So, I decided I want to start riding some of the trails at the lake outside of town. I want to buy a bike that I can keep for a while and not need to worry about upgrading in the future. It will definetly be used, I have seen the prices for some of the new bikes... not for me. My question is, what are some good brands I can look for, any parts that NEED to be upgraded on these, or any other information you can give me to help me in my search would be awesome.

My favorite is Gary Fisher but you'll probably have better luck finding a Trek, Giant or Specialized bike that's used. They are all good brands. The components that would need upgrading or replacement would be the derailleurs. I've been out of that game for a while so I'm sure the brands that were tops back then aren't there now. Shimano Deore XT's were tops when I was riding but I'm sure they've been replaced by newer stuff now.

You also need to try out the two different types of shifters... grip shift and quick/thumb shift. I've had lots of little nagging/shifting issues with the quick shift and it's a bit more complex mechanism if you have to fix it. Grip shift is nice but some people don't like it. I think it's kind of like manual tranny versus auto-tranny in vehicles. Pro's and Con's to each.

If it has a front shock, depending on how old the bike is, the dampeners may need replacing.

That's all I can think of right off the top of my head.

IMO, I would stay away from any Walmart, KMart, Costco, Toys R' Us, etc bikes...price maybe low, but you're wasting your money. I would invest in the following companies:

Santa Cruz Heckler: All Mountain Riding
Iron Horse Warrior 6.0: Trail Riding
Iron Horse MKIII (DW-Link): Aggressive Trail Riding (Not All Mountian)
Giant Reign: (All Mountain)

I chose to go with the Heckler...it's light enough for the trails and solid for all mountain rides. It' around 33lbs (which is the weight range you want to be at for trail riding).

Things you're going to want to change on a bike straight from the shop (Not in any particular order):

a) Front fork...unless the bike comes with Fox forks (best by far, Marzocchi's are good too).
b) Rear shock...unless it's a fox...you can see I prefer fox ;)
c) Derailleur, I would recommend SRAM. Their trigger shifter is awesome (if not SRAM just get a trigger shifter and not a center/twist shifter) and the derailleur is crisp and responsive.
d) Tires: I would go with Michelin or Maxxis
e) Brakes...I would stay away from rim brakes because you will be riding through dirt/sand/mud and getting debris between your pads and rim will destroy wheels fast. Get disk brakes, not mechanical but hydraulic brakes. They use the same DOT brake fluid and will provide you with the necessary braking power. I would go with Hope brakes.
f) Just like you take off the mud flaps, make sure you take off the reflectors ;)

One thing to remember, if you're going be serious, might as well invest in a bike frame and components that will last you a while and will provide you with the best performance. It's easy to buy a cheapo brand in the beginning, however, most people will want a new bike within a year.

But be warned...you think your X is expensive...I've spent more money on my bikes than on my X...

I love my gary fisher cake 3

Yeah, do NOT get a cheap ass mountain bike!

The one that I am running right now is about $4k. You need to rent one first. Go for a ride or two, and find out what you would change (ie, disck brakes vs. V-brakes, a long travel fork VS. a primarily XC fork, and you need to see if you want a full suspension or a hardtail, clipless or platform)

I don't plan on getting one of those cheap Wal-Mart bikes, like Keyz said. I was looking at Trek and Cannondale so far, but I will start to look for some of the other brands that you guys suggested. I am not sure if there is a place around here that rents bikes, but I will ask around and try to find one, or at least try and borrow one.

Also, keep a look out for a Haro or GT, in addition to the Fishers, Cannondales, Treks and Giants. They're all good bikes. I have a Haro right now, and I had a Cannondale that was stolen in college. Both good bikes.

How do the sizes work on these? I am looking around and I have no idea what size to be looking for. I am about 6'3", 205 lbs.

Edit: I am seeing a lot of bike parts on eBay and this got me thinking, would it be cheaper to buy the parts and piece a bike together?

That's the route a lot of people go now and I sort of wish I had done the same. It's kind of like modding your X, sometimes you can come out cheaper with a much better bike but it all relies on patience and smart shopping.

Things you have to consider also is the type of terrain you will be riding. Unless you run downhill courses I wouldn't go for a full-suspension bike. You lose so much of your cranking power due to the suspension absorbing/dampening each crank of the pedals. You can get them with a rear lock-out that locks the rear suspension for hill climbs but they tend to be pricey setups.

