Anyone here have over 100,000 miles on their X? Any problems? I'm pretty conservative when it comes to maintainance. Every 3,000 with synthetic oil. Major 15,000, 30,000 maintainance at the dealer. How long can this thing go?

How's it going Alex Turbo, welcome to Club X.
I myself have a 2002 Silver Ice Xterra / 2001 Red Xterra, both 4x4, so I'm pretty keen on my schedule for maintenance. The 2002 has 130,000kms = 81,000 miles and the 2001 has 132,000 kms = 82,000 miles . I keep both vehicles in check all the time doing routine oil/filter/grease as per mileage. Its probally a good idea to start checking yor plugs & wires & distributer now that your getting up there in miles. Brakes are an obvious thing to check along with all your fluids. Low fluids = low performance. In the earlier models of X's , leaf springs were a bit of a commom problem with some models. I replaced one at 88,000 kms. By the sound of your post you seem to take good care of your X, so it goes without saying that you know your way around her. I just had my Head Gaskets in the 2002 replaced back in Aug, covered under warranty ( thank christ fer that ) :auslachen2-big:
My fiancee's X is a 2001 and we've had no problems with hers as of yet, besides some rust spots and corrosion on the bumper and on some of the heat sheilds. But that was taken care of with a six cold beers and and afternoon off work to stripe the bumper off and do some strippin/primin'/paintin'.

Other than that my X's are running Xcellent.

Cheers.

I am up to 189,000 on my 2000 X. Knock on wood, no problems yet.

Hey, welcome to the club, I have an 03 X but it only has 38,524, but i have a friend in california that has a 00 X and has about 154,000 and no problems so far, Nissan is a pretty reliable car, I hardly ever hear of any issues with Nissan in general. thnx

my xterra has 113000 miles i had to change the plugs after having a miss in it for a while but other than that the other problem is the exaust heat sheild rattles but i got used to it

I've got a 2006 X with the 6-speed manual, that I purchased new last march. I've put 30,000 miles on it so far and it works great. I do the oil every 5000 and use valvoline 5w-30. I don't like synthetic, it can make your seals leak.

I don't like synthetic, it can make your seals leak.

ive heard many people say that, but ive never met anyone who actually encountered that problem, has anyone here?

Booooo people that say it makes seals leak...

Hoooray synthetic.

Hoooray synthetic.

WERD...............

I have been using Mobil one for twenty years, I have never had a problem with it causing any seals to leak.

My 302 didn't like it, even with new crank seals. The Ford SVT tech finally informed me why my problem was occuring. Regular engine oil fixed the problem. No bad remarks on the Ford 302, it's one of the finest engines ever built.

I've got a 2006 X with the 6-speed manual, that I purchased new last march. I've put 30,000 miles on it so far and it works great. I do the oil every 5000 and use valvoline 5w-30. I don't like synthetic, it can make your seals leak.

Hello, Not sure where you got the idea that synthetic oil makes the seals leak, my guess is someone did have a oil leak and blame the synthetic oil.

Keep in mind this oil is more slippery and early synthetic's where 5w...today they are more heavy.

Synthetic oils where design for the military equitment, that could be in a winter area today and be ship to a desert area tomorrow without worrying about oil changes.

Benifits...is you do not need to change oil as often..many can go up 25,000 miles before oil change.

The first ones you had to put in older engines only (after 30,000 miles) because the synthetic oils did not break engines in. THAT IS HOW GOOD THEY ARE!

Mobil oil was one of the first ones in the retail markets, (in some cars,after putting in mobil synethic oils, you will need to lower the idle!)

Today there is so many companies making synethic oil! Why? because it works GREAT! better for our trucks and cars...less ware..longer engine life....and a little bit more expensive than regular oils.........Aloha

The first synthetics did not destroy the rubber seals by swelling and softening them...they didn't hurt them at all.

Cars that NEEDED the seals to swell to seal properly leaked as a result of the oil not attacking the rubber, etc.

After about a year, the synthetics simply added a swelling agent...which has been in general use since the '80's began.

So - there was some seal leakage about 2-3 decades ago....and that's it from that.

