Anyone change their hubs to the Warn manual type? Kind of bugs me that I can't shift on the fly at higher speeds then 40KM/h, and thought I may change they hubs so I could lock them during the winter months.
Any thoughs or recommendations?
Riker

Hello, For a serious off-roader...this is a good idea because the manual hubs will keep it lock and is stronger unit.

But if you are a casual off-roader...this is not needed. Why go out to lock the hubs everytime you go off road. If it is raining,muddy, or hot? It is more easy to shift inside than to go out side everytime off roading. Twice "once to lock and once to unlock.

My older trucks had these...humbug. I really like to stay inside and just shift to go into 4-wheel drive.

Just my thoughts on this.........Aloha

I agree with Kona.

Especially if it is snowing, I do not want to get out of the truck every time to put it in 4wd and again to take it out of 4wd.

i dont have a 4x4 but if i did i would much rather have the auto. why get out, when you can stay in!

the Warn hubs are so worth it. so much stronger then the stock hubs if you do wheel your x they will break on you. plus u got to get to air down your tires any ways...so u just have to turn the dial and your done.

the hubs that come from the factory are warn......

The factory units are also Warns...and, they seem to break LESS than the aftermarket Warn Manual Hubs anyway....so the after market Warns have been no stronger than the Factory Warns.

BTW - If you shift into 4wd....drive etc....and then go back to 2wd, but don't go in reverse....you're able to shift back into 4wd on the fly.

The REAL advantage to the manual hubs is NOT strength, and CERTAINLY not convenience....

Its being able to disconnect the front drivetrain and freewheel if needed.

:D

The factory units are also Warns...and, they seem to break LESS than the aftermarket Warn Manual Hubs anyway....so the after market Warns have been no stronger than the Factory Warns.

BTW - If you shift into 4wd....drive etc....and then go back to 2wd, but don't go in reverse....you're able to shift back into 4wd on the fly.

The REAL advantage to the manual hubs is NOT strength, and CERTAINLY not convenience....

Its being able to disconnect the front drivetrain and freewheel if needed.

:D

you beat me to it

in certain situations they could make it much easier to limp off of a trail

I have heard that the auto hubs that i have wont engage unless there is forward movment after shifting ,hence if you'r already stuck they won't do you any good:talk2much:

they wont enguage until you drive in reverse for about 10 feet....

I have heard that the auto hubs that i have wont engage unless there is forward movment after shifting ,hence if you'r already stuck they won't do you any good

True, but it doesn't take much to get them to engage, so you if you can rock it from your stuck location, you should be ok. Otherwise, yes, you may be still stuck.


they wont enguage until you drive in reverse for about 10 feet....

No, you don't need to drive in reverse at all to engage them.

sorry i thought they were like some of the other hubs where you have to back up a bit befor they engage

To clarify the dyslexic stuff above...

;)

The trick with the auto hubs is to engage them BEFORE getting into trouble....like at the trail head, before heading out in inclement weather, etc....so you are IN 4wd...

If you don't need 4wd....go back to 2wd, but don't go in reverse....that way, the hubs are already engaged, and, if you DO get stuck, you DO NOT have to roll forward to mesh the gears again.

Rolling backwards in 4wd does nothing but propel you backwards in 4wd....you stay engaged.

If you want to BE in 4wd from 2wd from scratch...its rolling FOWARD - NOT backwards, to engage the gears and get into 4wd.

Review:

1. If you think you MIGHT need 4wd later....get into it now...then back to 2wd if 4wd is not needed.

2. If, after 1. above, you have to go in reverse in 2wd, then go BACK into 4wd to re-engage the gears in case you need 4wd later.

3. If you wait until you are already stuck to first try 4wd...yes, you will need to roll forward a few feet to engage the gears, UNLESS you did 1. above.

4. Remember...you only have LOW gearing when in 4 Lo...in 2wd Hi, or even 4wd Hi, you are geared higher from the T-Case, and you are either burning the clutch, or putting more heat load on the auto tranny when off road, etc.

Make sense?


:D

yes it dose make sense thanks for clearing up my ignorant remarks... i dont have 4wd so i will keep my mouth shut.......LOL

To clarify the dyslexic stuff above...

;)

The trick with the auto hubs is to engage them BEFORE getting into trouble....like at the trail head, before heading out in inclement weather, etc....so you are IN 4wd...

If you don't need 4wd....go back to 2wd, but don't go in reverse....that way, the hubs are already engaged, and, if you DO get stuck, you DO NOT have to roll forward to mesh the gears again.

Rolling backwards in 4wd does nothing but propel you backwards in 4wd....you stay engaged.


If you want to BE in 4wd from 2wd from scratch...its rolling FOWARD - NOT backwards, to engage the gears and get into 4wd.

Review:

1. If you think you MIGHT need 4wd later....get into it now...then back to 2wd if 4wd is not needed.

2. If, after 1. above, you have to go in reverse in 2wd, then go BACK into 4wd to re-engage the gears in case you need 4wd later.

3. If you wait until you are already stuck to first try 4wd...yes, you will need to roll forward a few feet to engage the gears, UNLESS you did 1. above.

4. Remember...you only have LOW gearing when in 4 Lo...in 2wd Hi, or even 4wd Hi, you are geared higher from the T-Case, and you are either burning the clutch, or putting more heat load on the auto tranny when off road, etc.

Make sense?


:D

I'd like to clarify it some more.

The hubs lock from the action of the driveshaft (axles). Therefore it doesn't matter if your stuck or not, the action of the driveshaft turning (4HI or 4LO) will cause the hubs to lock and the front wheels drive.

If you want to prove it leave your truck in 2HI. Crawl underneath and turn the front driveshaft firmly in either direction. The hubs will lock (unless they are broken) and you will not be able turn the driveshaft either way.

To free the front hubs drive the truck backwards and/or forwards about 10'.

I'd like to clarify it some more.

The hubs lock from the action of the driveshaft (axles). Therefore it doesn't matter if your stuck or not, the action of the driveshaft turning (4HI or 4LO) will cause the hubs to lock and the front wheels drive.


if you're stuck and you can't move, chances are pretty good that you're not gonna get the auto hubs engaged. both front wheels would have to be able to rotate.

if you're stuck and you can't move, chances are pretty good that you're not gonna get the auto hubs engaged. both front wheels would have to be able to rotate.

It has nothing to do with the wheels. The driveshaft turning locks the hubs and that happens when you select 4HI or 4LO.

How problematic are the factory automatic locking hubs? Having manual hubs and locking them in anticipation of trouble simply pushes the front axle assemblies by way of the rolling wheels, and increases fuel consumption and wear and tear. Minimal issues if you are on a trail, but important overall if this is done on the street at all times.

Here is something fun to try with manual hubs. I used to do this with my old Chevy: Leave the hubs unlocked and shift into 4wd lo range, then dragrace people at red lights. you will be surprised when you fly past camaros and mustangs. It's very funny. of course you can only go about 40mph but you sure get there quick.