A good hardtail with a good front shock like a Marzocchi, Fox or a high-end Rock Shox will do you just as well.

With your height, a 21" to 23" frame is recommended.

Yeah, the only problem is I don't think I know enough about bikes to know what to buy, what parts I need, etc.

The internet is your friend man. Check out cycling and mountainbiking websites and read up on their product reviews and so forth. I still have a mountain of magazines I would thumb through constantly back when I was actively riding and racing. Always looking for lighter, quicker, stronger, smoother. lol

If you have a bike shop you can visit, go in and talk to the guys/gals there. I've found a lot of them are able to remain unbiased for the most part. Look at the bikes they have on the shelf and make a mental note of their components. Then go and study up on the reviews to see if they are good or bad.

Bikes can be just like vehicles. If you buy a high-end frame, you're gonna get high-end components and down the ladder respectively. You won't get a great frame and junk components unless it's a custom build by someone who didn't have a clue what they were doing. Cheap frame... cheap components.

Mind if I ask the price range you are looking to spend on a bike?

I don't really know how much I want to spend on this yet, I was actually going to ask what I should expect to spend on a decent used bike.

No love for Kona? Balls.

Last year I built a FS Kikapu from scratch. Fox Float, front and rear, Avid Seven's, 8 inch rotors, Full XT drive/shift, Mavic 555s, King headset, RaceFace hollow cranks, Eggbeaters, Mich. Wildgripper Sprints, WTB saddle.

I have about $1500 rapped up in the whole rig. Comparable bikes at the time ran 2800~3200, so doing it yourself can payoff big.

I have always ran hardtails, but i found a closeout FS frame and jumped on it.

Check out the "close out" section at wheelworld.com and beyondbikes.com for good deals on last year's frames and completes.

Oh, and FYI, i am 6'2", 195, and i ride a 19". a 21-23" my be too huge. you may need to go to a local bike shop and leg over a few to det the size right, because nothing sucks worse than riding a bike that doesn't fit you.

As far as used products-

Don't-

chainrings,
casettes,
derauillers,
cables,

Do-everything else

You can usually find a sweet deal on frames, and frames alone. I am 5'7" and I actually prefer a 20" frame.

Rent a couple of bikes dude, I am telling you. Rent a hartail, rent a full suspension, rent something light and nimble, rent something heavy and bombproof. Ride all kinds of trails, from recreation trails to hardcore crap. WEAR A HELMET!!!!

Remember as well, there are tread lightly rules to Mtn. biking too. I picked up a local trail book for $10, and that was where I learned them. I did not knwo all of them but they all make sense.

Ride with a friend. This friend should have a sweet bike too. The reason why- because they will know what they should have/should not have spent the money on.

From my experience

Go cheap on-
Stem,
seatpost,

Go decent on-
saddle,
handlebars (go cheap at first until you find your desired posture)
brake levers
shifters
wheels
brakes
cables
derauillers
bottom bracket
headset
Go expensive on
Frame
tires(experiment and study tires a lot. Purchase based on terrain)
fork(same applies for the fork as the handlebars)


Riding posture is thee most important thing IMO. Have a bike professionally sized, for free usually. You will regret it soooooo much having the wrong stem, handlebars, frame, and fork.

Do you think you can recommed some brands to look for for a certain part?

Like Michelin for tires, Specialized for frames, etc.

If you’re looking for information, I would recommend Ridmonkey.com. If you’re looking for parts, I would go to the following:
a) Cambriabike.com
b) Pricepoint.com
c) Jenson USA

However, if you want to buy Demo, New or Custom build your bike, I would go to speedgoat.com. They have great stuff there. Also, another thing you may want to try…hit up a bike park. For example, Whistler sells their rental bikes after a season or two. These bikes are top end and are well maintained. I have a few buddy’s who run used park bikes and they love then…kinda wished I went that route in the beginning.

Here is what I would recommend for components (Note: The lighter the component, the more expensive they are):

Handle Bar: Easton and Race Face. (FSA and Truvativ are ok)
- There are two kinds of bars; Raised and Flat. You will want to try both before you buy one. Width of the bars can be changed by sawing them down. Note, that some bars are not only raised but swept back. Also, depending on the diameter of the bar, your choices in stems will change.