Of course, some older engines get clogged with precipitated additive packages and coked oil, from dino juice....and these clogs sometimes worked like stop leak.

When synthetics were swapped in...the deposits and sludge were driven back into suspension and removed on the following change out, etc...unclogging the journals, and or leaks, etc.

Some new engines (Mini Cooper, Corvette, etc...) essentially port and polish the engines, so there is no break in period...and these engines come with Mobil1 from the factory.

Otherwise, the idea is you break in the engine with good 'ol dino juice, and when the parts are as worn out as you'd like, you swap in the synthetic, and the wear stops.

:D

One caveat...Mobil1 finally caved in when they lost their attempt to make Castrol, and other oil makers claiming to sell 100% Full Synthetic oils, actually make 100% Full Synthtic Oil.

So Castrol for example sold a Group 3 oil, as a Full Synthetic...whereas Mobil1 had always been a Group 5...but Castrol was killing them on price.
So Mobil said F-it...we can play that game too...and they stopped making Group 5 synthetic motor oil...and dropped Mobil1 to a Group 3 too, to stay price competitive. (ALL the "Full Synthetics" on the shelves from the major brands are now just Group 3's because of this crap)

That leaves Amsoil as a Group 4, and Redline as a Group 5, oil supplier...with Royal Purple (I think) Group 3, etc.

So there's no requirement to label the oil, as the reason Mobil lost and Castrol won...was the gov has NO legal definition of 100% synthetic...in other words...simply cracking the oil (Trimming off bad parts...) counts as far as they're concerned.

So you have to actually read the MSDS, and see if its a polyolefin or an ester based lube, etc.

:(

A group 5 oil is good for around 25K miles with good filtration.....but there's not a single off the shelf filter that lasts more than about 7-8K without going to bypass mode...so a 7,500 mile change inteval with a Mobil1 filter, or a Purolater PureOne filter, (or the OEM I hear...), is about as far as practical unless you get one of those canister filtration set-ups instead, etc.

Group 3 is still very good oil...but, it WILL result in measureable wear...unlike a Group 5 oil.

Group 5's are expensive though...so, its a war.

You know whats cool, I'm really starting to understand your replys now. I'd like to give this synthetic stuff a try in my X, just not my 302. How many changes does it take to remove most of the standard oil in the block? Also, being that I don't like changing oil in mid winter, even in my heated garage, what's involved in a filter-only change, is there a way I can work this to carry me throuh to March? I've been lucky so far, we've been having alot of 60's temps up to this point. When you remove a filter, a certain amount of oil is lost, about how much do you need to replenish? What is the filter and synth. oil of choice for your X? And finally at 1000 miles per week, what is the oil change plan that I want to follow? Right now, I'm doing a change every 5000 miles. I did stop using Fram filters due to the neg. feedback I read on this site, and now use the NAPA filter made by Wicks, whom also makes most of the OEM filters for Ford, at least that's what I'm told.

How many changes does it take to remove most of the standard oil in the block?

i believe its 3 changes, but i could be wrong

You could power flush it...but why bother?

You can just add the synthetic and be done with it....they are compatible.

The old will come out on the next change....X's don't hold much oil to start with.....you are talking about a few stray oz.

:D

The Purolater PureOne filter and the Mobil1 oil filters did well, and are made to last longer than most of the other one's out there. I don't think they would work for a 10 k mile interval...but they do make it to 7.5 k alright.

So at 1,000 miles/week, that's 7.5 weeks between changes.

Do the oil and filter at one time, its easier, and the lives coincide close enough.

In answer to the other que...you CAN plumb in a remote filter...and have it able to flip end UP, so the oil drains out for changing.

:D

Actually - at 1,000 miles/week....you are a perfect candidate for a filter remote set-up, and then you can mount a big 'ol heady duty cannister set instead of the off the shelf units...get some Redline Group 5, and leave it in more like 15-20K.

:D

The first synthetics did not destroy the rubber seals by swelling and softening them...they didn't hurt them at all.

Cars that NEEDED the seals to swell to seal properly leaked as a result of the oil not attacking the rubber, etc.

After about a year, the synthetics simply added a swelling agent...which has been in general use since the '80's began.

So - there was some seal leakage about 2-3 decades ago....and that's it from that.

