECM-ECU-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414857ae71QQitemZ28038 6580081QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

EDIT>> Re-re-read your first post, and this time I noticed you DID list you checked your fuses lol. Man, what a miss!

I'm just checking again, you did check all your fuses correct? (you said relays earlier just making sure you didn't overlook a simple step!)

Something simple like a ground strap being loose could cause the ECU signal issue as well.

There are several ground straps, and as the battery connections were loose, requiring taco foil, etc...there's a chance other electricals have also been worked loose, etc.

As you seem mechanically savvy, trace the ground paths and check all the straps for continuity.

I'd rather do a free strap tightening than a few hundred or more for a new ECU.

There has been some issues with corrosion at the tops of the fuel pump (Under pass side rear seat hatch) which can also result in no fuel....but you'd have spark.

Some distributor issues have also been found, which do result in a lack of spark.

You can jump the plug connection and see if the spark makes it w/o needing the ECU, etc.


If everything else is OK, and it is the ECU, at least you'll KNOW that's your solution....despite the odds against it.

Did you get the truck used?


:wink-big:

going to check the ground straps i only found the one in the engine comp.. ill double check all fuses and relays, thanks

which wires or connections can i jump to by pass the ecu to see if i get spark?

I skimmed through this so excuse me if this is answered,
but can you scan it with a code reader? if your ECU is bad it won't communicate with a code reader so that should rule that out. what lights came on exactly when you were driving? does it fire on any cylinder when you crank it or just crank and crank and crank?

Honey,your doin a great job.99% of women would have no clue.Where ya from,cause is anyone on here close to ya,for help.Good luck.

My quick reply:
1) if you had to use foil to make it turn over, you need new battery connectors. Battery may or may not be irretrievably dead. A good auto parts store can diagnose this (I prefer Advance Auto - many gearhead friends have worked there, and they seem honest).
2) bad battery connections CAN fry an ECU, but my experience is that ECUs are very durable, and short of inherent issues within them, they tend to withstand power problems fairly well.

If it is #1, solution is $15 worth of battery cables to + and -.
If it is #2, it's $400 or so. Then it needs to be flashed by a dealer to get the firmware up to date.

Tray

heck who knows it could be the distributer itself

update guys;;

okay i gave in, i found a guy here localy in san antonio, tx (thats where im from btw)
he came out charged me 50 an hour..

he checked everything i checked basically and checked and said i had power in my harness going to the distributor, but when he cranked he said no spark so he said hee wasnt sure it might just be the distrubutor(dang im paying this guy like yall said member)

anyways he said the battery was bad and to get the alternator checked, and thatll hell charge 400 for the removal and replacement of the distrubutor set on time etc..

i thanked him any ways and turned down the offer

so i take off the alternator and battery take it to autozone

battery was bad: they gave me a new one
alternator was bad too: just ordered a new one should be here thursday,
so do you think i still have to get the distrubutor?
im hoping it was just the alternator shorting out and not let the ecu act properply o yeah the cables were replaced.. i found the grouind straps to be ok they had the proper resistance..

so any other things?

gosh i really hope its the darn alternator :


well i still lovely appreciate yalls responses and helpful suggestions o yeah to answer the gentleman about the fuses yes they were quaprupled check along with the relays

Start with the Alt and Battery. That would explain why the car just died But doesnt explain why your not getting spark. My alt went bad and i was able to drive on the battery for 40 miles till i got it fixed.

Dont spend anything extra till you know you need it. If the alt and batt fix your troubles then your good. if not take the next step to diag the problem and repair it.