Grips: Anything will work

Handle bar end: Anything will work

Stem: Easton, Sunline, Race Face (FSA and Truvativ are ok)
- You will need to get a stem that will incorporate the bar size. Also, depending on the steering tube, choices will change. Note, there are some companies that make direct mount stems for certain forks. These are great, but a more expensive option

Headsets: King or Race Face
- Kings are the best you can get…very smooth, but if you get a good headset with great bearings, you’re all set to go. Note that frames have different head tubes so, make sure you get the right head set size.

Forks: Fox and Marzocchi (Rock Shox is ok as long as it’s the high end stuff)
- Forks come in different lengths/travel. Depending on what your fame is made for, you will want a certain clearance/travel length. They come in two configs, single or double crown. If you’re going to be trail riding, you’ll want to go with a single, unless you’re going to freeride and DH. Also, they come either as oil or air. Either is great, however maintenance is different and air forks cost more. Make sure that the fork is compatible with the frame that you get. The steering tube comes with the fork, so you will probably want to make sure that your stems are compatible.

Rear Shock (if full suspension): Fox, Avalanche and Marzoochi
- Just like forks, they come in different lengths and styles (oil, air, external reservoir, etc) hardest thing to do is finding the right length for the frame. Usually, the frame (if full suspension) will come with a rear shock; however…they’re usually a pile.

Frame: Santa Cruz, Giant, Iron Horse, Kona (can’t believe I forgot them).
- GT, Gary Fisher and Cannondale are great companies, but if you’re going to get them, I would recommend getting their higher end. Their low end stuff, IMO, is not that great. I wouldn't get Specialized or Trek...you pay too much for what they are. Depending on your height and weight, the frame size will differ. Furthermore, you will need to choose if you want a hard tail or full suspension bike. Hard tails are great because you get the best pedal efficiency (all the power you put down on your cranks goes straight to the rear wheel); however, they’re harder on bumps. Full suspension bikes can take the hits, but you will need a good rear shock to prevent the loss of power when pedaling up hill. Another thing that can determine your ride is the rear sway bar linkage (ex. DW-Link). Try out the different styles of bikes out there.

Brakes (front and back): Hope and Magura (Hayes and Avid are ok)
- Don’t waste your money on mechanical brakes…Get Hydraulic! They will give you the necessary stopping power. Also, note that you will need to make sure that the brakes you are getting will be compatible with the fork you have. The forks do come with adapters, but sometimes, they will not fit. The kits do come with leavers and rotors but front and back systems are sold separately. Another thing you will need to determine is the caliper count. I would suggest you get more in front than in back (since you need more power in the front). You probably won’t need more than 2.

Derailleur: Sram
- Front and Rear derailleur comes together. I recommend SRAM for their trigger action leavers.

Chainrings and Cassettes: Sram
- Gearing is something you going to want to experiment. Can’t really help you hear because it’s about your comfort level. I only run 1 chain ring with 46 teeth and 9 speed cassette.

Chain: Sram

Wheels*: Don’t go cheap on wheels! I would not buy anything pre-built by a 16 year old at an unknown shop that sells ski’s and bikes. A legit place will ask you your weight, riding style, etc before building a wheel. I would recommend you to buy yours from speedgoat. I have bought a few wheels from them and not one has taco’d on me (when a wheel folds in half on impact…yeah, this happens).

Tires: Michelin or Maxxis
- You can mix and match companies and styles of tires. For example, I run Michelin’s up front and back, but different tread styles.

Cranks: Race Face or Crank Brothers,
- Materials differ, but the main thing is to get the one with the best strength to weight ratio.

Chain Guard: Evil/e-thirteen
- To keep your chain in place on rough rides, you can run chain guard

Pedals:
a) Clipless (funny, but you’re actually clipped into the bike): Shimano or Crank Brothers (Shoes and pedals come togther)
b) Platform: Sunline or Crank Brothers (Wellgo’s are ok)
- Depending on whether you like being clipped into your bike, you have a few choices. Clipless are great once you get used to them. Example, your feet won’t slip off the pedals from mud or rain, you can use the up force on the pedal for power and this reduces the weight on the bike. On the other hand, if you didn’t know what you were doing, you can’t ditch the bike when you need to nor be able to stand at a corner of a street without falling. If you don’t want clipless, then go with platforms. You will want to buy some sticky riding shoes like Five Ten. The plat forms have little spikes on them to keep you connected; however you will need gravity to stay on. On the note of the spikes…be carful…they will cut your leg up.