Of course, some older engines get clogged with precipitated additive packages and coked oil, from dino juice....and these clogs sometimes worked like stop leak.

When synthetics were swapped in...the deposits and sludge were driven back into suspension and removed on the following change out, etc...unclogging the journals, and or leaks, etc.

Some new engines (Mini Cooper, Corvette, etc...) essentially port and polish the engines, so there is no break in period...and these engines come with Mobil1 from the factory.

Otherwise, the idea is you break in the engine with good 'ol dino juice, and when the parts are as worn out as you'd like, you swap in the synthetic, and the wear stops.

:D

One caveat...Mobil1 finally caved in when they lost their attempt to make Castrol, and other oil makers claiming to sell 100% Full Synthetic oils, actually make 100% Full Synthtic Oil.

So Castrol for example sold a Group 3 oil, as a Full Synthetic...whereas Mobil1 had always been a Group 5...but Castrol was killing them on price.
So Mobil said F-it...we can play that game too...and they stopped making Group 5 synthetic motor oil...and dropped Mobil1 to a Group 3 too, to stay price competitive. (ALL the "Full Synthetics" on the shelves from the major brands are now just Group 3's because of this crap)

That leaves Amsoil as a Group 4, and Redline as a Group 5, oil supplier...with Royal Purple (I think) Group 3, etc.

So there's no requirement to label the oil, as the reason Mobil lost and Castrol won...was the gov has NO legal definition of 100% synthetic...in other words...simply cracking the oil (Trimming off bad parts...) counts as far as they're concerned.

So you have to actually read the MSDS, and see if its a polyolefin or an ester based lube, etc.

:(

A group 5 oil is good for around 25K miles with good filtration.....but there's not a single off the shelf filter that lasts more than about 7-8K without going to bypass mode...so a 7,500 mile change inteval with a Mobil1 filter, or a Purolater PureOne filter, (or the OEM I hear...), is about as far as practical unless you get one of those canister filtration set-ups instead, etc.

Group 3 is still very good oil...but, it WILL result in measureable wear...unlike a Group 5 oil.

Group 5's are expensive though...so, its a war.

Hello, Thank-you for your report..about the difference on the group oils...No wonder the mileage on the Mobil 1 has been reducing everytime, from 25,000, to 15,000, and now 7,000 miles between changes.

Start using Mobil 1 from the time they were available in Hawaii...still a believer! ..........Aloha

[QUOTE=TJTJ]You could power flush it...but why bother?

Actually - at 1,000 miles/week....you are a perfect candidate for a filter remote set-up, and then you can mount a big 'ol heady duty cannister set instead of the off the shelf units...get some Redline Group 5, and leave it in more like 15-20K.

Alright, now I'm getting stoked here, who makes a remote filter unit that will fit my X. I must admit that taking that access plate off first to get at the filter adds time, even though it's less than 5 minutes, I like to keep things simple. Where would I mount it? If I'm changing oil every 7k instead of 5, is there any real need to change to synth? If a remote unit would allow the longer changes, than yes I can see the advantage, otherwise I'm not sure. I've seen those remote filter kits in the Ford SVO catalog for Mustangs/Cobras.

I use a 2004 supercharged se where I work and have had minimal problems with it. It has 60K on it and the worse problem I have come across is a front pad brake replacement. The only other thing I have had a problem with is the airbag warning light coming on. That was a simple fix though. All in all the xterra has been bullet proof. I work at a news station and most of our fleet is now composed of xterras. Most of the older models '02-'03's all have over 150k miles on them with very little problems whatsoever. I think our oldest unit almost has 200k on it and the only problem it had on it was a broken timing belt that was overdue for its 110k mile service anyway. All and all they are very reliable vehicles. We drive these vehicles very hard everyday and put 30K+ on them a year. The fleet manager was very impressed with their total lack of repair bills as compared to our old chevy blazers that were in the shop every month. I would really recommend buying one if you need a solid, reliable low maintenance vehicle.

i think what cuases the seals to leak is when people try go to sythetic on a higher mileage vehicle OR if they go from regular to synthetic back to regular.......thats what all the guys on the Supra forum were saying