im at about 500 miles in my new 06 off road 6spd X

i plan on buying a bulk pack of filters and oil drain plug O rings and changing the oil myself regularly (3k miles)

I would like to change it at 1000-1200 when the break in period ends and then do 3000 after that. with the nissan oem filters because i guess it has some kind of anti drain thing?

I am thinking 10w30 for winter and 10w40 for summer i am in southcentral PA

help me out as far as dyno and syth i have always used mobil one fully synthetic in my 2.5rs subaru but the dealer told me they use dyno

what would be better and if i use synth will it affect the warranty and what not



any advice would help out this X nebie

thanks

im at about 500 miles in my new 06 off road 6spd X

i plan on buying a bulk pack of filters and oil drain plug O rings and changing the oil myself regularly (3k miles)

I would like to change it at 1000-1200 when the break in period ends and then do 3000 after that. with the nissan oem filters because i guess it has some kind of anti drain thing?

I am thinking 10w30 for winter and 10w40 for summer i am in southcentral PA

help me out as far as dyno and syth i have always used mobil one fully synthetic in my 2.5rs subaru but the dealer told me they use dyno

what would be better and if i use synth will it affect the warranty and what not



any advice would help out this X nebie

thanks

This is a point that I've seen open to debate alot. I'm old school. I use regular dinosaur oil and I change it religeously every 3K miles, along with the filter. I've never had any engine trouble with any of my vehicles to date. So to me, I dont see why I should spend more, when what I have been using is just fine.

But then, thats just my .02 cents :)

my .02 will always be full syn, from my experience going from dino oil to full syn totally woke up my engine(civic and xterra), full syn. atf as well, either modil 1 or amsoil

This is a point that I've seen open to debate alot. I'm old school. I use regular dinosaur oil and I change it religeously every 3K miles, along with the filter. I've never had any engine trouble with any of my vehicles to date. So to me, I dont see why I should spend more, when what I have been using is just fine.

But then, thats just my .02 cents :)


what brand and visc have you been using?

what brand and visc have you been using?

I use 10W-30 year round. As far as brands Im not really picky, I ususally go for a name brand i.e. Mobil, Valvoline, Sunoco etc... I wont use the store/generic brand. But of the name brands I just get the one thats the cheapest.

10w30 mobil 1 full syn every three thousand miles.... If it gets cold where you're at ( below 0 degrees F ), you could go with the 5w30.... During the winter.. ;)

I just did mine 10/30 mobil 1, had 4865 on trip 2 DOH :eek:

Does anyone know of long term testing of dyno VS. synth in the 4.0 v6 engine?
I ran 5w30 mobil synth in my sooby the entire life of the car yeah it ran great but it was expensive. Plus that was only 4.3 quarts with a filter i think i remember seeing the X taking 5.6 or 6.4 cant remember...


$$$$$$$

if synth is going to make it last longer in the long run and run better than ill suck it up and pay for it I always have in the past anyway......but if the dealerships are funny about using sythn instead of dyno then ill stick to reg

oh yeah and do you guys save your receipts from buying your filters, washers, and oil so that if something goes wrong you can prove you've used the right oil and what not?


My dad suggested this to me...

oh yeah and do you guys save your receipts from buying your filters, washers, and oil so that if something goes wrong you can prove you've used the right oil and what not?


My dad suggested this to me...

I dont, but its a good idea. I asked the Op manager at the dealer this, and he said that as long as the oil isnt sludge when they drain it to inspect a possible engine problem they wouldnt have any reason to doubt that the oil was maintained.

But you never know......

I think I might just use dyno to save myself some money and change it at 3000 religously with an oem nissan filter and nissan replacement drain plug ring.

Probably will use Mobil 1 10w30

Thanks for all your help.

One more question, is there really and major benefit to running sythetic over dyno in this engine? Gas mpg? Engine life ect?

I think I might just use dyno to save myself some money and change it at 3000 religously with an oem nissan filter and nissan replacement drain plug ring.

Probably will use Mobil 1 10w30

Thanks for all your help.

One more question, is there really and major benefit to running sythetic over dyno in this engine? Gas mpg? Engine life ect?