Saddle and Post: Your preference
- Post, I would just get something cheap and light
- Saddle, it’s about your comfort, so get one that fits

I am sticking to my guns here on this one. I have a King headset, Thomson seatpost and stem, titanium handlebars, CNC machined brake levers, XTR derauillers, shifters, casette, brakes, Race Face carbon cranks, Titanium bottom bracket, Rockshox SID fork, and the best hardtail GT makes.

I am not braggin, I am just saying that I have top of the line everything, and after the whole shebang, some of it is just not necessary. I could have spent 1K less and had stuff that still does really well.

kona or norco.check ouy pinkbike.com for info and used stuff in your area.keep asking questions and read stuff.go into a bike shop and ask them stuff.also their is a 29 inch wheel because of your hight.

Alright i'm not sure I still want to start and build a bike from scratch. I think i'll buy a complete bike and upgrade the parts that I need to.

I found a Cannondale F800 in my price range. Here is what the guys ad says:

"Wheels are AMERICAN CLASSIC Mtb 26, Tires are Hutchinson Scorpion Tubeless 2.0, Frame is an Cannondale F800 Large Furio frame grey and white. Post is a very long Thomson Elite post, Saddle is WTB Rocket V (most comfortable saddle ever), crank is Race Face (one gear only with a chain stay attached to frame) Rear cogset is Sram...looks awesome cause the inside of the cogset is Red...this is 9 speed, Rear Derailure is Sram X-9, Stem is Thomson Elite, Fork is Rock Shox Revelation 426 Air U-Turn w/ Poploc Adjust (travel is 100-130mm, Positive and Negative Schrader valves, fully adjustable and comes with lever, pump and all accessories) Handle bar is carbon fiber FSA K-Force, bar ends are bontrager, Brakeset is AVID Carbon Juicy, and rear shifter is SRAM X-9, Disc brakes are AVID Juicy, and pedals are Shimano."

thats actually a good bike,but the fork is a air fork so you have to learn to manage the air inside for the softness,firmness plus how fast it will kick back.Some other forks are simpler useing a spring.good bike,just check the frame or gat a real bike shop to look for any cracks or stress fractures.The pedals may need the special shoes which give you more power or you can buy reg. pedals cheap.good luck.

What do you think would be a good price for that bike?

depends how old it is and original cost paid,maybe even how hard it was rode.U must make sure it fits!

depends how old it is and original cost paid,maybe even how hard it was rode.U must make sure it fits!

Go to a good bike shop and have them measure you for frame size before you buy a bike. You'll regret it if you don't.

Yeah, find out the year, and KEEP IN MIND!!!! IT IS ONLY A 9 speed!!!! Mine is a 27 speed. That is one heavy ass bombproof bike. Hold your horses and fork up the dough to rent and get sixed. It wil be the best decision you can make regarding a a mountain bike.

I've been asking around an no one around here rents bikes, and the closest bike shop is about 2 1/2-3 hours away.

Holy crap!!! Call them and ask for a suggested size maybe?

I thought about calling them, but I might just make the trip up there. I really don't want to get the wrong size and then be stuck with it. I know this is going to sound dumb, but what is the advantage of having a bike with different speeds?

Well I went to Norman, OK today to visit the bike shop. I ended up walking out with a new 2008 Trek 4500. As a beginner, I think this bike will be just fine. I will probably leave it stock until I get an idea on what I think needs to be changed. I wouldn't mind having disc brakes, and I plan on getting some Michelin tires.

Aw dude, next to aviation and skiing, biking is my passion.
I read this whole thread and all of it is good advice to consider.
I've been bike riding all my life; endurance rides, cross country tours and all terrain riding. My top of the line mountain bike is a Cannodale Jeklye 800. Full suspension, remote lock-outs, hydraulic disc brakes, and a 'lefty front fork', with upgrades.

First of all, just ask yourself two important questions, and be honest.
1) 'What kind of bike bike riding would I really get into?'
2) 'What is the best bike for my money that can meet my demands?'

The first question is kind of a gut check of what will keep you going. The second is fun. How much can I spend? Should I go for the top of line or get a bike that's upgradable? Or- Am I just not sure, so I'll get a low cost bike to experiment, etc?

You're doing the right thing. Keep on asking questions, and continue to be specific. Do your reseach. Know what you're buying before you wheel & deal. I could comment forever on individule brands and products, but you're already off to a good start.

