Considering HDPE DIY skids in front and rear sections as others have done... I haven't priced, but would look at 1/2" maybe 3/4" from what I've read in here..

Question is - if you used HDPE, why didn't you get 3/16" steel sheet and cut to fit instead?

Does the HDPE bend/flex just slightly enough to fit across the crossmember areas? and steel won't so not an easy DIY?

Or is it just easier to work with HDPE to cut and trim? But a flat steel plate could work just the same - just more PITA?

thanks!

I think its just that the HDPE was cheaper and different...

For some applications, as its slippery, it can slide over things easily....but its not really too protective in that it bends in response to impact.

Typically, if used at all, its over something that is strong enough to resist damage in of itself, but to facilitate sliding.

:D

hdpe was cheaper and easier to fabricate from what i read in other threads. as with steel you have to get all the hole right for the oil drains and transmission drains and all that and is more time consuming if you only have a grinder at your disposal. you could go to a local fab shop and see if they could cut it out but then your using their torches and have to pay for their time and their gas used to cut it all out. if you have an oxy-acetylene torch or a plasma cutter and a steady hand then go steel.

Oh - I thought steel would be cheaper. I'll look into steel as well. I dont have ability to bend or weld, but if flat sheets can work, I'll check out options for cutting.

All of the metal skid plate pics I've seen seem to have bends or welds in them, and even the hdpe pics seem to flex to fit - so wasn't sure if flat steel sheet was an option

I had no way of cutting thick steel but at least wamted something under there.

hdpe is just easier to work with you can use a sawsall or a table saw to cut it out then use a hand drill and bits for the holes. with steel drilling holes takes a lot longer and you need to use drill bit oil or you will burn out the bit. hdpe would be if you dont want to spend the money on the steel and take it some where to get cut.

You really want some folds and bends in the steel, rather than flat plates, especially as the spaces to protect are not all flat.

A skid is typically to hold incoming strikes at a distance from vulnerable parts, w/o being penetratred, and w/o transmitting the impact to the parts you want to protect.

A flat plate can help prevent penetration, but might be too close to what you're trying to protect to prevent impact shock/pushing up on the part, etc.

Its like blocking a punch...if I swing at your face, and you block by putting your hand ON your face, you are going to suffer damage....

...But, if your hand is a foot from your face in the way of my incoming fist, even if I push your hand in, your face is a LOT better protected.

And so forth.

So flat HDPE or steel plate, is like blocking with your hand on your face.

:)

This is WHY people bother to fab these things...the folds and bends add strengh, and add crush space.

OK - I am probably being naive in thinking I could cut the 3/16" steel as easily as i had in mind without much in the way of special tools other than a good blade.

Good points - thanks. I may look into then 'shimming' a hdpe plate with a strip of HDPE on either end where it attches to the cross member. THen cut at angle so it has a same shape as a bend to glance objects off easier than a blunt end. THis may get another 1/2 - 3/4" clearance btw the palte and items to be protected.

Just a thought.. have to crawl back under and look if this even makes sense to do.

Thanks for all the perspectives!

You will end up needing a way to attach the HDPE, as it doesn't have the structural integrity of steel, so it won't hold a screw, etc...and, finding good places to bolt it with big washers to give more surface area support, etc, under there is tough.

The best way is to make some sturdy brackets, a skeleton of steel, to support it, and help hold it in place/off of what its supposed to be protecting.


Cambering the edges is good, it reduces the catch points, etc.

And yeah, good 3/16" steel plate is not easily cut with average driveway tools.

:D

You really want some folds and bends in the steel, rather than flat plates, especially as the spaces to protect are not all flat.
....
This is WHY people bother to fab these things...the folds and bends add strengh, and add crush space.

The oil pan, front diff look like they extend just a hair below the frame/crossmembers.. So I see the point in adding crush space.

When I look at skidrow/Shrock, they appear to be flat as well though. Just cut to fit perfectly.. Maybe just the pics... But seems like these may lay right against what they need to protect as well...

For anyone who has these, is that right? Do these add space as well?

Anybody delve into this a little further? I'm considering a small sheet as a front skid for my new bumper which will be reinforced with the crossmembers and skeleton of the bumper. It will be from 3/4" HDPE. Being that it is a front skid, it will be more of a splash guard in regards to it's function but it will also serve as a protective skid to the bumper. I also plan/hope to add maybe 3/16" or 1/2" HDPE strips along the bottom of my frame rails. My rails are taking a ton of abuse and really getting gouged up and are susceptible to rusting now. Once I grind out the bad spots, I will be repainting it and the HDPE will be more of a protective skin. I'm not going with HDPE anywhere underneath for multiple reasons. It's not going to withstand impacts of rocks and ledges without flexing into what it is supposed to be protecting. Heat will distort the shaping as well as retain heat around the transmission and other vitals. I'm keeping my shrock skids on the belly.

Just seeing if anyone has ventured into this idea yet.

My concern with HDPE is it will keep heat in. Where metal would shed heat away.

My concern with HDPE is it will keep heat in. Where metal would shed heat away.

That's one of the reasons I would never use it underneath. This will be for a front skid only much like the Shrock front-skid. The framerail protection will only be strips the width of the rails itself and no more. The exhaust will warp and distort the shape for one thing but not being able to dissipate hate from around the transmission is a major flaw in it. I have Shrock skids underneath like I said and have no plans to get rid of them. I KNOW they will withstand whatever I can throw at it. :)

I've had my "plastic skids" through all 4 seasons and when I pulled them off to pull the motor they took the orrigional shape right away. They have not mis shapen cause of weather or the heat of the motor and I only have 1/4" thick. Theyy do have scrapes froom rocks too but nothin has gone all the way through. If I were to do it over again I would go with 3/4 thick. Just need bigger hardware. This was a test to see how they would hold up and I was impressed. For those that can't afford steel skids this is a great option but go with thick stuff 3/4 or better.

Cool. Thanks Mike! :)