My understanding from what I hear is that synthetic doesnt break down as easily & lasts longer. Im sure my counterpart here will extol the virtues of synthetic in detail for you shortly, but as for me, like I said, Im old school. :)

boofer7 you drive a new SE right?

i just want to make sure if i do run sythetic it wont wear out all the seals and gaskets fast like synth sometime does



edit: just called my dealerships service department and they use 5w30 dyno sunoco brand year round...

do you think its ok for me to use that thin of an oil in the heat of summer

i mean i guess if the dealership uses it year rounds it fine...

boofer7 you drive a new SE right?

i just want to make sure if i do run sythetic it wont wear out all the seals and gaskets fast like synth sometime does



edit: just called my dealerships service department and they use 5w30 dyno sunoco brand year round...

do you think its ok for me to use that thin of an oil in the heat of summer

i mean i guess if the dealership uses it year rounds it fine...

Yes I have an 05 SE.

I believe 10W-30 is the most often used/reccomended oil weight these days. I use it year round in all of my cars.

bought a case of mobil 1 clean 5000 5w30

is there any easy way to change the oil with the skidplates on?

So you went with the synthetic after all?!!?

No, remove the skid plate, it's just 4 bolts.

Dont forget to loosen the flux capacitor.

flux capacitor funny

no mobil 1 clean 5000 is dyno
5w30


so you can get to the drain plug and filter by removing 4 bolts?

yeah, the filter is right behing the plate.

Just give it a shot, you'll see.

yeah i still have a while to go only at 500 miles

I'm going to change it at 1200 then wait again until 4200 then go 3k from there

so how in the world do i get this skidplate off

i only see 2 little bolts that looks like it lets you clean up the mess the oil filter leaves and the drain plug for the oil pan is way back further on an angle up high


correct?

Synthetic motor oils are manufactured specifically to stand up to the severe conditions that conventional motor oils cannot take. Synthetic motor oils are much more viscous and reduce wear and friction much better. Because of the higher viscosity of synthetic motor oil, engines can run cooler as a result of less friction.

Synthetic oils have also been formulated to resist foaming, which can be a problem with hot conventional motor oils. Some synthetic oil manufacturers state their oils can withstand temperatures of 400 degrees and higher without breaking down and loosing its viscosity.

Overall, synthetic oils flow easier in a wide range of climate condition, contain less contaminates, resist wear better, give higher gas mileage, and of course, cost more.

If you decide that synthetic motor oil is too expensive for you, make sure you are taking into account less frequent oil changes if you use synthetic. Otherwise, conventional motor oil will be fine; just make sure you use a quality oil and change it at recommended intervals.

But for those that like the benefits of synthetic motor oil, you can't go wrong. There are many top name companies providing quality synthetic motor oils for your vehicles.

It never hurts to do a little shopping around. There are dozens of very reputable motor oil dealers on the internet

I'm with Ricer X. I just bought my Xterra, but my two previous vehicles had nothing but synthetic in them. I had a 98 Ranger that was bought new and driven very hard for 130k miles, never gave me a single problem, except the alternator went bad around 110k. After that, I bought a used '02 SVT Focus. The previous owner used synthetic and I followed suit, that car still runs like a champ. I abuse them crap out of my vehicles when I'm behind the wheel, but I baby 'em while I'm under the hood. I used Mobil 1, factory specified viscosity, and changed the oil and filter religiously at 5000 miles, and as soon as my X is broken in I will do the same thing. Now that I think about it, that'll be happening this week...

ill be using PP syn here when i get to my first oil change ( penzoil platium) lil cheaper than M1 and a BETTER oil from many tests ive seen from the oil geek on my camaro site

Guys, just be wary of the real advantages synthetics provide above and beyond conventional oils. There's a lot of hype out there ... mostly from the oil companies that stand to make more profit from the pricier lubes.

Yes, some synthetics have better additive packages (because there is more 'room' inside their much higher price for a few pennies worth of additives. However, this is a generality and difficult to prpve ... even when looking at oil analysis (spectrographic).

As for mileage gains, I don't think you will see much, if any difference between 5W-30s ... 'synthetic' or 'conventional.' When companies like Ford and Honda wanted to use oil to improve fuel economy, they spec'd a 5W-20 (lighter weight) instead of spec'ing a synthetic 5W-30.

I use synthetics seasonally ... often depending on what's on sale. I like their ability to flow in frigid temps as it gets well below zero around here.

For use the rest of the year, I use conventional oils. They work great and cost less. The SL and SM oils are highly refined ... often Group II, II+ or a blend of Group I and III base oils. These are very stable ... unlike the Group I conventional stocks from 10+ years ago.

And of course, the term 'synthetic' is more of a marketing term rather than a scientific one. Most synthetics are Group III petroleum-based oils, albeit highly refined. Few are still PAO (Group IV) and ester (Group V) ... but even these true synthetic base stocks have some drawbacks.