So, I decided I want to start riding some of the trails at the lake outside of town. I want to buy a bike that I can keep for a while and not need to worry about upgrading in the future. It will definetly be used, I have seen the prices for some of the new bikes... not for me. My question is, what are some good brands I can look for, any parts that NEED to be upgraded on these, or any other information you can give me to help me in my search would be awesome.

Its difficult to know what might need to be replaced without actually seeing and knowing a bit about a bike that you're considering.

That said, things to check:
1. check for cracks on the frame. Any component issues can be corrected with buying a replacement part. If your frame is cracked, you're pretty much SOL. Look closely at each of the welds from all angles. The head tube and bottom bracket area are common places for cracks to appear, and you wouldnt necessarily see them from the top or even the side... turn it upside down. Cracks should be pretty visible. Also, ride the bike. If you hear excessive creaking, this could indicate a crack. This is not a fool proof method though, because creaks could just mean that there is dirt in tight spots, like stem, handlebar, seatpost, crankset, bottom bracket, etc. These could all creak and not necessarily mean that the frame is cracked. if you do hear creaks though, really look close.
2. look for visible signs of wear. If everything is beat up and scratched, dented, etc, its a good indication that the bike has seen a lot of use. If things havent been maintained properly, it could mean that you'll need to replace a fair amount of parts in the near future.
3. check the wheels... if there is a little wobble side to side, that isnt necessarily a big deal as its not overly expensive to have a shop true the wheel. If there is a hop in the wheel, a dent or flat spot in the rim which makes the wheel out of round, this is a big deal as a shop generally wont be able to fix it. If the bike has rim brakes, you can identify this by spinning the wheel and looking closely at the brake pads... you'll see the "hop" in the rim if you do this.
4. Drivetrain wear... It'll be difficult for you to identify if the drivetrain is beat up unless you know specifically what to look for. I would do a search on the internet and see what you can dig up. I would say to look for broken teeth, but these days, many of the rings have what appear to be broken or worn out teeth to help with shifting. Its hard to tell whats what. One thing that would be a clear indication that the drivtrain needs work is the teeth of the middle chainring and/or some of the cogs in the back will be somewhat hollowed out from the chain tension, which is hard to explain without pictures - and i dont have any pics.

That's all I have for now, If you find a few bikes that peak your interest, post em up here and you might be able to get some feedback on them. If you spend $500 on a used bike, you should be able to get a pretty solid one. Check your local craigslist. I would stay away from Ebay because you cant go look/ride first.

Oh yeah, Brands dont matter so much. Most of the frames are probably made in the same factory. Most likely the bike will be equipped with shimano drivetrain, which comes in different levels. I would look for Shimano LX, XT or XTR. if it happens to be a SRAM drivetrain, look for X.7, X.9, or X.O. Anything less than LX or X.7 isn't really trail worthy.

all great advice
one more thing to remember- aluminum does not show fatigue until your bike brakes and you have to carry it home (thanks durango colorado) so...
stay away from older aluminum, or high mileage aluminum bikes
also...
you are considered a big rider (like me) i tend to destroy seat posts and bars (handle not drinking), so don't go lightweight on those components
im currently riding a trek 8500 hardtail that trek replaced my old 8000 with after it snapped in half- i love it although it is a hardtail
have fun and remember that last years components are often 40% cheaper then this years- and often just a different color

i misspelled breaks in the first sentence- my mom would kill me (70 y/o bronx english teacher)

old post, but hey I'll toss on some additional info for those also looking.

I don't know what area the original poster is from, but check to see if a college in your area has a "salvage" department. I know Penn State does here at the main campus. It's where all the older computers that have been replaced go, as well as other items that have been replaced or aren't needed anymore. Typically the electronics aren't really worth it for the price vs what you can find on ebay.

BUT.. ever fall (and possibly spring I forget) they have a huge, and I'm talking quite a few, bike auction. It's all the bikes that they've collected over the years. (Bikes abandoned, parked on campus illegally IE> ones without permits/registered, etc). My aunt got a really nice Gary Fisher for like $200. Might be something worth looking into in your area

I'll jump in here to (shameless plug).

My nearly new Rock Mountain Element is for sale - http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23557

Its a lot of bike for not a lot of money - I bought it, hurt my knee (and then my back) so it has sat ever since. Would be a great bike for someone and can do pretty much everything outside of serious hard core downhill racing. If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM