carfiguy
08-28-2009, 07:53 AM
The next step in the process for me is the door panels. The project will consist of installing dynamat xtreme in all 4 doors, building fiberglass shells with xtc baffles, and installing the speakers.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
IF you rely on your 6x9 front speakers to provide most/all of your bass output, you will need to use the "alternate" version of the front door mod.
Ok, Lets go!
1. Remove all 4 door panels. THis is really easy in the X. The armrest covers are pulled up using either your fingers or a small flat head screwdriver to pry them loose. They basically pull straight up. These are the parts on either side of the actual interior pull handle.
2. There are 2 bolts that need to be removed. Either a phillips head screwdriver or 10mm nut driver will do the trick.
3. Using a small flat head screwdriver, pop up the "cup" that is behind the chrome door opener handle in the top part of the door.
4. The front part of the cup and the rear part both come out easily, just dont get too carried away and break off the plastic snap in clips.
5. there will be a bronze 10mm nut behind the cup to remove.
6. all the bolts are now removed (3 total) it is time to pull the door panel off.
7. along the bottom of the door, get your fingers or a large flat head screwdriver behind the panel and pull straight out. If you use a screwdriver, wrap the blade in elect tape to keep from scratching up the paint.
8. after pulling all the tabs loose, lift the door panel out of the way and set it aside.
9. remove the cheap white foam liner on the door. it truly is worthless.
10. cover the entire door with dynamat and rollout all wrinkles. take your time with this, it is the most crucial part of the install. pull the wires for the power windows/doors through the dynamat. make sure the door is completely covered and overlap the sheets to seal it up.
XTC Baffles
6x9 and 6.5" baffles are used.
The 6x9 baffles are too deep, they have to be reduced by 1". It is easier to cut the back off of them 1" from the end then insert the piece that you cutoff into the baffle so that the back of the baffle is now even with the cut you just made. this will create an overlap in the back rim of the baffle which will help strengthen the enclosure.
1. spray the outside of the baffles with adhesive (3M #77 is great)
2. wrap a single layer of fiberglass cloth completely around the back of the baffles including the rear. you are basically making a soft rim top hat out of these baffles.
3. coat the fiberglass with resin and let dry.
4. wrap the newly made enclosures with dynamat extreme. seal it up good but do not make multiple layers. your enclosure will not fit if you do.
5. I put dynamat on the inside also, why not?
6. run speaker wire through the BOTTOM of the baffle, not the back wall. Bad things will happen if you run it through the back wall.
7. Installing in the rear doors is easy, you just have to force it into the hole.
8. the front doors are not fun. remove the factory plastic housing from the door panel and take out the 6x9 speakers.
9. cutoff the rainshield on the top of the plastic housing.
10. force the newly made baffle through the plastic housing till it is fully inserted and seated on the plastic housing. this part takes some effort. This is also why i only go 1 layer deep on fiberglass, your enclosure needs to be somewhat flexible or else you have no chance of getting this in.
ALTERNATE METHOD FOR FRONT
if you need your 6x9's to provide significant bass output, cut out the bottom of the baffle enclosure. do not remove the back wall, only the bottom part. do this after inserting into the plastic housing or else your enclosure will not survive the process. If you do this, i would recommend dynamatting the inside of the exterior door metal also. make sure you clean the door first or the dynamat will not hold long term.
How does it sound??
The midrange and imaging are remarkably better. The soundstage in the front moved from around the bottom of the steering wheel to midway up the windshield and got dramatically wider. This is the single most significant mod you can make to impact imaging in your X.
AMP RACK PROJECT IS NEXT!!
This may not be the best description you have ever read, I would be glad to answer any questions or clarify as needed.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
IF you rely on your 6x9 front speakers to provide most/all of your bass output, you will need to use the "alternate" version of the front door mod.
Ok, Lets go!
1. Remove all 4 door panels. THis is really easy in the X. The armrest covers are pulled up using either your fingers or a small flat head screwdriver to pry them loose. They basically pull straight up. These are the parts on either side of the actual interior pull handle.
2. There are 2 bolts that need to be removed. Either a phillips head screwdriver or 10mm nut driver will do the trick.
3. Using a small flat head screwdriver, pop up the "cup" that is behind the chrome door opener handle in the top part of the door.
4. The front part of the cup and the rear part both come out easily, just dont get too carried away and break off the plastic snap in clips.
5. there will be a bronze 10mm nut behind the cup to remove.
6. all the bolts are now removed (3 total) it is time to pull the door panel off.
7. along the bottom of the door, get your fingers or a large flat head screwdriver behind the panel and pull straight out. If you use a screwdriver, wrap the blade in elect tape to keep from scratching up the paint.
8. after pulling all the tabs loose, lift the door panel out of the way and set it aside.
9. remove the cheap white foam liner on the door. it truly is worthless.
10. cover the entire door with dynamat and rollout all wrinkles. take your time with this, it is the most crucial part of the install. pull the wires for the power windows/doors through the dynamat. make sure the door is completely covered and overlap the sheets to seal it up.
XTC Baffles
6x9 and 6.5" baffles are used.
The 6x9 baffles are too deep, they have to be reduced by 1". It is easier to cut the back off of them 1" from the end then insert the piece that you cutoff into the baffle so that the back of the baffle is now even with the cut you just made. this will create an overlap in the back rim of the baffle which will help strengthen the enclosure.
1. spray the outside of the baffles with adhesive (3M #77 is great)
2. wrap a single layer of fiberglass cloth completely around the back of the baffles including the rear. you are basically making a soft rim top hat out of these baffles.
3. coat the fiberglass with resin and let dry.
4. wrap the newly made enclosures with dynamat extreme. seal it up good but do not make multiple layers. your enclosure will not fit if you do.
5. I put dynamat on the inside also, why not?
6. run speaker wire through the BOTTOM of the baffle, not the back wall. Bad things will happen if you run it through the back wall.
7. Installing in the rear doors is easy, you just have to force it into the hole.
8. the front doors are not fun. remove the factory plastic housing from the door panel and take out the 6x9 speakers.
9. cutoff the rainshield on the top of the plastic housing.
10. force the newly made baffle through the plastic housing till it is fully inserted and seated on the plastic housing. this part takes some effort. This is also why i only go 1 layer deep on fiberglass, your enclosure needs to be somewhat flexible or else you have no chance of getting this in.
ALTERNATE METHOD FOR FRONT
if you need your 6x9's to provide significant bass output, cut out the bottom of the baffle enclosure. do not remove the back wall, only the bottom part. do this after inserting into the plastic housing or else your enclosure will not survive the process. If you do this, i would recommend dynamatting the inside of the exterior door metal also. make sure you clean the door first or the dynamat will not hold long term.
How does it sound??
The midrange and imaging are remarkably better. The soundstage in the front moved from around the bottom of the steering wheel to midway up the windshield and got dramatically wider. This is the single most significant mod you can make to impact imaging in your X.
AMP RACK PROJECT IS NEXT!!
This may not be the best description you have ever read, I would be glad to answer any questions or clarify as needed.